1GR-FE rebuild

Someone hack a block in half and let us know how thick those liners really are.

 

Per the suggestion by @Torspd, I contacted LC Engineering. They said I should get .040" over. They did stress a good machine shop that knows what they are doing due to how thin they are.

 

Well that is valuable news. Glad my memory served you well.

 

Just a small update. I finally have the block back from the machine shop. I will add more later after work.

 

That is a good start!

 

Alright ladies and gentlemen, the long awaited time has came! I have the block back and it is time to put her back together. If I remember how and not forgot to get need parts.

I will let you in on a little secret,
The block can be bored. I have bored the stock block .5mm over to a bore size of 94.5mm. It brings the CC's up to 3998. It makes me excited for it to be a true 4.0. sorry, it's the little things that make me happy sometimes.
The block has a captured sleeve that is the spiny type. (Posted at the top of this page) I have been told that it can go 1mm over or .040". But at least we now have confirmation of being able to bore the stock block.
I will try to get the crank installed tonight. Here are a couple of pics to drool over.








Oh, and before you say it, I know using the calipers is not the best way to measure cylinder diameter. It's all I have.

 

I have the bearing next to the OEM bearing. Don't panic like I did. The after market bearings are the right ones and size. The factory at one point updated the bearing size and supercedes. The after market companies base there bearings off the new size as well. When looking at the OEM bearings you can see the micro growing that is to help retain oil on the bearing surface. The new bearing I sent out to Polydyn to have a polymer ceramic coating put on to help act as a dry lube on dry starts and initial start up. (As per a recommendation from @Torspd ) The price was about $96 or so, that includes $22 return shipping. I had them do my main bearings and rod bearings.

 

Sexy

 

With the help of my friend, the crankshaft is in. It feels really good to be making forward progress, instead of dead stand still. Time for a celebratory Scotch with my friend.

Here are my garage helpers for the evening. Need to give credit due where credit is due.

*Disclaimer* this pic was taken after an 11 hour work day and two Scotch's. She might stab me.

 

I know that you're getting a sense of relief and motivation. Doing well my friend.

 

There is something so satisfying looking at freshly machined metal. I guess it's really the anticipation of what is coming.

 

Thank you sir!

 

On tonight's episode we have rings, pistons and rods.
Disclaimer: I failed to take good pictures tonight.
I started off in a unusual order. I installed the wrist pin keeps on one side of the pistons. I then lubricated the small end of the rods and wrist pins. I then assembled them and install the second keeper. I move on the rings after than. After opening that packages, I placed them out into piles of top, 2nd and oil control. I placed each ring in the cylinder and pressed it down using the piston top. (Hence strange order )
This makes sure the ring is level and straight. The measured the gap with a feeler gauge. I took a flap file to the edges of the ring gap to adjust it to the desired gap size. I set the end gap to the larger side of factory spec. It was a recommendation due to known week ring lands and my engine being supercharged. (Hopefully the aftermarket piston makers took that into consideration) I then installed the oil control ring in three stages. It's three parts. Then the 2nd and then the top rings. WOW, that took up a large amount of time! It's not hard work, just tedious work. LOL! At that point I decided to call it a night. That and my garage help was taking a personal night for shenanigans with Friends, so I did not have anyone to hold the block steady when torquing the rod bolts.
The piston I believe are "Safety pistons" brand. I got them from LC Engineering, their Street pistons, not forged.
The rings are Hastings
The rods are Molnar forged chromemoly H-beam rods.

 

Wow that's crazy..

Really making me worried about my cats, I have an 05 and they've probably had a rough life, lots of -30 cold starts and me not letting the truck warm up (volunteer firefighter...) to get to calls.

I've had a cat engine light for a while now but I kinda just ignored it, uh should I be worried lol. How do you prevent this??

 

To start I have the 3* cam gears, I'm not sure if I have mentioned that. I would need to find out more info, but the cam gears add extra over lap of the valves. Good for performance, but may be why it sucked the cat dust into the engine. I will say the long you run bad cats the higher the risk of them starting to come apart.

 

How long were the gears on before the issue? You got me nervous now, I've had them on for about 20k.

 

About that for me too. The cam gears did not cause the cats to fail. It was a bad cat that caused the rebuild. The cam gears helped the dust get into the engine. I'm still going to put the cam gears in on assembly.

 

I’ve lost more sleep over wondering if that cam tensioner bolt that’s torqued to 14# is going to hold even though I went back in and lock-tite it than my valves are sucking in cat dust.