1GR-FE rebuild

I stated off this morning by double checking the clutch, pressure plate and flywheel. The pressure plat is sitting flat all the way around. The clutch disk is making proper contact to the flywheel and the pressure plate. @Torspd I removed the spark plugs to spin the motor over as I watched the flywheel spin. I do not see any lateral movement. I then removed the pressure plate and flywheel. I see nothing abnormal. After not finding any wrong with the clutch and flywheel I spent a long, slow day of removing the supercharger, belts assembly, engine belt and accessories. I fished the wire harness from the cab to the engine bay so I can pull the harness with the engine. I drained the oil, it looked dark for only having about 15 miles on it. I still seen the metallic substance in the oil. I took a couple of pictures today, they are ok at best. I decided with the multiple tedious little things at added up to get the engine ready to pull was not worth visually documenting. I will add the pics in a separate post. They are on my phone, so give me a couple of minutes.

Another thing I checked was I had a friend spin the out put of the t-case with a drill as I had a rod placed as a fixed point of reference to the input shaft of the trans. I did not see any movement to indicate a bent input shaft.

If I forgot something I did today, I will add it as I remember. I will most likely wait till next weekend to do anything else on Frankenstein's Monster.

 

The pics

 

Sounding like run-out was good. Very odd. Dowel pin could have been could have been the culprit.

It just seems odd that this was after the additive was added.

 

Don't want to sound like a DebbieDowner......

You oil seems to have yellow or brassy tinge to the color. Could this be from the crankshaft/piston rod journal bearings?

 

Inconclusive due to camera white balance probably.

I'm surprised with that much glitter in the oil the motor showed no symptoms of a failing bearing or something.

 

Possible.

Although, with a super charger boosting cylinder pressures, the journal bearings will be supporting increased loads. The oil film between the crank/piston rod could be too thin to support the increased load allowing metal to metal contact releasing brass colored flakes.

Just a thought. More will come as the engine is disassembled.

I'm always interested in determining/understanding the root cause of a failure.

 

I have honestly never pulled the harness out from the cab, in all of the swaps that I have done. Interesting to see it done.

 

Additive? The engine went south during the last 5k-5.5k miles. I just had to put the high end oil anyways to I could the drive truck home from work. I decided to take a picture of the oil that only had 15 miles on it.

The oil that I just put in has a green hue to it by design.

 

Agreed, but looking at the first two pics of the oil it could just be a lighting change. My thinking is if it ate far enough into the journal bearings for 6 qts of oil to change color, you'd get a severe knock.

Looking forward to more pics!

 

There was 5 maybe 6 connectors at the ecu and the junction box and one clip to hold it to the bracket on the inside. Then there was power, ground and I think 3 connections and under hood fuse box.

 

Could have sworn that you said that you had put in Molylube recently. Couldn't think of the name, by the time I had typed that.

I feel like I see that you only added that to help get it home now.

 

This is always how I pull them. Disconnect from inside and pull the whole harness and grommet from the firewall. A lot easier to disconnect and reconnect sensors on the stand.

 

Well...... hoping you only lost the journal bearings.

It maybe possible to wrangle in new journals without a full disassembly.

 

It can be done. That'd be a "get you by for a short while" fix.

 

It was Liquid Moly brand engine oil. Nexgen was the model of the engine oil. https://products.liqui-moly.us/oils/molygen-new-generation-sae-5w-30-1.html
My friend started working for them so I got represent. lol.

 

It depends on the extent of the damage. The journal bearings are made of softer material than the crankshaft. If the crankshaft isn't scored........then only journals are needed.

Anyhow, this is all speculation.

As the OP disassembles the engine, I'm sure more will be shared regarding damage and needed repairs.

 

Ohhh. OK.

Agreed. And trust the statement that I have made some shady stuff work.

 

This is how normal people do it.

 

same, i jsut disconnected everything from the engine and shoved everything over to the pass side somewhere

 

To the guys that have replaced the engine, did you have to remove the hood to get the engine out?