1st Gen A/C System Replacement How-To (Seized Compressor)

Doubt too much oil. Probably like 90 and pretty humid. Using a cheap little mechanical thermometer I got at autozone.

I’m reading that it should be between 44 and 50 arong 90 degrees outside. Idling at 45 right now.

 

Sounds about perfect!

 

So according to Denso's site:

Here:

http://www.denso-am.com/products/au...-compressors/practical-tip-on-compressor-oil/

So since I am doing a full rebuild with a completely flushed system, I am just good to install my compressor as is?

 

You might want to double check by dumping it out anyways. That's what I did at least. I would rather not find out the hard way that it wasn't filled or was underfilled.

 

Also, if you are replacing other parts, make sure to follow the FSM on how much oil to put into the new parts.

 

I don't have the FSM to refer to unfortunately, only a Haynes manual and this thread lol. I'm doing this Friday finally though, finally ready after months of damn research.

 

PM me and I'll email it to you

 

Halfway through the job. So far the following hiccups have occurred. Snapped one of the condenser mount bolts (those goddamn 10mm ones Toyota loves, and the mounting bolt for the discharge hose to the condenser. Will drill out and tap the one, and bought a new hose for the other. Evap, condenser, all lines, compressor, and drier are all out at least. Removed the manifold from the compressor and found it bone dry. I wonder if it is because it hasn't run for 3 years or if it sprung a leak and that cause detonation.

 

@Dirty Pool Since you are pretty in depth on the things going on in these trucks, what is the circle indentation on the ac manifold? I can take a photo tonight. It looks like it can potentially access the compressor, mine was filled with mud.

This is the thing:

 

That's the over pressure relief valve or blow off valve. It's just a safety valve and in normal practice does not open. I would not be too concerned about crud on the outside unless it's compressor oil type crud or there is evidence of crud on the inside of the manifold. I would likely just leave it till the over all leak testing and put a good eyeball on it then. I don't recall if Toyota sells just the valve but a Denso replacement can be had for around $10.
Make sure the bores for the line connections are spotless and free from any pitting, scratches or dings where the line o-rings will slide/seat.

 

Awesome, yeah I was just going to clean it up with some soap and water and a nylon brush so it wasn't still disgusting but wanted to see if there was a way to inspect it at all. But it looked like just mud from wheeling on it and nothing else.

 

Well this project took me to my fucking limit. After two snapped bolts (one I just re drilled and tapped in the body) I replaced the evap, expansion valve, compressor, condenser and drier and was doing finally assembly only to find the nut on line from the drier to the condenser was stripped. Finally got it all done tonight oiled and all. Put the belts on and it’s ready for recharge.

Unfortunately I can’t charge it till next week and I have a camping trip this weekend so I pulled the ac fuse just in case so I don’t accidentally run it with no charge. I talked to a couple people and the general consensus said this should be okay. From what I can tell since there is no pressure on the system the low pressure switch wouldn’t kick in the compressor anyway but I figured I would do this to be safe just in case. Stoked to hopefully have this project behind me.

 

Damn, I guess I'll consider myself lucky that I didnt run into any of those problems. It sounds like maybe whoever last worked on your AC system really fucked it up. Fingers crossed this is the end of your endeavors!

 

God I hope so. Good call on dumping the oil out, only got around 95 cc's out, put 129 cc's of UV dyed back in.

 

Yup youll be good. When my first one started seizing thats what I did. Windshield vent position triggers the ac compressor as well even without turning on the ac. Pulling that 10amp AC fuse guarantees no power.

 

Yup I think you told me that when it originally went on me because I was stumped that my AC was running in the dead of winter. I really hope when I charge it next week the pressure holds and I will finally have working ac again. Gonna be soooo nice for those 90* days crawling on the trails.

 

This posting is extremely well done. I have a 2000 5VZFE 4x4 extended cab and followed these instructions. I successfully did it thanks to all the info contained here. Having just completed this a few days ago, here are some thoughts from the perspective of a novice mechanic and first time AC repair person.
Dont throw any of the old parts away until you are completely finished. Case in point the compressor. A new one comes without the manifold cover-----the part that the hoses attach to. The only way to get a new one is to go to Toyota and pay about 170. Use the one off the old compressor. It is easy to remove, clean and reuse.
I purchased Four Seasons compressor hoses from Rock Auto. THey did not look like OEM so I returned them and purchased GPD hoses. GPD were not even close in fitting. After some hassle from Rock Auto, they refunded one and would not refund the other. Both were waaaaay off. In my opinion you should go with OEM. I ended up reusing the OEM that came off originally. Toyota wanted about 150 per hose.
I did buy the GPD aluminum high pressure hose that goes to from the condenser to the evaporator. It fit perfectly. I probably could have used the old one but it was pretty worn.
I purchased the Kozyvacu manifold gauge set and pump from Amazon. It worked fine. Make sure all fittings are snug. Here is the link:

$120 Kozyvacu AUTO AC Repair Complete Tool Kit - 1-Stage 3.5 CFM Vacuum Pump, HVAC Manifold Gauge Set, Hoses, and Accessories, Ideal for Automotive, Mini Split, and Refrigeration Applications (KZTA350F)

https://www.amazon.com/Kozyvacu-Com...0358&sr=sr-1&keywords=kozyvacu+auto+ac+repair
I used oil with dye in it and added dye to the freon. Maybe overkill, not really sure if you need to do it with both.
I had a hard time getting the freon to go into the system. Maybe because it was cold outside and I didn't shake the cans? It went in eventually once the compressor kicked on.
I bought all DENSO parts.
Hope this helps....Thanks again

 

Quick update, saw some seepage on my drier. I’m hoping that the bolts just weren’t tightened enough or I had to bend the drier in a funky position to get it in and that’s why it’s leaking. Still need to look. Hoping I can fix without a full discharge and recharge.

 

Subbing. Are you still happy with the UAC kit?

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=9821436&cc=1357589&jsn=381&jsn=381&jsn=381

 

my A/C may be on the fritz ... Toyota would say 'this is normal'
had a strange rattle coming from behind the dash after running it on the highway a couple weeks ago
but only when accelerating, need to do some more trial and error when weather warms back up
have only had to have it leak checked and recharged once in 2 decades (about 7yrs ago)
I usually only use it on the highway when the windows rolled up
who is the resident A/C specialist here?
... may also have slight loss of acceleration power (more than normal with A/C running)