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1st Gen A/C System Replacement How-To (Seized Compressor)

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by geodude, Aug 31, 2013.

  1. May 12, 2019 at 8:29 AM
    #101
    CS_AR

    CS_AR Well-Known Member

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    Everything but the driveshaft. B03A - 410
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  2. May 12, 2019 at 9:51 AM
    #102
    CS_AR

    CS_AR Well-Known Member

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    I wouldn't say, specialist. Though I've done a number of system replacements over the years. I've collected the gauges and vacuum pump required to do the job. Its all in the tools and taking the time to deal with little details around everything else besides a compressor. A few years ago I had to replace the compressor and related parts on an F-150. It would have cost roughly $700 to get the job done at a shop. So I spent that on the parts and A/C service tools to do that first job. It was a good investment after that first tool purchase. I had to learn the hard way that parts store gauges are not so good.

    The biggest problem that I've had over the years is with leaking Schrader valves that I get a parts stores. They seem to work for one time. I've learned to replace the Schrader valves when I have the system evacuated for some reason. It is not fun to see your perfect A/C service job land in the soup because a Schrader valve starts leaking just after the charge. I'll be seeking out some Toyota Schrader valves for this job. They may not be any different than the parts store products. But I will feel better about it.

    If I find any type of contamination in the old compressor or line, it gets a new Denso evaporator.

    There is a lot of good information on here about A/C system R and R.
     
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  3. May 12, 2019 at 10:11 AM
    #103
    CS_AR

    CS_AR Well-Known Member

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    Is it still cooling like you think it should?

    Not saying this is for everybody, but roughly 5 years ago, I flushed the system and replaced the Schrader valves dryer, some o-rings and changed the compressor oil on my a couple of my Nissans. I know the compressors are getting old and do not pump like a new one after 220,000+ miles. Though they still cool great. I have this idea that if you change the dryer and compressor oil after 10 years, it heads off problems.
     
  4. May 12, 2019 at 10:43 AM
    #104
    CyborgMan92

    CyborgMan92 Well-Known Member

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    Definitely will save this for later, gotta check mine this summer.
     
  5. May 12, 2019 at 11:36 AM
    #105
    CS_AR

    CS_AR Well-Known Member

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    From the 2000 FSM page AC-4

    INSPECT REFRIGERANT PRESSURE WITH MANIFOLD
    GAUGE SET
    This is a method in which the trouble is located by using a manifold
    gauge set. Read the manifold gauge pressure when these
    conditions are established.
    Test conditions:
    - Temperature at the air inlet with the switch set
    at RECURC is 30 – 35 °C (86 – 95 °F)
    - Engine running at 1500 rpm
    - Blower speed control switch at ”HI” position
    - Temperature control dial on ”COOL” position
    HINT:
    It should be noted that the gauge indications may vary slightly
    due to ambient temperature conditions.

    I use a chart like the one in this link.

    http://rechargeac.com/how-to/ac-system-pressure-chart

    Opinion: I think these A/C all-in-one DIY recharge kits have sent a lot of older compressors to an early grave. While they get the system working again, they come with a number of risks. They only monitor the low side. The users have no experience with A/C systems and the need for oil and what happens when getting atmospheric air into the system. I've noticed with charging older Calsonic systems, the high side will be too high while the low side is showing ok or a bit low. If you can't see the high side with your gauge, you have no idea what is happening. Then you overcharge the system. It either triggers the high-pressure switch to shut down the system on hot days from too much pressure and it will shorten the life of the compressor from being overcharged. For those older units, I'm more concerned with the high side number going too high than the low being too low.

    The all-in-one kits are ok if you are just trying to recharge a system to make it through the summer knowing you will need some serious service sooner or later or to get the car ready to get rid of it.

    Through the years, I've come to know some guys who work for some of the "big box" parts stores. From time to time they say to me "we work here and we won't even buy that stuff". You only use it when you are getting rid of the car.
     
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  6. Jun 30, 2019 at 11:44 AM
    #106
    CS_AR

    CS_AR Well-Known Member

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    The UAC kit worked out great. I flushed the evaporator and kept it along with the original expansion valve. Since there was no evidence of shrapnel or particles contaminating the system, I kept the work to "under the hood" components.

    The only complaints so far are from passengers requesting that I turn up the temp from them being too cold. I had to check the temp this afternoon at 1 PM at 87F to see how things are working.

    AAAC_04_Temp_Check_b51e0ffa96574dba8934ef94eee06a2962179400.jpg
     
    cruiserguy likes this.
  7. Jun 30, 2019 at 12:35 PM
    #107
    Shortman5

    Shortman5 Well-Known Member

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    Was the is idle? With recirculation? In shade or sunlight?

    Mine rarely gets to 40 unless it’s cloudy and I’m cruising. It’s usually around 45 degrees. I think the black paint sucks up a lot of heat too.
     
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  8. Jun 30, 2019 at 12:37 PM
    #108
    CS_AR

    CS_AR Well-Known Member

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    At idle. Recirc was on. Fan next to high setting. In 1 PM CT sunlight 87F. Truck color is gold.
     
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  9. Jun 30, 2019 at 12:51 PM
    #109
    Shortman5

    Shortman5 Well-Known Member

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    I need to get mine flushed and refilled. I screwed something up.
     
  10. Sep 23, 2019 at 3:49 PM
    #110
    hemitruk

    hemitruk Old man , young boi truk

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    Excellent write up op .
    Got new clamp for line going to evap . In pic can see metal clip holding clamp together and on top 2 holes to access tool to push clip in to release clamp . I used electrical terminl tool to push in clip

    Old clamp was still good but for $7 I just will replace

    20190923_123222.jpg
     
    Last edited: Sep 24, 2019
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  11. Oct 8, 2019 at 4:52 PM
    #111
    Phessor

    Phessor Hiding Out!

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    Thank you for this post, it was invaluable to my recent project.
     
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  12. Apr 15, 2020 at 3:05 PM
    #112
    spinyard

    spinyard Well-Known Member

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    Anyone have the part # for the oem Schrader valves?
     
  13. Jun 18, 2020 at 6:35 AM
    #113
    CS_AR

    CS_AR Well-Known Member

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    Just to check in, it has been over a year and the UAC kit is still going strong.
     
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  14. Jun 21, 2020 at 10:08 PM
    #114
    Yucel

    Yucel Well-Known Member

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    if I am only replacing the condenser, do I still need to put in oil?
     
  15. Jun 21, 2020 at 10:12 PM
    #115
    hemitruk

    hemitruk Old man , young boi truk

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    Check 1st post .Explains how much for each component
     
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  16. Jun 22, 2020 at 12:24 AM
    #116
    Sebz13

    Sebz13 Coconut Expert

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    a dropped one and a rusty 4wd one.
    how does one examine the evap core? thinking of doing what you did.
     
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  17. Jun 22, 2020 at 4:25 AM
    #117
    CS_AR

    CS_AR Well-Known Member

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    The first part of the thread has steps to remove and replace the evap core.

    Here's a video on removing the evap core. I got lucky when I flushed the system and didn't find any contamination in the system from the old compressor that seized up. The old evap core is still working very well. I may pull the cover and clean it.

    https://youtu.be/QAf5QFtG6TU
     
  18. Jun 30, 2020 at 4:12 AM
    #118
    Sebz13

    Sebz13 Coconut Expert

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    a dropped one and a rusty 4wd one.
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  19. Jun 30, 2020 at 4:33 AM
    #119
    Sebz13

    Sebz13 Coconut Expert

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  20. Jun 30, 2020 at 4:33 AM
    #120
    Sebz13

    Sebz13 Coconut Expert

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    a dropped one and a rusty 4wd one.
    @CS_AR
     

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