1st Gen Lunchtable Thread - General Discussion

The 2.7 with that front diff tube in the way makes a bit of a mess too. I just crack it loose after draining the oil pan completely and let it drain into the catch pan. Wipe everything off with a rag and its good to go.

Funny that that area of the truck was totally rust free when I got it.

 

The 2.7 I always removed with a plastic bag in hand and you could catch all the oil and the filter no problem. Don't reach from the front, reach from behind the rack.

 

Just to make the 2.7 guys feel better.. even on the 21s the filters still in the same spot... which is pretty much the spot the 20r was at..


the V6 oil changes make no mess though..

 

I found that trying to mitigate the mess while spinning it off almost always resulted in a bigger mess. For me anyways. I just stick a claw wrench on a 10" extension and go up between the diff tube and the crossmember to crack it loose.

 

If it aint broke dont fix it I guess. 1gr is by far the best imo. All I need to catch the drippage is an empty water bottle held under the little drain nipple under the filter.

 

That looks like fun, they built 6 of them up here and all they do is create more traffic.

 

I'm actually going to go do a oil change on the BMW right now since it's back together and running

 

Just got some prints of that blue M3 I took pictures of and damn. Printed in Kodak Pro Endura it's almost like looking at the real paint. That Kodak paper is metallic and the colors are stunning. Looking at it in different lights reflects and shimmers like the paint.

 

Kodak still exists?

 

Yeah, they're still really big in the picture reproduction industry. Their printers, inks, and papers are great. Also traditional film is still very much a thing in photography and film making. Kodak isn't going anywhere

 

Go in through the wheel well to get to the 3.4 oil filter, super easy once you do that.

 

Step one, remove engine. Step two put in new engine with fresh filter.

 

Gotta disconnect the battery before step one.

 

I'm using Mercedes shop manual style instructions. They assume you know the minutia and just give overall steps toward the goal. I'm not even kidding, go read a section from a Merc manual, it's like it comes missing pages

 

Do poly bushings need to be torqued on the ground? Or is that a rubber bushing thing?

My UCAs are squeaking like fucking banshees the last few days, bushings were put in a month ago and silent until now.

I realized I torqued them while still in the air, wondering if it would loosen them up, cycle them up and down a bit and then retorque on the ground.

Or if that won't matter and maybe it's the arms...the sleeves were a bit pitted inside from water damage when we took the old bushings out.

 

It can't hurt, but technically the bushing sleeve should spin within them unlike rubber ones which are vulcanized. It might make a difference though.

 

Yeah last weekend when I had my truck in stands, the noise went away for a short while afterward but came back. Made me think there's something up with the bushings in the sleeves.

The arm sleeves were a little pitted inside too from water getting in them, was told I should just replace the UCAs entirely next time.

If that may be contributing to the issue then maybe I'll just focus on doing that instead. If I have to take them off again I'm just going to replace the arms for good measure

 

the d3 is better anyway

 

No.