1st Gen Lunchtable Thread - General Discussion

What kind of roller did you use? I worked two summers rolling fiberglass glass decks at boat factories. After the hull was glassed using a fiberglass chopper and dried, then I would glass in the wooden deck using sheets of finishing glass. Then afterward we would buff down any imperfections and glass it again to be smooth before installing the upper rail.

I worked one summer building 21 and 26 ft sailing yachts. They called them cruising yachts. Then a couple of summers later I worked building bass boats. Back then I could always find work building boats to get summer job money.

The yacht company had their act together for their employees. They worked four ten-hour days instead of five eights. They figured they would lose two hours each day of worker productivity each day for setup, clean-up, and break time. They produced more output with the four ten-hour days. The workers had 3 day weekends.

I used this type of roller to penetrate the glass cloth to get the air bubbles out.



The bass boats looked like this. Kind of primitive and simple compared to the monster bass boats of today.



This is a picture of the 26' sailing yacht. That mermaid was an absolute bitch to get shot with gel coat and then glassed in without any bubbles. A bubble would cause the gel coat to crack or break when pulling the boat from the mold.

 

As it turns out, you don’t really need one.

LCA bushings are a bit tight but I could’ve found a way.

Leafspring bushings were like a hot dog in a hallway

 

I think everything is ready for the truck after it gets out of the shop.

still don’t think I’ve got to the hard part yet.

 

If you saw how I glassed that deck in, you would be extremely offended by how awful I did haha. I could not for the life of me get the recipe for peanut butter down. I had a can of fumed silica/Cab-o-Sil but it didn’t do a good job at thickening so I just cut up the chop strand into little pieces and mixed it in.

I was using Polyester Laminating Resin with the curing agent and the catalyst. I resin’d the bottom of the deck boards and glassed the exposed parts. I used Great Stuff to fill in the gaps.

The are bubbles were a pain. The more I tried to roll it flat, I just deformed the chop strand and stretched it. Then again it was the cheap Amazon stuff.

How hard is it to sand it all smooth? I was just gonna put some kind of flooring over it. I bought marine top coat to paint over the glass.

 

It's so easy taking pics of truck parts

Love the new bushings

 

Mine have all been used a little

 

New engine or new oil pump? It's just a simple way to aid in priming the oil system.

 

I see you too like buying a winch bumper and no winch

 

My OME springs for my 4Runner are ready for pride month

 

Yeah just haven't decided, which is a poor excuse. Between the M8-S or a Zeon. Was hoping memorial day sale would pop up but nada.

 

Gold Country is the foothills of the Sierra-Nevada, sorta like the boonies of Northern California.

 

I understand haha

 

We would use grinders (same as car buffers before orbital) with a sanding pad that was like rough sandpaper. We could float the grinder over ruff spots in the decking and smooth it out similar to how a body shop would smooth out Bondo. It created a lot of fiberglass dust and needed to wear face protection.

Sometimes we would need to go back and repair a spot to make sure the deck and hull would be watertight so no wood would be exposed when people were spilling water in the boat.

We used fiberglass mat for most of the deck finishing when we were glassing the rail to the deck. Some lower-cost boats would screw the rail to the deck. That looked ok, but the boat would be noisy (creeks and pops) when running through any type of rough water. We would wet the deck with resin, then lay down the mat to soak it up, and then use a paintbrush to put on the final covering.

After we got the deck smooth and the rail mounted, we would install some type of waterproof carpet


https://youtu.be/S1RWEGhuQqw

 

That LC tho

 

Huh, so a Dyno sets a code for poor road surface and apparently going over 160mph sets a code for plausibility of going too fast lol. I wish it had a code for danger to manifold.

 

At least we all have parts that exist to take pics of

 

It's like buying a generator for a house, spending a chunk of money on something you hope you don't need.

 

Warn Winch 12,000 Pounds & Warn Grill Guard
https://classifieds.ksl.com/listing/64153603

If it wasnt steel cable