1st Gen Lunchtable Thread - General Discussion

What are ypu planning on using the trailer for? Drivinrg around sf with that will suck

 

God No. I will never take a trailer into San Francisco, It'll be parked at my house in the suburbs. I'll be using it for my business as storage for my tools, wagons, and horns when I do cross-country trips to pickup stock.

 

Make sure it doesnt go bye bye with all your stuff in it, but looks good for a mass cadillac horn extraction.

 

Apparently my hometown is #2 in the country for auto theft, never would've known. Fortunately I can use the Ol' Crapmobile to block it in my driveway.

When traveling, I'll have it nice and secure. King pin locks, chains, puck lock on the door, the whole nine yards.

 

Wind resistance is the biggest issue. Like I said above, don't use overdrive.

The planatary gear assemblies is weak in the older 1st gens. Stay out of OD and you can tow it anywhere.

I have a (wife) 98 with the 2.7 and auto. It tows similar to the 3.4. just not very fast.

That trailer axle should have the E brake flanges so you can add them later.

With buying a controller, drums, and baking plates you will be around the $325 range. The wiring will be another $60.

You will need the RV plug for the truck.

 

Pack of angry honey bagers inisde or gtfo

 

I've towed a few things with my truck, and I always try to stay at 55, 60 at the most and always have Overdrive off. It's never given me a problem. Tundra brakes really do help.

I'm going to go rent a U-Haul 5x8 and try it out for a weekend, see if I like it and if the truck handles well. Maybe do my PNW roadtrip with it. If it all checks out, I'll go buy my own. I have a buyer for my Civic already, so that'll cover the cost of the trailer.

What do you think of Surge Brakes?

 

You right

 

@JKO1998 I just realized KSL is a Utah thing. Thought it was some national marketplace.

 

Nah man, Utah and places close to its borders.

 

They are great on boat trailers.

They suck when trying to back the trailer because they engauge. You have to get out and bypass them off before you can back up.

There is no adjusting them from the cab. Every load that weighs difference needs the brakes adjusted different. Electrics win in this aspect.

Surge brakes are used on trailers that don't change weight. For example boat trailers. The same boat is always on the same trailer.

 

Ah, I understand. I remember the surge brakes on the car dolly I used being very good. At least compared to the flatbed trailer I used that was unbraked.

Is adding electric trailer brakes to any trailer axle possible? I'm talking to the owner of this trailer, it's priced very well and I might go take a look at it.

https://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/for/d/cargo-trailer-5x8/6717261143.html

 

Have to look at the axle. There should be a square plate with 4 holes in it on both sides of the axle next to the leaf springs.

Look for 3600 lbs axles, almost all of them come with the flanges already welded on.

 

Ideally you want Electric over Hydraulic braking system, right? I heard there were a couple different versions of the drum brakes, and some are worse and better than others.

 

There is only one wire. What's to screw up?

 

Ah you worry too much. Electrical isn't as scary as you make it out to be.

When I converted my truck to power windows, locks, and mirrors, I literally sat down the the wiring diagrams and just began labelling every single wire. Through trial and error you find out which wire needs ground, power, signal, etc. I didn't know anything about automotive electrical beforehand.

 

Is That because you are old and this new technology confuses you?

Or are you just dumb?

 

That's what the technical term is. Electric over Hydraulic, or EOH.

 

Do you know what color you painted the crows mask?

 

I know, that's why I was asking which one is better.