1st Gen Lunchtable Thread - General Discussion

As suspected, ECT good at 80-81.

It's been idling awhile now, AC on too idling between 650 to 820 (when the compressor kicks on and off).

Looks like new bleeder screws are in order.

The Land Cruiser must've just hated sitting around for 3+ weeks.

 

Tell you what though, I'll still recommend that HF bleeder.

 

Experience is irrelevant if the inputs I'm given are worthless. Sure you can go set timing based on torque but where's the consistency if you have no safety threshold?
What I keep trying to tell you is there's no way to set up these sensors because they give garbage output. So I'm going to get widebands and let the Haltech do the filtering properly.
To your point, yes it seems that to accurately set the sensitivity table I will need to have a set of steady loads and the ability to quickly gauge the response to a change in timing advance once the proper sensors are in. The ones Toyota stuck in here infinitely grow in output with load with a peak around 6700hz; they don't suddenly spike like they're supposed to at the knock frequency

 

@Wulf

One rear leaked out fluid when undoing it (hence pulling old fluid, including the LSPV) but the other rear doesn't. I can just pull it off and clean it out but yeah I'll just replace them instead.

We'll see if they're in stock at O'Reillys.

My mom's leaving today so kind of trying to get things done.

 

Okay, you do understand you'll still have to configure the other ones right. I'm not saying there's no benefit to knock control, I'm just saying nothing good comes from improperly configured knock control as you've already learned. You should really hire a professional to configure your new sensors in your map or you're just going to walk the same line with different blinders on.

FWIW the 5vz map I sent you works with stock knock sensors just fine and that ign map has never produced any audible knock in over a year of consistent use.

 

This sentence literally makes zero sense BTW

 

Dyno setting without knock feedback is torque based. You keep expressing concern about safety. So if you want to say you've been Dyno tuning people's trucks without knock sensors then where's the consistency between the two

 

What a great deal, huh? @Area51Runner

 

I go to the dyno for the smoke tune, it doesn't take a lot of skill to make a safe tune (a step you seem absolutely determined to skip) on the street however. You're trying to treat knock sensors like a tuning tool, there's no doubt you can use them like that but it's not reliable. They're supposed to be a safety net for changing environments and conditions. And unfortunately as such they must be initially dialed in in a steady state environment to have a baseline.

 

It sounds like what you really want to do is program a ridiculous ignition map and have your knock sensors keep you in line but you're supposed to have an ignition map that's reasonable and maybe tickles the high side here and there that the knock sensor can save you in those rare cases where the high side just can't be reached due to external factors.

 

Read my edit

I did look at that map recently and it looks wholly untuned. There's almost no variation along the RPM axis and the idle region jumps 13 degrees or 20 degrees between the next cells depending on the axis

 

I don't know what to tell you there that one works and yours doesn't they don't always look clean. I think you want the Crayola rainbow gradient on every map but that's not actually what an engine always needs

 

My new map works great... As far as I can tell... But I can't tell... Because my knock sensors don't work

 

I'm well aware you can't tell, let's forget the audible knock "rattling" you drove through. That log was something out of a horror movie.

 

@Speedytech7
@treyus30

I understand you guys are running a full stand-alone?

I've tuned my own vehicles, but always had a 'base' tune to start with to make the vehicle barely drivable. Do you get that with the Haltech?

 

The long and short of that is, "kinda"

 

My Corvette is on a full painless system, and I had it taken in for a base and actual tune.

Other vehicles that got a turbo upgrade, etc I received a base tune from community (well-known) tuners. I'd hate to have to figure out injector duty, fuel pump duty, ignition timings etc all from scratch.

 

Most knowledge was from the SRT4 community where everyone throws a big ass turbo in their rig.

But the most professional I'd have to say is Justin from Freektune; big in the Mazdaspeed community as well as the Ford ST community.

 

That's kind of the world we're in there are some known safe numbers though to start with. Some people just don't like those numbers and prefer to start elsewhere entirely.


@treyus30 You know there are other ways to determine if your ignition advance is reasonable right? Have you looked into reading your spark plug ground straps, the peppering pattern will pretty much tell you if you have detonation.

 

Shit I applaud you guys for starting from scratch then