1st Gen Lunchtable Thread - General Discussion

That part really isn't as big of a deal as it's made out to be. It's the peripheral setup that's time consuming

 

Who needs AC, turn signals, and other misc. items when you can just run some of those independently

My C4 is gutted.

 

buried it in a snow drift yesterday
Worker bee today

 

@treyus30

You're running a single or dual spoolies?

I wanna see a datalog of that badboy!

 

Yes, SNP (Gabe, expert 1) loaded a base tune. The fuel was done right (overly rich and adjusts to the lambda over time), and after comms with expert 2 and expert 2's expert, I'm now being blamed for using expert 1's ignition table by experts 2 and 3. Then when I try to make it so I can fix the table myself, I'm chastised that I should try finding an expert 4 instead, even after adjusting much closer to what expert 2 and 3 recommended.

 

Thems the realities, usually a delivered base map is just a startup map. And I understand where you're coming from, it's hard to know what right and wrong when you've never done any of it before. Rock and a hard place, I'm sure you'll figure it out.

 

Went camping last night with the kiddo, and it was actually successful (last time we had to leave at ~1am because she threw a huge tantrum and kept the entire campground awake)

Was warm as hell but still some snow spots here and there, went up into the local mountains not too far from home

Dex was in heaven even though the snow was just in small 20ft patches lol






And here he is thinking he's a bear hunting salmon

 

Dual; still working on the boost control duties to get it up there. Rn it likes to top out at 8-9 due to the way I have spool assist configured

 

Without knowing too much about the Taco platform, isn't that a shit ton?

You're still just on pump gas right? Fuel upgrades for that 8-9psi?

 

Ironically this is exactly why I always prefer to find my own way to the solution, even if it takes 3x as long. Usually I find a better way to do something along the way as a result. This is one of the only times in recent history I've put my faith in "the professionals" and ofc it ends as expected. I'm a cautious individual by nature, believe it or not; I would not have knowingly done something that would compromise my engine, so I appreciate your understanding. The only reason I dismissed the pinging was because I was 90% sure you were right about the cam gear. (that's still a little mystery though)

Looking at more cross-platform maps online has shown me what good ignition maps probably look like, and I'll keep making improvements as I go and learn. (I save about 2 adjusted maps per day on average. I currently have over 50 haha)

 

5VZ all accounts seem to express they're good for 16PSI, about where it hits 420-450BHP, so I'm shooting for 14-15.
Yes just 91 pump gas. Air stays cool, AFRs stay rich, we'll be good.

I was running 7PSI a long time ago with just a piggyback, but the lag was insane because it was a big single (too big). This brings the torque down much lower which is more likely to break something, so I actually have it scaled down at lower RPM to 12PSI target

 

Its def better and cheaper. Plus Holley has good tech support and there is unlimited info on you tube. Tuning it is the fun part!

 

so much cocaine

https://www.instagram.com/reel/CrrOfQWLLD_/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

 

@Speedytech7
@Wulf

Dumb question but...in theory a speed bleeder would remain open (they have check valves) if I run a vaccuum on the end right?

Cause they open when pressure is applied to let fluid out (IE pumping brakes).

 

You still have to tighten them down when you're done

 

Oh of course, just thinking if I run enough vacuum they'll stay open.

Going to replace the screws and ensure that my brake lines are tightened down. I'm sure they are because like I said they weren't leaking and they weren't sucking in air at all where they thread together.

I hate these hard lines so much.

 

I don't think you're supposed to use vacuum with speed bleeders. Theyre design so that you can one man pump the brake to bleed. Instead of two man bleeding

 

Correct, you're not supposed to. I just figured" in case".

So much grease and oil under the engine

 

i think they still work with the vacuum bleeder but i don't remember for sure. Worst case you put a block on the brake pedal to apply a little pressure then vacuum bleed them

 

@Speedytech7 @Kwikvette I don't think my muffler gave up a weld yet but my rearmost exhaust hanger and bedside both rattle which is probably what I'm hearing. I have new hangers to weld up just keep putting it off lol