1st Gen Lunchtable Thread - General Discussion

Nope, just some Moog replacement stock lowers since my old ones had their bushings seized in the eyelets and the mounts were all cracking. I'm running SPC adjustable uppers though and I'm tubbed a lot so I had room to bring that tire toward the firewall.

 

its too wet/salty here for that, a local guy to me had his build play and tear out within 6 months.

I don't think the uni-balls in tension are going to be any better than Ball joints... maybe a Delta joint lower conversion?

 

I don't know but I did notice one thing anonymous has over the TC ones is there's a full boot kit for them now so you can seal them off. I trust TCs own investigations in regard using spherical joints though, they won't last as long as OEM but they're very cheap and easy to replace. I'd just start doing them yearly, I don't daily this truck. It's a toy and other than for wheeling and some donuts in the snow it doesn't get used in winter even.

 

Since my motor swap I'm back to dailying mine... Maybe I'll mod the LCA's again short term.

Raptor shock conversion is going to drive custom LCAs, custom Tower, custom UCAs... so making a change? to the spindle to use a better LBJ configuration seems like something I should put in my scope..

 

A lot of factors at play basically re-designing the IFS. Gonna be really cool when its all done though. Are you going to try and match the mounting the Raptor uses?

 

If you want to use the unit bearings from those trucks you might as well do an 8” diff in my opinion. I was thinking about it but don’t know if it is worth loosing RCVs. Significant torsional strength gain (60% ish by my math) in 27 vs 30 spline at the diff. Idk about the cv joints though. A 2” kit for them is about .75” wider than a 3.5” kit for us. I figure that can be made up in the unit bearing placement

for alignment you could also buy bungs and heims to weld in your uppers to give you more adjustment. My lowers are on cam eliminator plates and I set 7-7.5 caster with the uppers.

 

Yeah I have the kinematics set to be somewhere between the taco and raptor, but the "while I'm in there" scope creep is both stopping me from starting and making too much sense...

I was wondering if I should do a whole 2nd gen front sus conversion and go to 2nd gen steering rack as well... If I'm already tearing 60% of the front end off, why not go to 100% and just up spec everything now rather than having to go back and tear it all out again?

Short term I think I will modify my lowers again... I forgot I had done that.

 

I'm all too familiar with that. I have to stop myself from starting projects sometime because I know the whole I'm in there mentality will stop it from being timely.

 

and even build goals... I'm so far in I forgot I was supposed to just be a broverlander lol

I don't want to be 30-pack and send it guy

 

But it's fun!

Til your shit explodes at the most inconvenient time

 

https://www.instagram.com/reel/CwdYQU3pCNw/

 

related to other messages I was pinged in today... I'm pretty sure a GX470 or early GX460/FJC ABS/master combo would allow ATrac with relatively little wiring, and the electric booster includes check valves that limit bleed-back that should improve pedal feel to those who seek it.

and it looks to me like it would fit...

 

I would rather keep the first gen rack if I were you. Easier to replace and I've seen a lot of trashed second gen racks and tie rods compared to first gen stuff. Also easier on my brain to setup steering ackerman with the rack in the back.

Only thing that sucks about the first gen rack is the passenger side clamp and inners bend but it isn't catastrophic when they do.

 

Inners build play so damn fast for me, I actually think they are the hard limit on down travel... thought only crossed my mind to decrease the amount of "figure it out" on a front end change up like I describe above


Right now I am leaning towards using the 1st Gen Spindle, and machine a 2 part crown adapter for an inverted LBJ, and keep the rest of the 1st gen stuff otherwise.

 

Camburg makes a clevis I have to do heim inners and stock outers and I lan a fan recently. The outer starts binds right after my RCV starts getting hard to turn on droop at full lock.

There isn't enough room to do it with stock length arms though. And bump steer gets a little worse since the clevis has a different pivot point than the stock inners.

 

I have a set waiting for me to put LT arms on.

I need to measure how much they move the Pivot and see if there is a way to correct it

 

Doh

 

We going raw in this bitch

 

you'd think they'd put some kind of tracker on these things...




they found and pulled an SR-71 out of the bottom of the South China Sea in 1989 after it crashed, you'd think they could find an F-35 in our own backyard lol.

I wonder if finders keepers would apply here

 

@BartMaster1234 be like