1st Gen Lunchtable Thread - General Discussion

You sure they weren't already attached to pads? Mine were & most aftermarket pads these days do to.

 

They had a metal backing plate, but nothing seperate like the OEM ones.

 

dude that shit sucked. I would always try n keep my mouth shut, it was worse that way...

Btw got the driveshaft @mechanicjon Hagen just stopped by.

 

If your braking system got air into it because of compressing the caliper piston without opening the bleeder valve you may have a leak somewhere, possibly the caliper seals. They say you shouldn't compress the piston without opening a bleeder to help prevent pushing dirt past the seals but you're still at risk even with opening a bleeder. Your seals may just be old & hard already.

 

Yeah that's the shim. I've only seen the seperate shims with OEM pads.

 

I never bled my brakes when I replaced pads or rotors. Only when air is introduced into the system, for example when you put new brake lines.

 

When I drove my truck off the lot, I had the dealer install the TRD pads up front. I was back within aacouple of weeks if I recall - pads had fractures in them. Whatever, had them install Toyota pads and refund the cost of the TRD pads.

They tried to tell me the reason was because they were ceramic. I think the more likely explanation was I didn't know better and wasn't told that they needed to be broken in. Oh well.

Glad I found the Akebono/Brembo combination. They have served me well and i will continue to use them.

 

Serious*

 

The thing is though, I cracked the bleeder to assist in compressing one stubborn piston. It was off camber a bit and just needed the pressure behind it to be released. Somehow, someway when the bleeder was open, it sucked air in. The pedal is firm and the truck stops fine. The problem lies in the pedal hanging up a bit about halfway down the stroke when you work it while sitting in a parking lot. I dont think the issue is major, its just annyoing the piss outta me.

 

Sounds to me.like typical dealer or mechanic, put the blame on the customer or something about the part that's not logical.

My only gripe with cermaic pads is they don't do well when cold or in cold climates. They need to heat up to bite really well. But I live in sunny hot SoCal desert weather, we don't have cold weather here. My pads will get up to temp quick once I leave my house as there's a big hill to go down.

I certainly don't need ceramics pads but they last forever for me & make very little dust.

 

Oh that camber part you described is not right. Piston could be worn. Might want to check out that caliper, it may be bad. Yes air will enter into the bleeder when cracked, need to use a a catch can with a check valve like the ones they sell or just make one with a long tube with fluid at the bottom (no check valve needed) so air doesn't get sucked back in. Kind of like what Tyler posted earlier. Otherwise without a catch can, you'll need to bleed anytime you crack open the bleeder without a catch can

 

@Speedytech7 This is the page for bleeding the master cylinder in the Haynes manual for my 92 pickup. Think this process would work on my '04? Dunno if this would affect the ABS.

 

ABS makes everything a bit fuck because it can hold a huge airbubble and needs a special tool to turn it on so you can purge it too. I didn't know you had ABS, thats not fun.

 

Well there's really only two things that cause this airbubbles and leaks, so you have one or the other. Leaks aren't always external

 

Hi guys ! Just wondering my dad has a 04 taco 4x4 V6 , are the front wheel studs little shorter than the rear studs ? Just threw on some 1 1/2” spacers today

Sorry if this is a dumb question

 

quick! only $1k! lol

https://fresno.craigslist.org/cto/d/2002-toyota-tacoma-doublecab/6735112820.html

 

I think they are, from what I remember they have different part numbers

 

Check my stock still decent, not warped. So ran with those.

 

whoa guess us norcal taco hunters are fast!

 

Rock it out bud! Ace that shit!