1st Gen Lunchtable Thread - General Discussion

Is it though, you have to have the limit switches and 4WD computer to make it happen. Though you could make it switched with a hand valve if you wanted. But without doing extra work to be that way it was electronically controlled.

 

Definitely. Eventually it has to be redone over and over.

 

It uses a switch to engage the ADD after the lever has been yanked into 4wd. I don't have the book to show you right now, still watching a ranch, but the only system that negates any electronic checks and balances is jshift with manual hubs

 

The jshift with ADD still has a 4WD comp in the drivers footwell. It's what the signal from the tcase switch leads to and triggers the add and the add limit switch tells the 4WD comp to either turn on the 4x4 light or flash it if theres a failure. This is easy to look up rather than make me write BTW

 

Front driveshaft, diff, and CV's always turn all of the time on one version and the other version they only spin when in 4WD. Pretty big difference for a silly difference.
That bang sound I've been wondering what it is, yeah it's the right front CV' going out. Wouldn't happen in a fully manual system that's only seen dirt one time in the last 6 years. That CV is going out on a part time 4WD only used on the street.
That's a big deal to someone on an exceptionally tight budget like myself.

 

I think mine has a j shift t case. Idk, the whole system still confuses me as I haven't researched the set up on my truck yet or how that set up works.
I just wish I wasn't wearing out front drive parts while in 2WD is all.

 

I'm ~25 miles from Dodgers Stadium

 

Huh, never seen an ADD jshift that was missing the 4WD computer, but it looks like in the EWD the 95-97 ADD jshift just routes permission through a relay rather than a 4WD computer (which up until 2001 was just a relay bank with a timer circuit anyway). Relay cuts the ground side of the permission for the lamp and the ground side of the solenoid engagement. Simple system compared to 2001 up and their full limit switch and timer logic but still needs electrical power to function

 

after a fashion i suppose. We were talking about what system was entirely mechanical and any truck with ADD is not. But yeah yours doesn't have an ADD computer, it just has a relay that basically serves the same function minus a failure indication.

 

Why do a 2 low mod?

 

Nice to back up trailers with a manual, keeps you from being hard on the clutch

 

Don't think I've ever had that happen, on dirt the front will just slip or you could be in 2hi since its just dirt, don't really need low

 

But what would you need 2lo for? You have an auto even, that's already super easy. 4lo gives you extra traction on those surfaces, but 2lo doesnt really give you anything unless you were just scared and it was a security blanket

 

2hi solves the turning radius issue, or you can really just push through it if you aren't on pavement since something will slip and release the bind anyway. Plus you have an auto, anytime below stall speed of the TC you're multiplying torque

 

I don't know why I watch the Hoonigan project channel anymore, it used to be less fake than the actual Hoonigan channel but now they're both fake as shit and the new build and battle series is lame.

 

Because he is 16 and does what he wants

 

Wtf its been 2 year. What have i been doing with my life

 

You've gone through two jobs, you were working at a pizza joint at the beginning of this thread... that's something

 

That explains a lot, I'll back off.

 

Huh, I turned on classical piano and the cats started talking less.