1st Gen Lunchtable Thread - General Discussion

The torque tube you can get away with hex if you really wanted to.

 

So glad they changed it to a 10mm socket or jis type screw on the later years. Ive removed mine several times with no issues

 

Key with torx anything is quality bits. Harbor freight e torx will always strip shit out. Snappy, Mac, Matco, gearwrench. Those are the ones I’d use

 

About 10 years ago I was in the elevator in the Bellagio and this guy walked in. He started talking to my mother and I distinctly remember him saying he had a show on Comedy Central.

I wish I could remember who it was. Just randomly remembered that.

 

If you could remove a Honda crank pulley bolt with a 1/4 impact I will personally give the pink slip for my truck to you.

 

Well.. I’ll be back

 

*starts disassembling some strangers honda in the grocery store parking lot

 

Shhh

 

Starting to sound like a 3rd gen thread

 

If you had a spot to wedge the driver up against, in theory you could bump the starter and it would technically be using the 1/4" driver so....

 

Actually now that I remember, most of the Honda timing belts I've done I was able to just put a socket and breaker bar on the crank bolt and bump the starter to loosen it, due to the rotation of the engine. I do not recommend anyone do this unless you are positive of rotation of engine

 

Great minds something or other

 

Oof

 

This is what I use for automotive work now, retired all my IR air tools.




3/8" M12 Stubby impact is a little more powerful than the M18 3/8" Compact but I prefer M18. Plus the M12 Stubby looks funny to me & the 3/8" M18 impact is plenty strong. Pretty much the same as my IR 3/8" air impact & I used that the most when I worked at the shop.

If I could only get one impact for automotive use it would be the 1/2" M18 Mid-Torque which is what I have. I used to have the 1/2" High-Torque & I hated using that thing. Too heavy & bulky for continuous use. Damn thing was powerful though. I don't work in automotive anymore so I rarely ever need that much power anymore. Gave the High-Torque to my brother when the Mid-Torque came out.

 

What's the "mid torque" rated at?

I'm the one that asked about Milwaukee impact wrenches, and trying to figure out what 1/2" setup I should go with for my truck for on/off the trail.

 

Oof is right; for me it's the turn buckles that go out when I bash with the e-revo.

 

The link was already streched out. Finally snapped. Swapped to metal ends now.

i think the only other thing that can break now is the clutch. Which i plan to eliminate

 

G'dammit.

Friend texted me this - https://www.koreessentials.com/pages/how-it-works-gun-belts

He ordered 1 some time back and loves it; I pocket carry but this would work well for IWB.

 

Mid-Torque is rated for 600 ft/lbs max for loosening, 450 ft/lbs for tightening. That's the same as my old 1/2" IR air impact & that thing served me well. Even removed Honda crank pully bolts without the new fatty socket, well except H & F series engines sometimes. The Mid-Torque wouldn't get my 5VZ crank bolt off but I use a crank pully holder anyway & it's not often I need to remove it.

They make the Mid-Torque with a 3/8" anvil now, same size body, I'm assuming same power but I don't see the point of that model. I like 3/8" & 1/4" impacts cause of their smaller size.

I think the 1/2" Mid-Torque would be perfect for what you mentioned. It's what I carry in my truck with me sometimes. Home Depot has it on display, just saw it there today, so you can get a feel for it's size.