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1st Gen Lunchtable Thread - General Discussion

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by Speedytech7, May 31, 2018.

  1. Oct 9, 2019 at 10:37 AM
    eon_blue

    eon_blue 8" third member

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    Paging @theesotericone

    He welded an LBJ to the spindle, was field repair if I recall correctly
     
  2. Oct 9, 2019 at 10:38 AM
    eon_blue

    eon_blue 8" third member

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    I used an exacto knife to clean the dried up loctite out of the bolt threads
     
  3. Oct 9, 2019 at 10:40 AM
    BartMaster1234

    BartMaster1234 American Auto Horns

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  4. Oct 9, 2019 at 10:41 AM
    Blue92

    Blue92 Well-Known Member

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    Ditto. Gonna check em this weekend.
     
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  5. Oct 9, 2019 at 10:48 AM
    Kwikvette

    Kwikvette My 4R identifies as a Tacoma

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    Errand time.

    Good looking out Tyler, sent a message on that diff.

    I've already got manual hubs (2 sets), spindles, and axles.

    Front diff, transfer case, and transmission are the biggest items I have left.
     
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  6. Oct 9, 2019 at 10:51 AM
    BartMaster1234

    BartMaster1234 American Auto Horns

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    Haven’t found a drivetrain in car-part yet?

    Also did you get the cone nuts out with the brass drift?
     
  7. Oct 9, 2019 at 10:52 AM
    Blue92

    Blue92 Well-Known Member

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    Building on the last oneIMG_20191009_135028008_HDR.jpg
     
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  8. Oct 9, 2019 at 10:57 AM
    cruiserguy

    cruiserguy Well-Known Member

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    That one bolt had bottomed out. And you railroaded it because you knew it wasn't cross threaded because other wise how'd it get in so far? But yeah thats how we learned the reason for the longer bolts right? For the LBJs that have the dust cover with that solid spacer in it? At least I thought that's what we learned
     
  9. Oct 9, 2019 at 11:02 AM
    eon_blue

    eon_blue 8" third member

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    yeah that's right, it was that damn washer-type thing that was supposed to be on 2 of them to hold the dust cover in place...wasn't on there so that bolt bottomed out before torque could be reached, and snapped.

    When I take them out now I always put them in the exact same hole they came out of, don't mix them up so I don't forget which one has the dust boot washers and which ones don't
     
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  10. Oct 9, 2019 at 11:06 AM
    cruiserguy

    cruiserguy Well-Known Member

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    Badass if true. Not any old schmo can pull that off
     
  11. Oct 9, 2019 at 11:11 AM
    cruiserguy

    cruiserguy Well-Known Member

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    I'm just glad you said pretty descriptively what happened and what you did. I don't think anyone ever mentioned about the longer bolts in any threads.
    And what the thread locker can do if reusing the LBJ bolts(I do reuse but no threadlocker) is cause it to show a tight torque reading way prematurely as that crap builds up in the threads and has nowhere to go and it's hard and crusty and fuggerin up the torque reading. So Dan gives pretty good advice above. I didn't know there was a chart to compensate for torque specs on threadlocker
     
  12. Oct 9, 2019 at 11:15 AM
    Kwikvette

    Kwikvette My 4R identifies as a Tacoma

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    I haven't put much effort into the drive train due to my apartment hunting.

    I'll snatch one up after I get a place with a garage.

    And the hub assemblies were all pulled out last week; brass punch worked like a charm .

    20191002_101517.jpg
     
  13. Oct 9, 2019 at 11:23 AM
    JKO1998

    JKO1998 Well-Known Member

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    968DFD18-648C-43C2-A668-9E1A4E6F3058.jpg
     
  14. Oct 9, 2019 at 11:25 AM
    Uphillshunter

    Uphillshunter El Taco Diablo

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    Swapped 4x4, Twin sticks, Tundra Brakes, Bilstein 5100s, ToyTec 620# Coils, 1.5 AAL + 5 lug leaf, Pro-Comp 17x8.5, Transgo shift kit, Dual batteries

    The inside of the hubs don't need much grease. You just put a light coat of grease on them, basically where the parts slide against each other. Where you need grease is on the end of the CV axle, where it goes in to the hub.

    I used Redline CV2 grease for the light coating of grease inside the hubs, on the end of the CV axle, and also inside the boots of my CVs when I rebuilt (re-booted) them. You just need to use a decent grease that's rated for a heated application. Some of the heat from your discs is going to bleed in to your hubs.

    For the rubber O'ring on the manual hub dial, I used a waterproof o-ring seal grease. I wanted to try and keep water, dust, debris out of there because it will make your hub dials start to get hard to 'lock/unlock." NAPA sells a product called Sil-glyde. That's what I used. But I'm sure there are other similar products out there that would do the same thing.
     
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  15. Oct 9, 2019 at 11:30 AM
    Kwikvette

    Kwikvette My 4R identifies as a Tacoma

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    Yeah I've read that if you put too much grease, it'll be harder to turn.

    I've got new o rings and gaskets as well. Just read too many different threads from people all over that rebuilt their hubs with different oils/grease. We're both in Cali so I figured I'd use whatever you used.
     
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  16. Oct 9, 2019 at 11:31 AM
    Kwikvette

    Kwikvette My 4R identifies as a Tacoma

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    Oh and the brake/dust shields are dented to shit, thinking of just removing them.
     
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  17. Oct 9, 2019 at 11:34 AM
    Kwikvette

    Kwikvette My 4R identifies as a Tacoma

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    It bends and crumbles up like aluminum foil; if I flatten them while they're off, I bet I'll bend them back up upon reinstallation of the spindles lol was just trying to find an excuse not to use them if there are no ill effects.
     
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  18. Oct 9, 2019 at 11:36 AM
    Uphillshunter

    Uphillshunter El Taco Diablo

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    Swapped 4x4, Twin sticks, Tundra Brakes, Bilstein 5100s, ToyTec 620# Coils, 1.5 AAL + 5 lug leaf, Pro-Comp 17x8.5, Transgo shift kit, Dual batteries

    I got my diff from Tyler... But I got the trans, t-case, and front drive line from ToyAuto Mart in Rancho Cordova. They even delivered them to my house. To say I highly recommend ToyAuto Mart would be a severe UNDER statement.
     
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  19. Oct 9, 2019 at 11:38 AM
    Kwikvette

    Kwikvette My 4R identifies as a Tacoma

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    I've seen that place, looks like damn Tacoma heaven. Kind of why I stopped looking for a drive train; would hate to have a transmission sitting outside or worse, in the extra bedroom if I got one anytime soon.

    I saw your post and your experience with them. It's not too far from me so for that, I would just make the drive and forego shipping.

    @Area51Runner I never asked, you going ADD or manual hubs on your swap?
     
  20. Oct 9, 2019 at 11:43 AM
    Uphillshunter

    Uphillshunter El Taco Diablo

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    Swapped 4x4, Twin sticks, Tundra Brakes, Bilstein 5100s, ToyTec 620# Coils, 1.5 AAL + 5 lug leaf, Pro-Comp 17x8.5, Transgo shift kit, Dual batteries

    LOL... shipping was 50 bucks... It was money well spent for me. I couldn't have paid for the round trip in gas + lunch for 50 bucks.



    I see you're asking @Area51Runner about manual vs ADD on his swap. I will make a note on that. I swapped and used manual BUT I plan on going long travel in the next year or so... at which time I will swap to ADD hubs with my manual J-shift t-case. Unfortunately this will make my CVs spin 100% of the time... but the long travel needs Tundra axles and those wont work with manual hubs.
     
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