1st gen OEM skid fails

Hello all, have taken the OEM skid off to do work and such I was impressed with how Toyota braced it to be strong for it's weight. I put it through it's paces today, went through some whoops faster than I should have and hit the skid pretty hard. With 240K on the clock, I think rust has penetrated into the skid more than the OEM coated reveals, as it now has some holes in it after this outing.

Anyone else have OEM skid fails? Aftermarket skid fails?

I like the look of 22REthan's stainless skids, but would like more coverage towards the back. RAT looks good, both the three piece kit or the one piece kit that is an extended on piece that seem to have about the same coverage as the 2 piece OEM. Skid Row looks like the tops as it has holes to use the two mounts behind the front three mounts by the rad. Curious to peoples opinions.

 

Hi brother, I don't want to come off as talking about my opinion because, well, I'm an armor company that sells what you are asking about, which means I'm biased and real customers opinions are what truly matters.

We recently got back on the forums, and I've been looking at some old threads and realized that was some misinformation about our 1st gen Tacoma skid plates. I hope you don't mind me just clarifying our skids for the group in this current thread?

The BudBuilt 95.5-04 Tacoma front skid plate mounts to the front crossmember, the engine crossmember, and the steering rack mounting bolts. It's looks like our skid doesn't attach to the engine crossmember in pictures because we run the plate right up against the frame, for maximum strength across a wide surface area. Because we use 3 axis multi angle laser cutting, that area has angled, beveled holes for using carriage bolts. That provides a smooth bottom, with maximum ground clearance, and multiple attachment points.


We then usilize the incredibly strong steering rack bolt to furth lock the plate on the frame.


That is what I think people got confused on earlier. Thinking we didn't have recessed bolt heads or engine crossmember attachment points.

Further we laser cut an engine drain hole that will allow easy routine maintenance, but is as small as fictionally possible to not let rocks catch the plate and hang you up. We also don't cut out logo in any skid plate, the strength of our plate for your truck is more important than advertising for us. We construct out of 3/16" steel or stainless steel, 1/4" aluminum, or 1/8" lite steel (overland style)

Installation guide:
http://budbuilt.com/95-04-Tacoma-Front-IFS-skidplate-bellypan_b_5.html

Please don't buy BudBuilt because of this, it was just to clarify the "recesses bolt head" and mounting system design that was described incorrectly on an other thread from a few years ago.

If people recommend us, great, if they don't, we'll redesign. As long as your motor is protected, that's all that really matters.



The passenger side engine crossmember attachment looks bent, it's actually just from a gloss spray paint touch up. Gave a weird optical illusion.

 

Hey Bud! How much for a 1st gen skidplate?

 

$264 for 3/16” steel or 1/8” lite steel
Add $179 if you want 1/4” aluminum or 3/16” stainless steel.

Rob

 

I like these. I hear good things about Budbuilt products. If I keep my 1st Gen I’ll be making an order.

 

Might be a dumb question but i need to confirm, do all front skid's from 1st gen taco's interchange? For example, can i put a 2000 2.7l 4x4 skid plate onto a 2004 3.4l 4x4 and not have issues??? Thanks much for any help!

 

Not a dumb question, you would be amazed at how many changes happen under Toyota’s. Which is why we have so many different part numbers.

But for the 1st gen, everything is interchangeable except if you have a ‘95.5-97 regular cab. That truck has a different transmission crossmember design.

Found that out 15 years ago when I was a college kid in Florida. Called Bud about it, and he took care of me. And to come full circle in the story, I will start working at BudBuilt January 2019. Funny how life works.

Rob

 

If you aren't off roading is the skid even necessary?

 

Absolutely not, if you don’t need to protect the drivetrain and frame from trail damage, save your money for an amazing road trip. Don’t waste it on our skids that will never be utilized.

Rob

 

What is the lead time for a set of 3/16” raw steel right now and has the price changed?

 

Price hasn’t changed, and the front skids in raw steel ship in one week. When adding the belly pan skid and crossmember, add a couple weeks because I need to build some more crossmembers, and we leave for Lone Star Jamboree on Wednesday. So we’ll slow down on building for about 6 days.

Rob

 

So if I can get my order in today it would ship out when?

 

Pricing still the same?

 

Yep, I don't have any plans to increase prices. While high carbon USA steel has gone up (we only use high carbon steel anymore), we've had to buy more of it at a time (you can thank the Land Cruiser guys for jumping on the BudBuilt train). So we started getting even deep raw sheet steel prices, and I'm just to keep passing it on to customers.

Also, we have an extra little feature, the skids have a CV axle removal hole. Now with a BudBuilt front skid, and a pry bar, you can quickly pop CVs out on the trail. (remember to keep the trail clean of oils and trash, we got to keep 'em open)