2000 SA Crawlrunner

KMC grenade crawl beadlocks with -38 offset

 

I checked their site out months ago and it’s not listing the -38mm for 6x5.5

What’s the part number you got?

https://www.kmcwheels.com/kmc-grenade-crawl-beadlock

 

I got mine from a local shop through FB marketplace called Salinas Tires and Wheels. They get blanks and then send to wheel shop once you specify lug pattern of your rig. Supposedly they get their wheels from wheelpros, so you might wanna try there.

 

how much you end up paying for 1 since the pattern needed to be drilled if you don’t mind me asking

 

$350 each not including tax and labor.

 

Excellent price. I’ll keep that in mind

 

I’ve been lacking on progress updates with this build. Basically ended up getting an 8.75” 3rd gen Tacoma rear end. I figured guys are out there running these stock rear ends wiyh 40’s without any issues. @Ricardo13x was the mastermind behind putting it all together. Picked up a complete rear end on marketplace. Had to regear to 4.88, change the driveshaft flange to match the pinion side flange of the rear end. @Ricardo13x built a new brake line, move the spring perches, regeared it, cleared the fenders in the front and rear, and put it all together. Only thing I can take credit for is welding on the zona motor sport truss.

 

Forgot to add, @Ricardo13x also had to move the air shock mounts. He brought them a little closer so hopefully the rig doesn’t sway as much. He also connected the e-locker that came with the rear end. Just waiting on nuts and washers for the driveflange from Toyota dealership on Monday. Then it’s time to take her for a ride. Here’s how she’s sitting.

 

Fun project for sure! Badass to the bone.

 

A shock is just a dampening device, truly has nothing to do with body roll. Without said device, the leaf springs will just bounce. Mounting the absorbers more in a vertical plane helps dampen the most. Mounting the absorbers in an “A” will remove that optimal absorption but allow the user to gain more travel.

If you’re trying to limit body roll, consider adding a front, rear, or both sway bar so the truck will return to plane faster and prevent body roll. Adding a rear sway will be the easiest, considering the rear tire isn’t in a turning tire. Adding a front sway is extremely tricky but doable and more involved. Considering the frame mount track bar, pitman arm of the steer box, axle width, and tire turning radius is also a huge factor for the front. There’s nothing else you can do to prevent body roll without the addition of a sway bar. I’m running an offset RockJock in the rear and offset TK1 for the front. Adding the rear helps tremendously for both surface streets and highway but is a night and day difference once I got the front sway on. Handling the mountain road curve at a fast rate of speed feels way better than an IFS.

Out of curiosity, why the semi float 8.75 and not the full float 80? WMS difference between both axle is .75” and the 9.5 third is more robust compared to the 8.75. Another benefit of the FF is the easy of service, pull the shaft and you have access to the third, no mess like a semi float. Plus, on a FF, the weight of the vehicle is supported by the hub, and the axle shaft only transmits torque while a semi-float, the axle shaft supports both the weight and the torque.

 

good call on all the above and questions. Addressing the shocks: yes I know it’s not gonna get any better, it got moved in more and more vertical actually way more spread out before. I plan on getting an outboard shock relocation as one of my next projects. You are also spot on for the rear sway bar. Matter of fact @Ricardo13x and I talked about it before he left for the night as he drove through the riots in LA. ROC Joc antirock in rear is next up on project as well.

As far as choosing the 8.75 Tacoma route: 1) can’t find any fj80 rears that are decent price, most are out of state and non disc brake without lockers 2) they are offset, I know we can make it work offset but it was a factor 3) I got this full rear super cheap, yes it has drum brakes but yeah I’ll upgrade that as part of project in future as well.

I actually thought about doing this route. I contacted him but it was gonna be 1) long drive for me and it will take some time before I get rig back so that means need to drive back to pick it up. 2) it was double the price of how much this project caused me. Plus gas price to drive back and forth.


https://youtu.be/sF9Kcfq8EfE?si=Q7EVNWdkW6VmeA2d

 

@02hilux probably best if I just straight up go for the swaybar in front. Then add the rear after if even needed. Are you using some quick disconnect on yours?

 

No quick disconnect for me, I leave them in tact when I offroad. Haven’t feel the need to disconnect them, maybe the 20” arm has help to not disconnect. Plus, if needed, it’s just 2 nuts to remove to pull end link and accessing them is easy. Like I said above, the front will be time consuming, challenging, and a headache trying to package everything together in a compact location with lots of moving parts unlike the rear. That’s why majority will run a rear instead of a front. I honestly don’t think you’ll need a front sway if you add a rear. If you think about it, leaf springs, in a way, do act like a sway by returning the truck back to plane. Adding a rear sway will add resistance to the leaf springs and I think that should be good enough IMO. I been in a few truck that has rear sway with leaf springs and 3 link front and it drives pretty darn good.

If you decide to add a front, do your measurements twice and cut once, lol. Consider tire turning radius, farthest outward point of the pitman arm when lock, frame mount track bar bracket, location of coilovers etc to consider your sway placement and arm length. Too short of an arm is not good for the bar. Too long of an arm will cause bind. No win situation, lol.

 

Definitely makes sense about the leaf springs. I will try that first since it seems very straight forward compared to the front. I’ve already dealt enough with turning radius lol. Man, your set up is super solid. Thanks for always putting me in the right direction!

 

Another option is to run ORI in the front if you don’t plan on driving far. My main concern is long distance travel, they can heat up.

 

I am gonna change the front shocks in future but not ORI’s. I plan on doing trips to rubicon and Fordyce. Long drive from SoCal lol

 

Yea, that’s a good drive. I know guys who had ORI and drive 10+ hour and their ORI are hot to the touch compared to coilovers with a resi, warm to the touch. Not saying ORI are bad but guys with them tend to not run sway due to the designed. Pros and cons to each.

 

Multiple things considered along the process and yeah I mentioned to address the rear sway when fully loaded is an antirock bar(next in the books) front will be addressed with the suspension updates down the road, I consider ORI mainly for trailer queens. Thanks for the input and as always your trucks is spot on @02hilux

 

If you drive through the Central Valley on the 99, hit me up. We can grab lunch.

All 80 rear are disc/drum with 92/93 being semi and 94+ are FF IIRC. Elock rear are nice and typically run 1200+. I helped set up 2 for the 3G4R. I can say, 80 abs sensor works with 3G4R speedometer reading as 4R get their speed through the ABS. They are offset to the passenger but both rigs (40” and 38”) drives smooth and nice, no vibe.