2003 Tacoma frame rust repair

You can spray or brush or roll, it's low viscosity like buttermilk.
Follow directions carefully.
Once you use Coroseal you'll never regret it.
I sprayed inside my frame AFTER welding because they rust from inside out.
After drying I sprayed inside frame over Coroseal with Fluid Film using
Undercoating spray gun with 360° 24" wand extension I found on Amazon.
I did drill 5/8" holes in bottom of frame front and back and parked on incline to flush out frame. Then reversed on incline and flushed the other way till water was clear.

 

@BossFan love the Blue Healer
Post Taco pics
Please

 

If your spare tire has not been lowered on a regular basis to check the air pressure time to break out the grinder or torch.

I have yet to ever have one that ever worked.

 

Is this the ‘needle gun’ you mentioned in your first response?

 

his name is Dingo.


Merry Christmas to all my TW forum friends!

 

Merry Christmas to you and Dingo.

 

Replacing that same crossmember led me to several weeks of fun....



I put in some safe t caps by the front spring perches a few years ago, but found a bunch of extra rot when I went to put in that gas tank crossmember... ended up cutting out all the rust cancer I could find and fully boxing and platting the rear section of the frame... then primed painted and CRC’d inside and out... should get me another decade of life I presume

 

Thanks savanaman.
Is CRC better than FluidDilm or more a personal preference?

 

Here is my initial plan of attack. I got under truck this morning and used OB blaster on the 6 bed bolts and between tailgate and bumper for spare-lowering bolt (and just about any other bolt I could see). I’m going to let her soak for a bit. I have no help as far as lifting the bed, but was wondering if I might be able to slip a couple of 2x4s under it and then use my 2-post lift to lift bed off frame. I have an engine hoist as well, but thought the lift idea might work.

I’m definitely going to replace the fuel straps. I also see a bunch of other rusted components, like these brackets on the rear differential, and wonder if I should just start ordering these parts (assuming they are available).

 

I like CRC better because it dries to solid wax consistency and lasts a little longer. I’ve used fluid film as well and in spots that don’t get direct spray it stays put fairly well... really it’s just personal preference though.

You are not alone in the Rust fight, trust me... there’s a community of us for sure. All can be fixed and replaced with enough time, effort and $$$, so it’s really up to you how much it’s worth to you. I think these 1st gens are a perfect Compromise for size and functionality, and I’ll be keeping mine alive for as long as I can buy parts for it.

 

I would suggest using the 4 rope hooks inside bed to lift using the engine hoist.
From the differential pic it appears the LSPV actuator rod pivot point has been used as a mount for the black line above. Has your truck been lifted?
Is there a LSPV mounted on driver side frame behind fuel tank ?
I can also see the old Toyota applied CRC on diff. flaking off.

 

The truck has been lifted and has Old Man Emu AAL. I think the kit I bought came with a relocation bracket, but I didn’t do the actual install. I had it done at my buddys shop. Is that what that bracket is?

what’s a LSPV?

 

Load Sensing Proportioning Valve
It's located on driver side frame behind fuel tank.
It uses a rod from the LSPV to an adjustable pivot point on rear differential and applies more rear braking as the bed drops from added weight of payload or trailer tongue weight. The pivot point shown in your pic is supporting a black line above.
When a truck gets lifted the LSPV is removed and a manual valve is installed OR an extension to the LSPV actuator pivot is installed and the LSPV is kept and functions OR truck was lifted by someone who doesn't know about LSPVs and did who knows what which may leave truck with 0 rear brakes.

 

Based on personal experience, I have a feeling it may look like an unidentifiable rust ball.

I replaced mine with a simple manual adjustable one after it started leaking...due to rust

 

https://expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/first-gen-tacoma-build-advice.190661/post-2444590

 

I think the kit came with an extension for that unit. I say that because the rod looks fairly new. Here are some photos I just took. The spare wheel came down without any problems.

 

I wonder if I should order that rearmost crossmember that the spare tire attached to (as well as those bars that hold it in place)

 

Congratulations on getting spare down.
I would do lots of hammer testing before ordering parts.

 

The spare tire winch is an active safety recall for rust causing spare to fall unexpectedly. See if a dealership will take the old one in trade for new.
Join ToyotaOwners.com and run your VIN there to see recalls, service and Service bulletins (TSB)s

 

Ok. Will do. Do I have to remove the hitch to get access to the rear most bed bolts? Will I be able to run an extension through the bottom of the frame to access these with an impact gun?