2003 Tacoma frame rust repair

@BossFan
Tacos rust from inside Box frame sections. The drain holes are very small, poorly placed and become clogged over time. Drilling 1/2 to 5/8" holes in front and rear of frame bottom won't weaken it and allows for flushing salt, dirt and loose rust chunks out.
Allow for adequate drying before spraying Coroseal inside frame, it was the last step I did and I really soaked the inside using the 360° wand extension. I top coated inside frame with Fluid Film 2 weeks later using same wand.

 

Not that it will save the flare nuts but I would recommend that you try some Aero Kroil on the fittings, that stuff works pretty good. I second the notion regarding deflating/reflaring, depending on the condition of the brake lines I would probably replace them and get a good quality double flare tool, you might be able to luck out and find some pre-flared w/nuts lines that are the right lengths and just bend them to fit. Not sure if premade sets- non OEM stuff is available though
I really dislike rust.

 

Ok. I’ll definitely do this.

I got the rear crossmember out, descaled it, and degreased it. Aside from one of the welded nuts basically being non-existent, it’s in decent shape. Unfortunately, my coroseal didn’t come today, so I just put the crossmember back in.

Had a couple of other questions regarding getting the front crossmember out.
Do I have to remove the gas tank? If not, I’m assuming I should put something under it for support.

Does the black charcoal canister come out easily? I know BD Lila warned about the corrugated hose? How does that even disconnect? The brackets holding canister to crossmember do not look like they would survive being unbolted.

Several of the emission hose clamps (the ones that you squeeze to open) just disintegrated when I touched them. I’ll just replace all of them.

Should I do the same thing to the differential that I am doing to frame? Hit it with needle gun, clean, degrease, coroseal, paint. I’m guessing I should pull off everything that’s bolted on to differential to do this.

Should I pull the shocks just to make more room for myself?

 

This hose connection is push in, squeeze and turn I believe.
Pressure washing knocked off most loose rust for me. I did needle gun and wire brush as needed to diff, Drive shafts etc before Coroseal.
Coroseal will convert some pretty thick rust. The trick is keep coating areas that don't turn black in about 15 min.
Don't recoat white areas. Brown areas keep applying until black.
I poured it on the thick rust on hitch and left it pooling just to see.
All turned black and stayed like that on my scrap pile exposed to weather.
After 18 months of exposure it never rusted even though it wasn't painted over.
Take off what you safely can to gain access but be prepared to replace what falls apart like the CC brackets and Fuel tank straps.
I had to replace the tank skid with a homemade one that has since been replaced with OE as has the gas tank.
I have to drive through salt water to get home on NorEasters and Solstice High Tides.

 

Thanks. I was considering getting a new gas tank. I don’t think they are crazy expensive (someone did a write-up on using a RockAuto tank). I don’t plan on ever selling this truck, so I’d be willing to spend a little more now rather than having to go through this again at a later date.

 

If you haven't pulled your fuel pump yet, you may get more incentive to buy a new tank as often those bolts will twist off when you try to remove the pump. You will probably have to use vice grips because the heads are really soft and round off easily. I replaced my tank with a Rock Auto a few years ago. Seems decent quality, but the vacuum valve cover does not come included. Your's looks salvageable, mine was not. I had to make one.

I ended up replacing my rear cross and spare with home-made ones. Glad to see your's could be saved.



That is thick walled 2" x 2" tubing for the cross, and some scrap thin walled stuff for the tire braces.

 

I replaced my gas tank two weeks ago with the Spectra T031C tank, it was $260 on Rockauto. Did it to fix a gas smell by the filler neck and CEL for a small evap leak, both seem to have been resolved. I'll be interested to see what the gasket mating surface looks like on your sending unit, that was what made me decide to get a new tank.



Here's the album of all of the pictures I took during the process, may be of some help: https://www.tacomaworld.com/media/albums/2020-12-gas-tank-decrustification.63925/

In regards to some of your other questions, it may be possible to remove the tank crossmember without dropping the tank, but I think it would be pretty difficult. I personally wouldn't pull the shocks. I cleaned up my rear axle a bit while I had the bed off, so probably worth doing.

 

Thanks CrustyTaco! That album was helpful. I siphoned about 13 gallons out today, though my fuel gauge says I still have more than a 1/4 tank. Of course, I filled her up the day before I decided to take her apart. Did you drain your tank completely before you dropped it? I ran out of places to put fuel! Lol

The little bracket on top of where the connections for the fuel pump and sending unit is pretty wasted. Does this require replacement? I ordered all the gaskets that you showed.

Also, are there just three bolts at the front and the strap at the rear? Is there supposed to be a skid plate of some kind? It looks like there are places to bolt one on the tank strap

 

@BossFan
OE fuel tank skid plates can be hard to find. The original probably turned to rust dust before the frame replacement and wasn't included in the free replacement parts.
I paid $250 for a good used one in 2018.

 

I had the same problem, started with 10 gallons in the tank , had to borrow a 5 gallon container from Dad.

I don't think you can order that bracket separately, think t's just part of the sending unit. I suspect it's meant to protect the electrical connectors from rocks and debris flying backwards, if it's still capable of doing that then I'd try to re-use. I painted that shield black so it wouldn't look as rusty. Also used scotch brite pads on the topside and underside gasket surface to make everything shiny again.

Yes, the tank is held on by the three bolts on the front side and the tank strap on the rear. The strap can be lowered by removing the clevis pin in the center. If your tank strap is like mine the clevis pin on the frame side will be rusted solid. It's easier to just remove the bracket from the frame.

On the gas tank skid you can still buy the OE skids from the dealer. McGeorge has them for a little over $200 shipped. If you want more protection Low Range makes an aftermarket skid

https://parts.mcgeorgetoyota.com/oem-parts/toyota-lower-shield-7716135220

https://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/199...-for-xtra-cab-double-cab-models-tar-tgts.html

 

Ok thanks. I don’t know if that shield on the top of the sending unit can be saved. Another $53.

when I bought the truck, the guy gave me these skid plates but I always thought they were for the front. Is one of them maybe for gas tank?

 

Those are engine and transmission pans.
More like splash guards than skid plates. My $0.02

 

Nice job on the spare tire crossmember!

 

OK, that's what I thought. The OEM skid plate for my truck is like $400! I tried the link for the McGeorge Toyota above, but it said that one didn't fit my truck. The one that did was like $419.

 

I may know a hoarder or 2 with one.
You can also post a WTB here
https://www.tacomaworld.com/forums/1st-gen-tacoma-parts-marketplace-1995-2004.121/

 

I like the LowRange option for a gas tank skid plate that Crusty suggested. I might just go with that one,

 

Looks good for $199
A good used OE shipped from West coast would be more $$$

 

You ain’t kidding on this part. Over $1000 in parts now.

I picked up some 11 ga flat steel from Tractor Supply. Are there any photos of how folks welded up the passenger shock mount using this? Did they just weld a bolt to the flat stock and then weld that to the frame?

 

Pix of shock rehab here some where.
It was bolt with triangles under welded to inside frame.
Safe-T-Cap has pic of theirs on www

 

ITT: