2003 Tacoma frame rust repair

Looks like its coming along pretty well so far. I am doing somewhat of the same job currently on my 96 taco.

 

Got the fuel pump and rollover valve transferred from old tank onto new. Also put in the vapor canister.

 

Do I have to use ‘fuel injection hose’ for all the hoses that go to the vapor canister, or can I just use regular gas line like this:

 

Also, can I use regular gas hose for the 5/16 line that connects to gas tank? The one with the yellow stopper in the picture. I didn’t think this was hi-pressure because it is only held on with the little spring ring clamps, unlike the 3/8 line that uses the fuel injection clamps.

 

What you show in the picture should be fine accrording to this article:

https://www.goodyearrubberproducts....and_Parts/files/assets/downloads/page0031.pdf

 

I use fuel injection hose on everything after seeing what Etanol did to the insides of gas hose on my riding mower. Couldn't even blow pressure air through deteriorated gas hose.
I use only NonEthanol on everything now also.

 

Got the LSPV and brake lines all back together. I ordered the BAMF bracket to raise the arm 3.5” to match my suspension lift. I plan on bleeding brakes tomorrow. I’ve seen conflicting methods. Some say bleed all 4 brakes and then the LSPV and others say to start with the LSPV and then do the brakes. Which is it?

 

Also, is this wire harness clamp still available? The clips that hold it to the frame snapped off. Toyota South Atlanta just changed their online parts website and all the parts diagrams are gone now.

 

Is there a trick to getting the fuel line to feel ‘tight’ on the gas tank? When I removed it, I just used my hands to pry open the red plastic clamp so I could slide the fuel line off, but now when I try to put it back together, it doesn’t feel tight at all. Was I supposed to use a special tool to open the clamp?

 

Replace the hose clamp

 

I used one of these tools to disconnect that line: But I've also read on here that some people just use a pair of small screwdrivers to remove it. In my case the rubber outside hose seems to be able to slide a bit independently of the metal core.

If the line stays on if you give it a tug I'd think it would be ok. That is one of the only hoses I didn't replace when I replaced my tank.

 

Ok. Let me see if parts store had this

 

So the parts stores don’t carry anything that even remotely resembles the clamp and The stealership doesn’t sell just the clamps, so I wound up buying the entire sub-assembly. Whe installing it, can I just push it on to the lines or do I have to use a tool of some sort? I’m a little nervous about spreading the clips by hand again. This little hose cost $53!

 

The hose just pops on. . Got all the fuel lines and filler neck installed. Truck started right up. Put on my BAMF LSPV relocation bracket and bled the brakes. I used one of those hydraulic bleeders to do it myself. I will probably wind up taking it my friends shop fir a more complete bleed once I get the bed back on. Tomorrow I’m going to bring the bed in the shop to start thinking about fixing the rust hole in the bed.

 

Looking good Frank

 

did you get the sending unit for the tank new from toyota?

 

Yes. Sending unit came from Toyota but gas tank came from RockAuto

 

I brought the bed inside and started poking around with a screwdriver. Of course that revealed that the rot in the bed was a bit more extensive than just that relatively small rust hole. I guess that’s always the case. Anyway, I cleaned it up with a wire brush and then cut out the rot. I was hoping to follow Onakat’s lead and use some kind of flashing for repair, but I couldn’t find any at the big box stores. I’m going to try and make a patch using some sheet metal from Tractor Supply.

 

Hmm. 03 must be different from my 01 then. Come to think of it my tanks different. Doh. Charcoal canister location is different

 

Yeah, that tank looks very different from mine (2003). That frame is beautiful!