2005 DCLB PreRunner Build

Cool build. I have an 06 Prerunner long bed. When does the 4x4 begin?

 

We’ll see, I have been eyeballing some parts!

I’m on the fence about some things. If I should just swap in stock parts or do an SAS. If I do that should I use leaf springs or coils and links bla bla bla.
Should I be looking at rebuilding my engine, should I buy another engine and build that so my truck isn’t down so long.

Lots to think about!

 

Went to Yoda Jim’s in Denver!



He didn’t have what I was after but it was awesome walking around a junk yard full of just Tacomas and 4Runners and old Toyota Pickups.

 

Last day in Denver my Uncle took me up to the mountains in his bought-new-by-him in 1982 Toyota Pickup. Extensively modified.








This last one is my truck then his friend’s Tahoe or suburban thing and then his Toyota.



Quick trail repair

 

This crap again

 

Flash flood warnings all over El Paso, both main highways are closed which is a nightmare.
All the rocks washing down into the streets and basically rivers running through them was like hitting the mountain trails

Some washed out muddy spots too, a couple of stuck cars but I decided to risk it to bypass a ton of traffic. Worked out.

 

Remember way back when I said “I’d love to install some zerks one day.”
Well I did that today when I swapped my front coil springs out.


Since the Ironman kit “meant for 4x4 vehicles” jacked my truck up almost 5.5” and gave me essentially no real useable suspension travel either direction I started looking for a way to fix that issue without buying an entirely new setup.

So after a lot of thought and probably tons of unnecessary calculations I decided to pick up these coils and try them out. They should set me right about stock height, which I prefer.

I’ll have to keep updating as I put more miles on them!


Zerk fittings!


Coilovers out, shocks aren’t too dirty. Still ugly white though.


New coil springs next to the outgoing model, those are Dobinsons C59-238 coils. (14.75” free height and 586lbs/inch rate)


No better opportunity than now to remedy the colour choice!


Much better!



Installed some Superbumps while I was under there, just in case I need them.

 

Got a rusty bench vise for free a while back, I just finished fixing it up. I just did some cold bluing on the exposed metal bits and used some brown paint I had kicking around. I like how it turned out. It’s 45lbs.

Here’s the journey!

 

Day 7, truck still won’t start.

• Changed the fuel pump and fuel pump relay.
• Checked the FP resistor, that’s running high (at 0.9 - 1.5 ohms, should be 0.3 - 0.34 ohms) but it still won’t fire up when I bypass that.
• Circuit Opening Relay checks out okay, ignition relay too.
• EFI relay and fuses are all good.
• No OBD codes.

I bypassed everything and wired the FP directly to the battery and it kicks on.
If I spray ether into the intake it’ll fire up for a few seconds and idle like nothing’s wrong.

What in the world is wrong with my truck? I almost feel like this might be worthy of a new thread to get more eyes on it.

 

@TnShooter @Dm93 @Torspd

 

Gona need a little more context here on what led up to the no start but my first question would be is your security light flashing with the key on?

 

Yes, let’s start there.
This is the light you are NOT wanting to see flash with the key in the ignition.

 

No flashing light, no real lead up to the event either.

I filled up last week, drove around that morning and then literally out of nowhere, no warning, no hints, nothing, it sputtered out and died pulling out of a parking lot.


I’ve been told by a diesel mechanic friend (who is immensely good at their job) to look at the crankshaft position sensor.

 

So the truck will not run with the power jumped to the fuel pump but the fuel pump runs correct?

 

That is correct.

 

Is your CEL on with the key on?
Does the tach move while cranking?

I'm kind of assuming it has spark since you say it runs on starting fluid but I have seen engines that didn't have spark try to run on it, usually carb cleaner is a better option to try to see if spark and timing is correct to run.
Have you checked for power at the injectors & coils?
Grounds on he back of the cylinder head are another good place to check.

 

I was also thinking this about the injectors.

A spray can make the engine run without injectors or pump. Obviously. Spark was working.

The fuel pump was jumped out to test. May have been disconnected during the spray test.

Fuel pump circuit jumped to test pump proved good.

Can that same "jumping" be left in place then the vehicle cranked? This would bypass the operational circuit for the pump, and prove if the injectors are firing.