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2005 Tacoma V6 clutch slave cylinder rebuild

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by baldy77, Aug 16, 2015.

  1. Dec 5, 2017 at 1:28 PM
    #61
    NickofTime

    NickofTime Well-Known Member

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    I just throw money at my truck
    06 Taco with about 120k miles on it. Been squeaking ever since I got it (~85K Miles). Pretty sure its the TOB since it goes away with small amount of pressure on the pedal. I've searched all over this forum (thanks to the million redirects/TSBs/arguments/clutch kits)

    Is this the Fix? (no not URD's $500 "THE FIX")
     
  2. Dec 5, 2017 at 3:02 PM
    #62
    azzwethinkweiz

    azzwethinkweiz Well-Known Member

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    Fixing the problems seems to vary from person to person. Fixing the clutch pedal itself from creaking and squeaking usually involves taking apart the pivot and re-greasing it. The chirping noise coming from the TOB... thats a bit more involved. For me the thing that finally fixed it was replacing the OEM TOB with the over-sized bearing and SS sleeve from URD. Some people still report after some miles the noise can present itself again. But I am fairly confident that with proper adjustment of the clutch play and adequately lubricating the new TOB and sleeve upon install it should last many miles. The GOOD news is that the transmission in the 2nd gen is incredibly easy to R&R... it took me about 5 hours and I've never worked on a Toyota before. If the sleeves fails I'll either try the hydro fix or go T56 if I win the lottery :)
    Good luck in your research.
     
    lo2hi and Boomkanani like this.
  3. May 12, 2018 at 5:17 PM
    #63
    deeezy

    deeezy Well-Known Member

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    I have this slave cylinder rebuild kit on order and will be installing it just to refresh the slave. I also just had to replace my clutch master cylinder because it crapped out on me.
     
    Boomkanani, samiam and Torspd like this.
  4. Jun 28, 2018 at 7:19 AM
    #64
    k5driver

    k5driver I hate bums

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    Thanks for the write up, I just did this yesterday. My TO bearing was at the point that it had a loud annoying chirp. If I pressed the pedal in a little the chirp became a more constant noise but less annoying and less loud. A little further into the pedal and the noise was gone completely.

    To anyone else doing this I would add to make sure you loosen up the fluid line from the slave cylinder BEFORE removing the slave cylinder from the transmission. I tried to do the line last but it ended up being so stuck I had no leverage and had to reinstall the slave cylinder again. My truck is not rusty and it was like this.

    After the fix my noise is the quieter constant chirp but not as bad as it once was. There is also a slightly longer push rod that Toyota sells now, it's in the other write ups for TO bearing chirp.

    04313-34011 was the slave rebuild kit
    31473-35060 is the pushrod
     
    kdurant56 and DaveInDenver like this.
  5. Jul 9, 2018 at 10:25 AM
    #65
    dragonmaster839

    dragonmaster839 Member

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    I need to replace my master cylinder. Can you tell me where you got your replacement? Having a hard time finding the right (best) replacement online. Thanks!
     
  6. Jul 9, 2018 at 8:43 PM
    #66
    deeezy

    deeezy Well-Known Member

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    King ext travel coilovers, Icon tubular UCA's Rear-King "Tundra" 2.5's, Allpro Expos, TRD cat-back, Hurst/Core short shift kit, etc...

    I actually drove down to the dealership and bought OEM parts.
     
  7. Feb 28, 2021 at 9:59 AM
    #67
    Waasheem

    Waasheem The catholic radio bear

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    I happened across this thread awhile ago but didn't save, watch or anything. Searched for it, took forever to find again. So maybe this will help others find it in the future. Clutch squeak squeaking slave cylinder rebuild kit tsb.

    Yeah, I have a pedal up and down squeak, identified coming from underneath somewhere, not in the cab. I did already have to do the clutch master cylinder because it was leaking, pita. Also already did the adm. Towards the end of finishing the task, frustrated, I might not have bled it out good enough so I've been meaning to do that too. Planning a trip to the stealership to get the kit ordered, probably a starter too, due to intermittent no crank. I'll check at the starter for loose connections first, learned that the hard way.
     
    Chris(NJ) likes this.
  8. Mar 31, 2021 at 6:17 PM
    #68
    Alexander20

    Alexander20 Member

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    Thought I would share my experience with the Throw Out Bearing squeal on this forum.

    I have a 2007 4.0 6 Speed Tacoma.

    I got a shop to replace my OEM clutch with a LUK clutch, after a couple days of driving I noticed a metallic chirp sound any time I engaged or disengaged the clutch. Shortly after I noticed a squealing sound coming from around the bell housing area.

    When I went back to the shop who replaced the clutch, they said it could just be a faulty throw out bearing that was put in, so they once again put in a brand new thowout bearing. This only got rid of the noise temporarily, the squeal and chirp came back. I decided to look online and found many threads about this seemingly common issue with these 6 Speed transmissions.

    While I spent months reading online, trying to find a solution to this problem, the noise continued to get worse and worse. The options I found to try and solve the issue were either:

    - Clutch Masters Hydraulic Release Bearing
    - URD Throw Out Bearing Sleeve Kit
    - Toyota TSB "Fix"

    After reading about people's experiences with the CM Hydraulic Release Bearing (Loss of fluid, inconsistent pedal feel)

    I decided against that option because of the mentioned unreliability of the product.

    I finally decided to go with a combination of the URD Throw Out Bearing Sleeve Kit and the Toyota TSB.

    I had a shop install the URD Kit, while also replacing the original Slave Cylinder and Fork Support that came with my truck with the updated TSB parts.

    So far (drive from the shop to my house), there has been no squeal or chirp. I will periodically post updates on whether or not my truck remains squeal and chirp free.
     
    Waasheem likes this.
  9. Apr 23, 2021 at 10:51 AM
    #69
    thodiphash

    thodiphash Member

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    I have an 07 FJ 6MT - it squeaks when the clutch is fully released and goes away when the clutch is fully depressed. I'm trying OPs 6 year old fix with the factory rebuild kit. My local dealership didn't have it but it was in the warehouse for 1 day turn around. Total $25, pickup ready tomorrow morning at 10am. I'll do the swap this weekend and post back what I find. Thanks
     
    TACK likes this.
  10. Apr 25, 2021 at 5:15 PM
    #70
    thodiphash

    thodiphash Member

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    Okay, Sunday (not-so)Funday? ... I removed and reinstalled the newly rebuilt Slave Cylinder, twice!
    So the kit that I picked up from Toyota with the green piston and longer spring fit physically inside my slave cylinder, but when I reinstalled everything and tried to bleed the clutch the fluid was leaking out of the end with push rod. I figured I must have pinched the o-ring or some debris or something was in there causing a bad seal. (I did clean it really well, but that was my only guess).
    When I got it back out and compared the two parts I realized that my original silver piston was larger in diameter than the new (green) one ... so there was movement and leakage.
    I think the issue must be the blue Aisin slave cylinder I have isn't compatible with this rebuild kit. I ended up re-using the original piston and adding the new kit's longer/stronger spring.
    I got it all reinstalled a second time, bled the clutch and ...

    Well, the noise is 'mostly' gone. If I leave it in neutral for about 10 seconds after stopping it's almost gone completely.
    and when the clutch is all the way out the whine is much less noticeable.


    I think this is the right first step to fixing the overall issue, but probably a better idea to just buy the whole slave cylinder from Toyota for $80 rather than cannibalize the $25 rebuild kit.
    Also, I've noticed now that much clutch grabs at about 10% release, and last 90% of travel just jumps right up with no effect.
    I'm not sure if that's an adjustment I can make or a result of the new longer/stronger spring and pre-loading? I will dive in more tomorrow and see.

    Some insights if you're doing this yourself:

    On the Manual FJ, the drive shaft is REALLY aggravatingly in the way of this procedure. You'll need long, short and swivel sockets and open end wrench 12mm's to get this thing out.
    Also the upper bolt holding the shield on is very hard to get to (for me anyway) and I had to feel blindly around to attach the deep 12mm onto it.

    The clutch fluid line is impossible to reattach after the slave cylinder has been re-bolted to the transmission. Top-Tip is to reattach the fluid line about 1/4 of the way first, then shove the slave cylinder into the opening and get the two bolts on. Afterward everything can be torqued down.
     
  11. Jan 16, 2022 at 4:17 PM
    #71
    TACK

    TACK Well-Known Member

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    I'm going to try this. Ordered the rebuild kit as well as the longer push rod.
     
  12. Jan 16, 2022 at 4:19 PM
    #72
    Steve lewis

    Steve lewis Member

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    What is your opinion about me using my 2005 Toyota Tacoma trd v6 tow package. Pulling a 22ft 3500 double axle trailer. Towing a 2022 can am mx3 max x rs turboboth weigh around 4700lbs
     
  13. Jan 16, 2022 at 4:35 PM
    #73
    TacoTuesday1

    TacoTuesday1 Well-Known Member

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    throwout bearing quill is part of the trans.
    clutch fork actuates at a bad angle, putting uneven pressure on one side of the throwout bearing. Which tends to squeak.

    CM or Tilton hydroTOB eliminates all that. No need to rebuild or modify an old slave cylinder.
     
  14. Mar 6, 2022 at 6:05 PM
    #74
    JohnGabriel

    JohnGabriel Well-Known Member

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    Just did this job this weekend. Thank you for the part number. Feels like a better truck. The clutch never felt this good before. Very quick and away job to do.
     
    Torspd likes this.
  15. Jul 24, 2022 at 6:08 PM
    #75
    cmcdanielvii

    cmcdanielvii New Member

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    I know it's a long shot but the hardline going into the slave cylinder is siezed up pretty good, line was bending before the nut would give and I don't wanna risk fucking it up until I've got a spare. Any body got a part no. for the hydraulic line? Having a hard time finding it
     
  16. Jul 24, 2022 at 10:02 PM
    #76
    TacoTuesday1

    TacoTuesday1 Well-Known Member

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    when you do try loosening
    A good fitting brake line wrench is your friend
    as is soaking in penetrating oil such as AeroKroil, PB Blaster, BG, etc
    And MAP gas torch
     
  17. Jul 25, 2022 at 6:44 AM
    #77
    Torspd

    Torspd Tor-nication

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    Yup. Had some rear brake lines on a friend's truck that the fittings were so tight onto the line, that they were twisting as well. Penetrating lube, and some MAP was what worked. Such a pain.
     
  18. Mar 30, 2024 at 12:39 PM
    #78
    Brian05tacoma

    Brian05tacoma New Member

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    What is just above the slave cylinder? That is what is leaking on my truck
     

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