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2007 DCSB TRD-Off Road. Long, Slow, Unorganized, and Unnecessary DIY

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Builds (2005-2015)' started by Robpm, Feb 23, 2021.

  1. Feb 23, 2021 at 10:25 AM
    #1
    Robpm

    Robpm [OP] Member

    Joined:
    May 1, 2020
    Member:
    #326514
    Messages:
    14
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Rob
    Seattle, WA
    Vehicle:
    2007 DCSB 6MT Off-Road
    2007 DCSB TRD Off-Road 6 Speed Manual
    Bought in May 2020 with 87k on it
    Been meaning to start this thread for a while so I can keep track of stuff, get advice, and have people yell at me if I'm about to set the truck on fire with the electrical work.

    Main goals/uses:
    • Slowly give it features of a 2020 without paying for a 2020
    • Moderate off-roading
    • Get me to snowboarding and back
    • Camping
    • Cross country road trips


    Current mods:
    2.5" Lift with Bilstein 5100s (stock springs)
    Heavy Metal Suspension rear 2" AAL
    CBI Bed Rack
    Pelfreybilt Hidden Winch Mount
    Smittybilt XRC 9500
    Spyder headlights and tail lights
    Auxbeam ditch lights
    Blue Sea auxiliary fuse box
    Viair 400H Compressor
    Optima Yellowtop
    Raspberry Pi Car computer/stereo with 10.1" touch screen
    Sound deadening doors, roof back wall


    Current projects:

    Raspberry Pi Car-puter system (Here's where some unnecessary stuff comes in)
    • Done - SunFounder 10.1" Touch Screen
    • Done - Wireless Car Play (Carlinkit dongle)
    • Done - Audio
    • Backup camera/sensor
    • Front/dash Cam
    • Side mirror turn signal cameras
    • Blind spot sensors/warning lights
    • OBDII info
    • Altitude/pressure sensor
    • Gyroscope
    • Standalone GPS
    DIY Roof Top Tent
    Side Mirror Defrosters


    Eventually:
    Light bar
    Camp kitchen
    URD Short Throw Shifter
    Awning
    Prinsu rack
    Interior LEDs
    Dual battery + Solar
    Power rear window
    Remote start
    Skid plates
    Rock slides


    7A793492-E79A-480D-BA70-033D400AC694.jpg
     
    Last edited: Mar 16, 2021
  2. Feb 23, 2021 at 11:43 AM
    #2
    Robpm

    Robpm [OP] Member

    Joined:
    May 1, 2020
    Member:
    #326514
    Messages:
    14
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Rob
    Seattle, WA
    Vehicle:
    2007 DCSB 6MT Off-Road
    Here's the install of my Pelfreybilt hidden winch mount with the Smittybilt XRC 9500,
    With the help of the @bajafresh writeup:
    https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/pelfreybilt-hidden-winch-mount-install.323943/


    C5774BE0-CA4A-4E5E-9805-C52FB67046E3.jpg


    Get the bumper off
    BEB82037-F2E2-4D16-B930-6BFD47BED863.jpg


    Get the crash bar off and slap on the brackets, winch mount, and winch
    4025D8CA-E756-41C2-9590-A3D1ACD1EBBC.jpg


    Definitely got a bit carried away with the Dremel when cutting out the slot.. but I've gotta replace the winch line soon anyways, so I picked up a fairlead with a slightly bigger footprint to install when I get to it.
    5433CA36-B9AB-4F5F-9FC3-833A3B1AAC3D_1_201_a.jpg
     
    banditcamp likes this.
  3. Feb 23, 2021 at 12:02 PM
    #3
    Robpm

    Robpm [OP] Member

    Joined:
    May 1, 2020
    Member:
    #326514
    Messages:
    14
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Rob
    Seattle, WA
    Vehicle:
    2007 DCSB 6MT Off-Road
    Some miscellaneous electrical:


    Optima Yellowtop with some mil spec lead terminals, and the temporary home for my Blue Sea fuse box and breaker.
    Eventually going to clean it up once I get moving on the dual battery and solar setup, but I had some scrap sheet metal laying around and I wanted to start wiring things up.
    (ignore the stray hot wires floating off into the firewall, they have since been more neatly put into a wire loom)
    CFAEC5FB-F214-4EB0-8537-D409212F1B3F.jpg


    This is where the Viair 400H lives now. Re-wired the switch to get rid of the inline fuse since I've got the Blue Sea. Melted the stock switch with a soldering iron in the process, so I added a slightly beefier switch because I didn't feel good about the stock one not having a DC rating on it anyways.
    0351B8F8-67FF-41DE-867F-5EA6B860B9AC.jpg

    Auxbeam ditch lights, $20 on Amazon. Honestly seem pretty damn durable so far and they do what I need them to do. I was planning on ripping them apart to put some extra potting compound in there as a precaution (rated at IP67), but they seemed beefier than I expected when I received them, and honestly at $20 for the pair I'd rather just buy a new set if one or both happen to die.
    ED4F7894-ED6B-4688-8F1E-3A67DD458E47.jpg
     
  4. Mar 9, 2021 at 1:16 PM
    #4
    Robpm

    Robpm [OP] Member

    Joined:
    May 1, 2020
    Member:
    #326514
    Messages:
    14
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Rob
    Seattle, WA
    Vehicle:
    2007 DCSB 6MT Off-Road
    Raspberry pi Car-puter so far:

    Stereo when I bought it. Kenwood DPX500BT. Now partly Frankensteined into the new setup for now.
    IMG_3092.jpg


    Raspberry Pi 4gb and Carlinkit dongle to give me Apple CarPlay. Raspberry pi is running LineageOS 18.1 by Konstakang https://konstakang.com/devices/rpi4/LineageOS18/ which basically turns it into a tablet with Android 11 on it, with some extra customizable features that are fully unnecessary for a truck, but why not
    IMG_3597.HEIC.jpg


    I didn't want to dive fully into the DIY stereo system yet, so for now I'm basically using my Kenwood stereo with my Raspberry Pi as the input/controller, and that way my steering wheel controls still work without any headache. Eventually I'll be adding a DAC and DSP and amp to get everything cleaned up and all in one system, but for now this does what I wanted. But I didn't need the double-din sized stereo and the CD player all taking up room since I wanted to tuck it away, so I tore it apart to make it smaller. Removed the CD player portion but was stuck with the faceplate PCB at this angle because of the connector orientation.

    63151067495__84168438-6A8E-4951-84A2-02AA6BB5B7D7.HEIC.jpg


    It was impossible to find a connector/extension that would work with their proprietary connector, so I took a dremel to it and turned it into a 90 degree connector. Used some standoffs to secure it to the other PCB/housing, and later on I closed in the whole thing with the pieces from the original enclosure. Just bent them all in my vice, so it's not pretty, but nobody knows but me so that's fine.

    IMG_3130.HEIC.jpg

    IMG_3131.HEIC.jpg



    Also took the dremel pretty heavily to the double-din dash piece so I could mount the touch screen to it
    IMG_3199.HEIC.jpg

    Picked up a buck converter and a cigarette lighter with an on/off button to clean up the 12v input and power it for now until I get the rest of the system together.
    IMG_3087.HEIC.jpg


    Mounted everything to the double din using some stand-offs and a lot of trial and error and more dremeling. I ended up relocating the buck converter later on, so now it just lives hidden away with the Kenwood stereo behind the touch screen. Desoldered the volume knob and extended it out with some wires so I can still use the knob with the touch screen. They're absurdly beefy, but I didn't have any long enough scraps of thinner gauge laying around and wanted to just get it done while I had the free time.
    IMG_3196.HEIC.jpg

    Did the rest of the tearing out as needed so I could run all the wires and have the Pi in my center console, that way it's super accessible for now so I can keep adding on and working on it. Also happened to be running some wiring for the side mirror defrosters, so it was pretty ugly for a bit.
    IMG_2505.HEIC.jpg


    Made a little false bottom for the center console with some scrap 2x4 chunks. I was thinking airflow and cooling might be an issue, but so far the only time I had the Pi overheat was during a 6+ hour drive, and that was before I added the more heavy duty cooling case with two fans.
    IMG_3598.HEIC.jpg
    IMG_3599.HEIC.jpg


    And here it is:
    IMG_3210.HEIC.jpg

    I've got some grand plans for one day redoing the entire dash, shrink down the clock/hazard/airbag block since I don't need the clock there (ideally without screwing anything up in the process) and slimming down the whole center piece of the dash, but that's for a much later day, and I'll change my mind at some point anyways.
     
  5. Mar 15, 2021 at 2:56 PM
    #5
    Robpm

    Robpm [OP] Member

    Joined:
    May 1, 2020
    Member:
    #326514
    Messages:
    14
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Rob
    Seattle, WA
    Vehicle:
    2007 DCSB 6MT Off-Road
    Did a marathon of sound deadening over the weekend, got all 4 doors, back wall, C-Pillars, and roof.

    For the process I followed what @Crom did for the drivers door.
    Sound Proof Drivers Door
    "
    1. Remove interior panel, trash plastic weather barrier.
    2. Clean the door skin with water, rubbing alcohol.
    3. Deaden outer skin with 100% coverage with butyl mat.
    4. Frost King duct insulation 100% coverage over the butyl mat on outer skin.
    5. Clean and grease window lift motor gears, (optional)
    6. Seal holes on inner skin,
    7. Add some deadner mat on inner skin
    8. Add some foam on inner skin
    9. Hang Mass Loaded Vinyl (MLV) sound barrier.
    10. Trim down Styrofoam on interior panel.
    11. Replace interior panel.
    12. Done.
    "


    Materials that got all of it done, most from Amazon:
    Noico Black 80 Mil 36 Sq Ft Car Sound Deadening
    Noico Black 80 mil 18 sqft Car Sound Deadening Mat
    2x Frost King FV516 Duct Insulation & Tape, White
    US Energy Products (3MM Reflective Foam Insulation Shield, Heat Shield, Thermal Insulation Shield Radiant Barrier 16" x10ft 12.5sqft
    - or just one more roll of Frost King
    TMS Sound Proofing Padding for Wall – 4 x 10 Feet Mass Loaded Vinyl
    Noico RED 150 mil 36 sqft Сar Sound Insulation, Heat and Cool Liner, Self-Adhesive Closed Cell Deadening Material
    Nashua 3" Foil Tape from Home Depot
    Dorman 700-077 Splash Shield Clip


    100% coverage with the 80mil mat
    IMG_3589 2.HEIC.jpg

    100% Coverage of frost king. I used some spray adhesive on it as well, didn't trust the stickiness of the stuff already on it
    IMG_3590 2.HEIC.jpg


    Sealed up the holes. I skipped out on filling the holes with HDPE for this and just hoped that enough of the mat stuck on around the holes would hold it. We'll find out if that was a poor choice or not.
    IMG_3592 2.HEIC.jpg

    Not show, but I did some coverage with the Noico Red closed cell foam on top of this before the MLV.

    MLV coverage:
    IMG_3636.HEIC.jpg


    Repeated that for the other three doors with a ton of hours and shredded my hands and arms pretty good.


    Back wall got 100% coverage of the 80mil mat:
    IMG_3656.jpg


    Greg not realizing that we aren't driving and there isn't anything interesting outside:
    IMG_3658.jpg


    Didn't get any pictures after this because it was late an had a few beers at this point and just wanted to get through it, but the back wall got 100% coverage of the 80mil mat, then 100% Noico Red foam, then MLV held on with the foil tape. The roof got 100% 80mil mat, 100% Noico red foam, and then 100% Frost king because overkill.

    Bought a $20 decibel meter on amazon so I could see the before/after. Before the inside was around 76-80 dB on the higher end on a normal freeway drive, and afterwards I'm looking at around 66dB. Definitely a noticeable improvement, and now most of the noise I hear is just engine noise. I ended up with a good amount of extra MLV and insulation, and some larger scraps of the 80mil and noico red, so I'll probably add some down on the floor/firewall next time I pull out the dash and console.
     
    Last edited: Mar 15, 2021
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