A/C not turning on even after installing new parts

I have a 2010 Tacoma and it has a new blower motor new resistor and new ac switch controller...and I can not figure out why the A/C is not coming on!
NEED HELP!!

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/2010-tacoma-a-c.674287/

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/2010-tacoma-a-c.674286/

 

Are saying there is no air blowing out?
Or is there air blowing, but it’s not cold?

 

There is no air blowing out

 

Blown 50 ampere heater fuse blown.
Blown 10 ampere IG1 NO2 Fuse.
Heater relay is defective.
Burned connector on either the AC Controller, Speed Resistor and or the blower motor.

 

This ^

If you want to see if power is making it to the Blower Motor, I’d unplug the connector on the blower motor, turn the Speed dial to Hi, and see if I have power to the yellow wire on the connector.
If not, you know you have a power issue, if so, you have a ground issue.

Remember, you need to have the Blower speed set to something other than OFF. (I’d use Hi)
As the switch grounds the relay to send power to the motor.

@Jimmyh can correct me if I’m wrong.
He’s one of the best on electrical around here.

 

^^^ I wish I could understand those things. To me they all look like a Tron light cycle track.

 

It’s really not that difficult. It’s a lot like reading a road map. Every circuit must have a power source, a switch, a component, and a path to ground. Every place there is a circle or dot, is a connection. When lines cross without a circle, there’s no connection, like a freeway overpass. In the circuit above, IG1NO2 is the power source, the relay coil is the component, and the switch connects the left column to the right ground column in all positions except off. The other part of the circuit is the actual motor. The heater fuse is the source, the relay contact is the switch, the motor is the component, and the path to ground goes through 2 resistors for low speed, a resistor and switch for the 2 medium speeds and only through a switch for the high speed. Just follow the lines like reading a road map, knowing that your trip is going to take you in a loop to eventually get you back home. Also, note that the switch can be on the power side of the component, the ground side, or both sides. Anywhere that breaks the loop will turn off the circuit.

 

Nice!

 

The 50amp heater has 12v pin 4 on the heater relay has 12v but no where else on the relay can I locate 12v. What is 29 and 33 with the 2amp label, is that what closes the relay?

 

It’s impossible for you to have 12v on pin 4 of the relay. That’s a ground terminal to prevent the motor from acting like a generator and sending voltage into the truck as it’s spinning down after shut down.

You should have constant power to pin 5 and key on power to pin 1.

 

Maybe this will help with Pin ID
Lower left corner relay


Picture pulled from here
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/hidden-fuse-for-trailer-lights.614190/

 

I can't find any other voltage on that relay except for pin 1. Sorry I called that pin 4 earlier.

 

Then double check the 50A heater fuse and power at that fuse. If theres power at the fuse and the fuse is good, and there’s no power at pin 5 on the relay, then the problem has to be with the internal connection in the fuse box between the fuse and relay.

 

How difficult is it to open the fuse box up to check connections?

 

This thread shows the process. Not an easy job.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...-box-battery-wire-replacement-upgrade.420450/

 

If it were mine, I would take a heavy duty ATC fuse holder with a 30A fuse, wrap 1 lead around pin 5 of the relay, push the relay into the socket, and push the other fuse holder lead into the heater fuse socket without the heater fuse installed, and see if the blower works on a low speed. Make sure the wire doesn’t touch any other relay terminals. If you don’t follow my instructions exactly an melt your wiring, it’s not my fault. Make sure the fuse wire goes into fuse terminal 1 of fuse number 3 as shown below.

 

On high the resistor is by passed.