2010 Tacoma does this bearing noise seem normal?

I had my truck up on jack stands to check out the deplorable condition of my front brakes/hardware and was looking for noise/play in the wheel. This is the front right. The dealer said my wheel bearings ($700 each) and possibly the assembly (+$400 on top of the $700 each) once they get it apart needed replacement...I was listening for a clunky or noisy spot and looking for play in the wheel...It seemed ok? I don't notice anything when driving...and I'm wondering if I need to wait for a more noticeable set of circumstances that indicate it's time to change them out? Thanks for the eyes and ears...

 

My passenger side makes that noise currently. Brought it to the dealer and had the mechanic and the shop foreman listen to it with a stethoscope and the said it’s not the bearing but they couldn’t figure out what it was. No play on the wheel and no noise while driving.

 

Whatever you do, don't pay $700 per side. If you look at the breakdown of the hours, its all set up this, set up that. If you must have dealership change, have them do both sides and insist on a break on the labor. Better yet, order an extra set of bolts and hub. The hubs are available aftermarket, and assembled units are now available. It took my local mechanic no more than 3 hours to install both sides. I made about 80k on stock, 150k Cheap chinese replacements. 171k now. 2012

 

I got same quote. Its ridiculous. No way 4+ hours per side. None. Its all "set up press". They got a jig, it takes 5 min. If you don't want to buy new hubs, NAPA will press yours into new bearings for $20 per side. Also, beware of the "you need brakes", the stock ceramic pads start at 9mm. Spec is 1mm. You "freindly" dealership will try and sell you pads because your "down to 5mm". I "needed" brakes at 40k, at 115k i put on pads because the SS shim came unglued, and they whined pulling up now Dunkins.

 

Are you spinning that wheel forward or backwards?

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...-complete-save-custom-built-available.288055/

 

I see your from Mass. How many miles? Do your discs just have a ridge of rust on outer edge? How do the pads look? Take the discs off and use a file to knock down the lip. Milage. Knowing the milage would help.

 

you want those!!!. But u need the big frickin O-ring from dealership. Unless they included. Also mabee the "dust sheild" on CV(never replaced mine).

 

Seconded the rotor lip removal. Sounds like a grind which means I would start at the brakes themselves. See if you can work a piece of notecard or something between the pads and rotor to make sure there are no points making contact if you're already suspecting your brakes are bad. At least this will rule out one set of variables and allow you to troubleshoot the noise from another angle.