2012 Fuel pump failure (Resolved)

What is the fuel pressure? Not I have plenty of fuel, real time PSI.

 

Why would it matter what the fuel pressure is? If there is delivery, even if under spec, the truck will start. It might run like shit, yes, but it will start.

I dont have a fuel guage otherwise spec would had been checked.

 

I am truly puzzled by your problem.
It doesn't start at all, but turns over the engine.
You have fuel to the rails and injectors.
The injectors are getting a pulse to open.
You have spark to the plugs.

Something here is not correct. If you have a spark, fuel, and air it will start or at least sputter and attempt to start. As you have sprayed fuel from the rail, and I assume you have verified the spark by actual observation. The one thing you have not done is actual verification that the fuel injectors are being commanded to open or are actually opening.

If you are getting fuel and the engine is not firing those plugs should have been wet with fuel. I don't think the injectors are opening.

How was this pulse measured?

 

Ha ha thanx man I think im going to give sealing up the fuel pump sending unit flange once more to see if I can stem the tide before I get a new tank and maybe not fill the tank during the hot summer months. I removed the bed replaced the fuel pump and gasket ,used Permatex Permashield gas resistant sealant,and the first hot day of the summer toped off the gas and there she goes again leaking

 

Spark was measured by ohysical observation. Fuel injection from the injectors may be an issue as far as observing it. Even then, how could all of the injectors just quit like that? It doesnt make any sense. This is a low miled vehicle and I dont see how or why all the injectors would physically quit opening like that. I am a bit limited in tools so I can not actually mess too deeply with obtaining injector wave patterns like I would like to. The pulse time was obtained from the scanner. I pulled plug #1 to see if it was wet and it was not. It also makes me wonder if those injectors may be reading good but not physically opening myself. I know the engine should had been at least somewhat flooded by now but i doesn't appear to be. The fuel pulled from the pump appeared to be very clean as well I should note. There was no visible traces of gunk or junk though the strainer filter was very black.

 

Well, you have spark, you have fuel, exhaust blockage was the only thing I could think of. The Toyota immobilizer I don't know how that devil works, but one would think it keeps the starter from cranking. But you tried a different key and the starter cranks. I wish you the best of luck.

 

You know. The more I think about it. If the durty fuel messed up my fuel pump enough to kill it, what are the chances that the junk went through the filter and up to the injectors? Just because I am getting plenty of pressure and a pulse doesn't necessarily mean that they are physically opening. Is it possible that enough gunk got through to clog all of them up? I am starting to wonder.

 

No it does not mean it will start.

 

Fuel pressure is the only constant in the system every thing else is base on that. It is mechanically regulated pressure, the pump delivers more fuel than the engine uses the rest is returned to the tank. I'm not saying it is your problem I'm saying it needs to be checked and eliminated before you move on.

 

Tons of pressure.

This case is officially resolved. The fuel pump was the problem but when I first put it in yesterday I took pictures of the lines and where they were both supposed to hook up to on the pump assembly. Somehow and I dont know how the hell, I crossed both lines, so there was fuel being supplied to the return side instead of the supply side. I managed to figure it out after tracing the lines from the fuel pressure regulator back to the quick connect location. I performed a quick fuel flow test while cranking and confirmed there was pressure. Upon swapping the lines the truck started right up no problem.

Probably tomorrow at some point ill get back into the tank and set the lines to where they need to be. For now, it works great and truck runs like a monster again.

Whew. Thanks for all the input guys. The original diagnose was correct. It was just a case of accidental botched install.

 

Excellent thread, glad that you figure out. Still what kind of BS is that ? Fuel pup quitting on brand new truck? Thats a GM quality.

 

Highly agreed! I'm still amazed that I pulled a dead Denso part out of the truck. That is something you expect out of Delphi and GM not Toyota and Denso. Makes me wonder if I received a defective one that had been struggling for a while. I rarely ever ran it to E. So far I do not hear or detect any knock at WOT any longer. I also know the stock fuel pump has difficulty building initial pressure and it loses it quickly due to some defective check ball in the pump. Which will lead to some people receiving a P1604 code. This problem should no longer pertain to me nor affect my startability at this point.

As for the install, i'm going to blame it on my own desperation to finish yesterday due to multiple factors. The area I live in has frequent winds in the afternoon of 20-25mph easy regularly. Yesterday was no different. It really kept me from focusing multiple times due to stuff flying around including my mat on the ground. With that wind is also the fact the truck was on the street with constant traffic. It was all relevant in my small but critical mess up.

 

Yeah don't listen to people blaming for that pump. Those things should not fail unless you have 100k and even than it would be unusual. I would not sweat connecting it wrong. It happens to everybody especially if you stressed.
Still kudos for finding problem and fixing it.
I would call Toyota Corporate and ask for money on parts, in retunr you will send them bad unit. I have a feeling its a bad batch and a lot of people will struggle.
Would not surprise me to see a recall.

 

Given Toyota's track record on warrantying and honoring damaged parts/defective equipment etc. I would be VERY surprised if they even considered doing a voluntary recall or TSB regarding the fuel pumps on 2nd gens. I am not sure they would even consider hearing my case out now that I have rectified the problem. Still. It is something to consider that I yet to have done.

 

So you said you had your cel and trac light come on before hand? I've had mine come on and off starting last week.

 

Yes. You should probably pull the code and find out what it is before you panic though.

 

Yeah I work at a dealership and can get that checked out quick. Hope nothing is wrong

 

Hey a quick question to all the guys who have done the pump before. How tight does the assembly retainer ring (the big fat white one which holds the assembly in place) need to be? I'm leak free in the back of the tank but the front leaks out gas. Im not sure how damn tight that thing needs to be though.

 

Bump for this question

 

Resolved. I ended up sliding the bed back and working on it in peace. As a word of advice, go to the store if you don't have it and buy some silicone paste with PTFE. Before you reinstall the pump apply a liberal amount of silicone paste to the pump retaining ring seal and install back in the lip.

The problem with these guys who have leaky tanks is the stock O rings have a tight fit around the lip and have the tendency to raise up past the lip unless you push the pump down on it immediately. By applying the silicone paste not only will you condition the O ring with PTFE (good for those who want to run E85) but you will also allow the paste to make the ring tacky thereby allowing the ring to stay in place until you can install the fuel pump with ease and apply the retaining ring with peace of mind.

This case is officially closed.