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2012 Tacoma Access Cab Audio Build Factory Headunit- Some help needed

Discussion in 'Audio & Video' started by sbarnesvta, Sep 18, 2012.

  1. Sep 18, 2012 at 3:17 PM
    #1
    sbarnesvta

    sbarnesvta [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Hey All,

    I have had the truck for a couple months now and as an audio engineer, the stock sound system is not quite up to par. I had a nice little system in scion before I sold it, and now it is time to upgrade the stock system in the truck. This is not going to be an over the top build with way too much bass, but it will be something that will sound good and get loud.

    This is the first car that I like the factory headunit look and feel. It has everything I need XM/CD/Aux/Bluetooth/Steering wheel controls, so I am going to be replacing everything else for the time being. I have a pioneer headunit that I pulled from my last project that I might be installing eventually if someone comes out with a decent double din replacement bezel.

    The plan for the build, as the signal path would flow.

    Install

    -Stock Headunit

    -4ch line driver w/ EQ and sub output.
    http://www.audiocontrol.com/712451/...Converter-with-Equalization-and-AccuBASS.html

    -Digital System Processor (This is still a long shot, I will use the LCQ-1 for EQ right now). I use them in live audio, it will give me more processing that one could ever want in audio system. I just need to figure out a power supply for it without using an inverter.

    -4ch Pioneer Amp (Front Component Speakers and Rear Door Speakers) http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_22382_Pioneer-GM-D9500F.html

    -1ch Pioneer Amp (Sub) http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_22154_Pioneer-GM-D8500M.html

    - Component Front Door Speakers http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_12224_Pioneer-TS-D1720C.html

    - Rear Door Speakers http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_11269_Pioneer-TS-D1602R.html

    - Pioneer Shallow Mount 10" Sub in a custom enclosure behind the driver seat. I would like the build a bandpass sub, but I need to keep the box to 20"x11"x6" to fit behind my seat so I do not know if I will be able to make it happen, if I cannot I will just build a sealed down firing box. From the calculations I have done so far it would give me about .55cuft of air space in the box which would be perfect for the shallow mount sub.

    - Sound Deadener http://www.raamaudio.com/products/RAAMmat-BXT-II.html

    - I still need to find a source for the speaker adapters (I think there is someone on this board that makes them)



    Tuning

    - I am going to dive in depth with the tuning process of this system when I am finished. There are some flaws that I have seen in using a simple RTA to tune a system. I am going to be playing with some software called Smaart which I use for tuning PA's in live audio. It actually compares a reference signal to a signal from a measurement mic to tell you the differences between your audio content and what your sound system is producing. I will get a little more detailed with this when the time comes.


    Now for a couple questions,

    - I am hearing mixed reviews about the LCQ-1, I know the auto on function (Turns itself and your amp on when it sees input signal to it) is unreliable. Does anyone have any experience with this unit, or one they can recommend?

    - Any ideas on how to come up with a remote on for the amps and the line driver and if I cannot get the LCQ-1 to work off of the signal input.
     
  2. Sep 18, 2012 at 5:08 PM
    #2
    chrispy

    chrispy Well-Known Member

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    I'm looking at the same type of system set-up for my 2012 access cab. I plan on going directly from the factory hu to a alpine PXE-H660, than adding the amp and speakers. Since the rear speakers are located in the roof for the access cab i plan on only replacing the front speakers. Do you plan on altering your access doors to make the 6.5" fit?

    You should look into making a custom sub box that sits between the back seats, i've seen pictures on the forum they look pretty nice.


    Look forward to seeing your build.
     
  3. Sep 18, 2012 at 8:32 PM
    #3
    sbarnesvta

    sbarnesvta [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Funny you should mention the rear door speakers, I walked out to my truck, opened the rear door wondering where the hell the speakers are. After some research, I do have the overhead speakers.

    I am only going to change the front speakers for the time being. I went ahead an ordered a Audiocontrol LC2i line level converter and driver. It was only $70.00 vs the $250 for the LC6, when I get it all installed and I need the EQ feature I will probably upgrade it or start looking into something for system tuning.

    I am very hesitant about going to a processor that does any sort of self-tuning or self-correcting of factory stuff, they can do really stupid things internally that they "think" are correct.

    I will post up the final gear list as soon as it is ordered up a bit later tonight.

    Lastly, with the sub enclosure, I was looking at the center sub, but I lay things down in my back seat all the time that lay the width of the truck. If I put a big sub enclosure in the middle I will have issues getting stuff to fit. The way I see it is the back seat is too small for anyone to sit in, so I can eat up some floor space on the drivers side. The box will sit level with the rear storage compartment and still allow the seat to be folded down.
     
  4. Sep 18, 2012 at 8:47 PM
    #4
    evanmb31

    evanmb31 Well-Known Member

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    I wanna see someone completely remove the storage compartmets and metal seat frame and build a box that fits under the rear seats and also supports them. Im hoping to be able to do this someday. I cut the metal seat frame and stuffed a small custom box for a 8" shallow mount under the rear passanger seat. I like the idea of keeping the sub somewhat hidden and still have full use of the backseats. Subbed for finsished product, ive still got a lot to learn from audio experts like you
     
  5. Sep 19, 2012 at 8:00 AM
    #5
    sbarnesvta

    sbarnesvta [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I have looked into this, I like the idea of undersea subs, but I am 6'3" and not willing to sacrifice the headroom.
     
  6. Sep 19, 2012 at 8:19 AM
    #6
    sbarnesvta

    sbarnesvta [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Final gear list for the install

    - Pioneer GM-D8500M (Sub Amp)
    - Pioneer GM-3500T (Front door speaker amp)
    - Pioneer TS-D1720C (Front Door Speakers)
    - Pioneer TS-SW2501S2 (Shallow mount sub 2ohm)
    - Audiocontrol LCQ-1 (Yea I am back to my original plan)
    - I still need to order a power distribution block, but I have all the power/signal/speaker cable I need to get this all wired up.

    As far as the LCQ-1 goes, I spoke with a tech this morning from audio control, and have a bunch of info that may be helpful to anyone else looking at installing this in a 2012+ tacoma.
    - LCQ-1 does not put any extra load/ resistance on the speaker line. This mean you can put in inline of a set of speakers and continue to use the speakers powered off the stock headunit.
    - LCQ-1 will not allow you to derive the sub outputs off of Inputs 1/2, it defaults to inputs 3/4 if there is no signal on inputs 5/6
    - LCQ-1 will only turn on by itself if it senses signal on inputs 1/2, or if it is powered off a 12V switched power source.

    I have a couple options when it comes to wiring the LCQ-1.
    - Front Door speakers will be on inputs 3/4
    - Sub will be on output 5/6 and will derive their signal from input 3/4 (front door speakers)
    - Headliner will be on input 1/2 and I will not be using the outputs.
    - I am also planning on running a switched 12v source to power the LCQ-1 so I do not have to worry about the headliner speakers if I decide to disconnect them in the future.

    And here are some fun pictures from work to keep everyone occupied while Fedex does their work.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  7. Sep 19, 2012 at 8:31 AM
    #7
    evanmb31

    evanmb31 Well-Known Member

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    ImageUploadedByTapatalk1348068634.872854.jpg I mean something like this, but underneath both seats and eliminating the rear center console. I would guess you would have enough volume for two shallow mount tens
     
  8. Sep 19, 2012 at 9:25 AM
    #8
    sbarnesvta

    sbarnesvta [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I got ya, I might end up with something like that eventually, but the second I start cutting into the truck it is a very slippery slope :D
     
  9. Sep 22, 2012 at 6:08 PM
    #9
    sbarnesvta

    sbarnesvta [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I finished up building the sub box this morning, it is a lot smaller than I expected. I really miss having access to my dads cabinet building shop, but it turned out pretty well for the tools I currently have available.

    The box should leave me with .45cuft of airspace in a sealed box, which is perfect for this sub.

    I am going to get everything tuned and see what I can get out of this sub in this box, if I cannot get the tone I want I am going to build a bandpass box for it. I have had good luck with them in the past.

    Here are some pics.

    IMG_0629.jpeg
    IMG_0630.jpeg
    IMG_0631.jpeg
    IMG_0632.jpeg
     
  10. Sep 22, 2012 at 6:12 PM
    #10
    sbarnesvta

    sbarnesvta [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Parts are starting to show up,

    - Just about all the wiring (4awg power cable, 8awg grounds, 16awg speaker wire, 12awg speaker wire, 1', 3' and 6' RCA's)
    - Front door speakers, sub and 1 of the amps has shown up.


    The LCQ-1 is on the way, and the sub amp is on backorder.

    I still need to figure out a distribution block for power for the amps, any ideas?

    IMG_0633.jpg
    IMG_0634.jpg
     
  11. Sep 22, 2012 at 6:26 PM
    #11
    tango down

    tango down Policy Ninja

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    what do your amps power cables need to be? 8gauge? If you need 8 ga. I have a 4gauge block that seperates into 2-4 8 gauge. ten bucks? no pressure, just trying to help.

    I am doing the LCQ6 into a 2012 DC. I wanted to keep the steering wheel, xm, bluetooth, and volume controls for now, which is why i didnt go the DSP route.
     
  12. Sep 22, 2012 at 7:24 PM
    #12
    sbarnesvta

    sbarnesvta [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Can you shook me a pic of the distro block to sbarnesvta@gmail.com?

    4Awg input split into 8awg outputs will be fine for what I am running.

    I was looking at the LCQ6, but you are limited to the tuning of the stock headunit. I figured if I was going to dump the money into a new sound system, I might as well spend the extra $100.00 and get all the eq filters in the LCQ-1. It has all the same features, but add the EQ for all 6 channels.
     
  13. Sep 22, 2012 at 8:32 PM
    #13
    tango down

    tango down Policy Ninja

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    i'll snap a pic tomorrow or monday. Whenever I get back to the garage. I bought it and then went with amps that require 4 gauge power.

    I ended up with the 6 because I got a decent deal on it. Mobile audio hobby could definately take over my life. I am trying for a small, affordable build (lol). My ears suck and the amount of money it takes to make huge noticable gains in SQ is beyond my means.

    I think I'll be happy with the 6 for about 2 years. At which time, i'll scrap my XM subscription and change head units. Then the hot h/u right now will be affordable for me.

    btw, the block is a $8 one from sonicelectronics. Non fused, pheonix or other regular type one. Nothing fancy. I am just breaking wven with shipping, but the thing is useless to me.
     
  14. Sep 23, 2012 at 7:41 PM
    #14
    sbarnesvta

    sbarnesvta [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I am going to pass if it is not fused, If I was running the same amps I would be all over it, but I am going to put different sized fuses for the amps I will be running. I was digging through my garage this morning and actually found an old one buried in the bottom on an old box of goodies from my last car.
     
  15. Sep 23, 2012 at 7:52 PM
    #15
    sbarnesvta

    sbarnesvta [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Made a little more progress today while I am waiting for the rest of the parts to show up.

    First project to finish the sub.

    I am using Nuetrik Connectors for the sub. The box gets a Panelmount NL4 connector, and the speaker wire gets a NL2 Connector. They are simple to install, but do require soldering, but it is airtight and a very secure connection.

    I am going this route in case I need to remove the box, I do not have to deal with frayed wires and reinstalling will only take seconds.

    IMG_0635.jpg
    IMG_0636.jpeg
    IMG_0638.jpeg
     
  16. Sep 23, 2012 at 7:55 PM
    #16
    sbarnesvta

    sbarnesvta [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Forgot to add a picture of the sub finished up.

    IMG_0639.jpg
     
  17. Sep 23, 2012 at 8:05 PM
    #17
    sbarnesvta

    sbarnesvta [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I also got about 90% of the wiring in the truck done.
    There was quite a bit of wiring that went into this one.
    (7) runs of 16ga speaker wire
    (1) run of 12 ga speaker wire
    (1) run of 4ga power wire
    (1) run of 8ga power wire

    The first picture is the bundle of cable feeding the inputs to the LCQ-1 and outputs from one of the amps.

    Second is all the cable going into the dash that will terminate at the back of the head unit.

    Third is an option for power distribution, there is a main fuse for the whole setup that feeds the distro block that feeds the amps and accessories.


    Last picture is the wiring diagram for the whole setup.

    IMG_0641.jpeg
    IMG_0642.jpeg
    IMG_0643.jpg
    Screen Shot 2012-09-23 at 7.21.31 PM.jpg
     
  18. Sep 23, 2012 at 8:13 PM
    #18
    evanmb31

    evanmb31 Well-Known Member

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    Looks good man, did you round over all the edges with a router on ur sub box? How was painting the mdf i know that stuff really soaks up paint on the end grains and its hard to make it look uniform, your finish looks like it came out really good.
     
  19. Sep 23, 2012 at 8:32 PM
    #19
    sbarnesvta

    sbarnesvta [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Yea I used a 1/2" 1/4 round bit to soften all the edges.

    Painting MDF is always a PITA, Here are a couple things to try.

    - Make a solution of 3/4 wood glue 1/4 water, I put it on with a small paint brush, let it dry for a couple hours than sand it smooth. It will seal up the end of the wood and allow you to paint it.

    - For this project, I used 5 or 6 coats of sandable primer by rustoleum. I sanded the box between each coat. It seemed to seal the box up enough to paint with a good enamel spray paint. If I had to do it again I would probably try a thick roll on paint vs the spray paint, but I didn't want to dump too much time into this box as it is just going to be a test box.
     
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