2012+ Tacoma V6 Block Heater Install

I will check out the price at local dealer for you in the AM

 

Awesome thanks a lot! This will really help me out for the upcoming winter in nebraska

 

Just to be sure too please double check it is not a freeze plug heater and also let the dealer know the block heater is for a 2014 tacoma 4.0 because the part number is different than all the other years

 

Here's the scoop

According to the local dealer, both the 13 and 14 use the same part. I had him verify that the numbers were the same. It is the kit with the socket that is installed by the fog light etc.

P/N PU140-00911

$160 CAD for the part
$340 CAD for install

From what I can see, there are 50 different part numbers and configurations for the block heater, crazy.

Edit:

I also got a price of $316 for part and install at Kingston Toyota, they claim 1 1/2 hour of labour.

 

Hey gerrrr I really appreciate the help, are you willing to make a transaction and also shipping to the states?

 

In case anyone is still looking for the proper part number and a vendor I found this:

http://trdparts4u.toyotaofdallas.com/ProdPD/All-ApplicationChartTOYOTA.pdf

According to that chart my truck takes PU140-00907

http://trdparts4u.toyotaofdallas.com/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=-9921

cost says $60

 

Huge shout out to Thumper. I was at my wits end trying to get that stupid bolt undone. I tried from underneath, I tried from on top...I tried staring at it, hoping my Jedi powers would loosen it...I was ready to toss in the towel and take it to the stealership. Taking off the tire worked great though and made the job much easier. I didn't have a 4-wheeler winch so I set up my socket with the handle pointing downward and used a bar and rubber mallet to shwack it couple times. After the bolt broke loose, it was smooth sailing. The heater install took more time than was expected (about 2 hours with included lunch break), but was super easy after taking off the wheel. Now to figure out what my next mod will be...

 

Hey guys. Sorry for bringing this thread back, but thought I'd just add to it with my experience:

I bought my 2009 TRD OR brand new in 2008 and had the dealer put the heater in.

(RANT ALERT!!: I still have the paperwork for that and they actually charged me a couple hours labor AND coolant! You don't need to drain the coolant because this cartridge simply slides into the hole on the left-rear part of the block that is designed for it!)

Anyway, I tested the cord that came with it and it isn't registering any resistance so I believe the cord is bad, or maybe both the cord and element. I ordered a new one (

Kat's 11813 Engine heater

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004IHLY3I?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_product_details), but even though Amazon and KAT'S state the 11813 part # is correct, it is NOT the correct item after attempting to install it just about an hour ago. That part is for the 3rd Gen's. The difference between the two is that the KAT'S KH11813 is a complete cylinder while the OEM part has a flat edge cut into the length of the cylinder.

For my 2009 TRD OR 4.0L, made in Canada and bought in UT, the correct part # is: C0140-00889
Toyota Canada part number: PU140-00902
Toyota U.S.A. part number: 00113-00213-00902
(previous part #:00213-00889 or 00213-00885 or 00213-00900)

So what this boils down to for me, now, is I have to return my Amazon order of the 11813 and then go into town tomorrow to see if Napa carries a replacement for my OEM heater. They DO have the cord, which I may try and see if that lights up my old element plug. We shall see...

 

Why would you expect the cord to have resistance? That makes no sense to me. It’s a conductor.

 

Because if you do a resistance test (Ohms setting at 200, which is also testing continuity on some multimeters) through the entire copper line from end-to-end of the wire loom, you should get some kind of resistance and a low-value reading, which I do get on the new wiring. But if you don't get any reading at all, then that means you have a disconnect somewhere along that line because the red and black probes can't communicate and the multimeter will simply do nothing.

 

OK -- so you're saying you don't have continuity in your supply line? Why not say it that way! Many multimeters have a audible tone setting for that -- usually no need for checking for *very* tiny resistances.