2012 TPMS light Disabled

I need to disable the mod that the previous owner did to my truck. I would like to get the light to come one before my tires goes all flat due to a nail I got in a construction site without it happening in the freeway again.

 

Reverse the process.

 

Just did this. Love it. Don't want to get new tires just yet nor spend the time getting the sensors installed. 15 minutes and light is gone. I used post #161 with a switch best quick mod ever.

 

Reading the thread. This might be helpful you drop pressure before off-roading and don’t want to look at the light.

 

That too. It's nice having control

 

I did this now my Airbag light stays on I think I will put it all back and spend the $30 for new sensors I'm not messing with Airbag problems.

Update 3hrs later

I was at work and had to come back to this and now the light is off but I am still getting new sensors for only $29 for when I give this truck to my daughter.

 

Has anyone tried the method of accessing the harness behind the passenger side floor board? I saw a video on YouTube showing where the guy cut the blue wire and grounded it to an above bolt. Anyone have success doing this? It's much easier to access than the method behind the HVAC controls.

 

Yes didn't work for me. I have a '12 Sport. Behind the HVAC controls really isn't too bad. A little tedious but can be done.

 

I know this is an old thread…but I just want to thank Vigo for posting this. I just did it to my 2012 and it works perfectly. I was able to complete it by just removing the ac/heat controls and the blank toggle switch openings. After connecting the wires together….take a minute and get the cuss words out, have a drink or two (if that’s your thing), and start trying to put the connector back in the tpms box.

it’s tight. I was able to line it up and get it started…then used a butter knife inserted through one of the toggle switch openings to seat it.

I don’t want to resurrect the debate on doing this. Like others, I have multiple sets of wheels and regularly air down during hunting season. For my situation it is the final solution to an annoyance.

Thank you again Vigo!

 

I'll be doing this weekend. After nearly 10 years, my 2014 must finally have a bad sensor or battery. Thanks for posting! Don't know how you got your hands in there, gonna take some patience!

 

Thanks OP. Not too bad, worked perfectly on the 2014

 

Worked perfectly on my 2011. I ended up using a straight pass through to connect the wires and just crimping the s*** out of it rather than the 2 in 1 out splicer that some have posted. To get the connector plugged back in the easiest way I found was put the connector in between your index and middle finger and go in with your palm facing up and you can slowly work it into the port. Very tedious and lots of cursing but the light is out! Thanks OP!

 

I used the splicer a few months ago and it failed after a while. I'd get an intermittent tpms light because the connection was loose. I just went back in, stripped the blue wire, and wrapped it around a bare part of the wire still going into the harness...slapped some tape on it. Should be a more permanent solution than the splicer.

 

Yes: Don't do it. "Just say no". The Car Care Nut has a recent video on a $750 repair disaster caused basically by changing out a few tail-lamp bulbs to LED's. This was on a virtually brand-new 3rd Gen Tacoma. The wiring is very complicated and unconventional on these trucks and doesn't suffer fools/mods lightly. The result of this simple change ended up being a destroyed fuse-module something-or-other that the body control module is piggy-backed on.

The owner added resistors to try and correct glitchy lights, and: "POOF".

 

I have a 2012 Tacoma Base and my box is brown, not blue and I'm not seeing a connector in the location of your picture. Any thoughts? Many thanks in advance...

 

Bump time…

2012 Regular Cab 4x4, I have a brown box, not blue. Connector is on the bottom. You can technically pop out a blank switch cover or two to help get in there, but just love yourself and pull the radio (at least unbolt it). You’ll have much more room to do a better job with the wires and it’ll be 100x easier to plug back into the TPMS box. If not, a screwdriver or something similar through the accessory hole for leverage and using your fingers to line up from the top is the way to go.

OP is my hero of the day!

 

Contemplating this as the next work for my dad’s truck, no sensors, he uses valve caps and checks visually.

Am I correctly understanding that the cluster doesn’t have a halogen bulb? It’s all LED?

 

Just wanted to add to this, removing the stereo is a must to even reach that connector which by the way worked for my 2015. I also removed the surrounding air vent.

I tried doing the other method with cutting power to the TPMS from driver kick panel and grounding a blue wire from the glove box side which did not work. That method has a blue and green wire in the glove box connector but mine also had a black wire. Toyota likes to change things up.