2013 4.0 - Cranks, doesnt start. Sudden fuel pump failure?

Gotcha. Ok trying to get it removed. Having trouble removing the connector in a tight space. Sure would be nice to have it inside the garage and warmer and not dark!

 

Ok, I understand you now.
So OP needs to run power directly to pin #2 (red/black) of the resistor
plug

 

Yes, that would tell us if the fuel pump can run.
I find it interesting that the secondary air pump runs at key off even though the engine wasn't running that would be his "vacuum cleaner" sound, but anyway one thing at a time.

 

I read that, but I don’t have SAIS.
So I didn’t know when it was supposed to run?
Good thing we have guys like you here that know this stuff


I still wondering why no power to the Fuel Pump relay?
But that’s beside the point currently.
I’d do just as you said, check the pump first.

 

Ok finally got that stubborn connector off.

So, the recommendation is to bring a 12V power directly to the red/black (from the battery positive?).
Or jumping between #1 and #2?

 

Jump power to the Red/Black wire and see if the pump runs.

 

Connected wire from battery to red/black wire. Do not think it engaged the pump. Had my wife listen for it as I make the connection. I had her try to start it while holding the connection as well. No change.

The wire was too thick to get fully in the terminal connected to that red/black wire, but it was definitely touching metal so I assume was getting power to it.

 

If you are using 14 gauge house wire?
You might need to smash it flat with a hammer to get it to fit in the connector?

 

Yes, using romex house wire. Ill hammer it in or slice a little off to get it to fit better.

I do appreciate both of you for your help. I have a hockey game to go play so I guess I gotta ride in the minivan tonight! Probably pick this back up when I have daylight.

 

Yea just be careful not to spread the terminals in the connector.
If your confident your making contact try hitting the bottom of the fuel tank with a hammer and see if the pump takes off.

 

Hopefully that’s it. Even though it’s no fun to do a fuel pump.
At least you’ll know what the problem is.



(Still curious as to why no power to the fuel pump relay?)
Maybe there was something “wrong”. He did say the meter was jumping all around?

 

I don’t remember how thin of something I used when probing that stuff. If op doesn’t have something that fits, try things like a paper clip, a pin (for sewing) or a brad nail. DONT force it and damage the connector.

The dancing numbers on the meter, I’ve seen cheaper meters do that connected to nothing, which is why now I own a Fluke, actually 3 now. Trying to show a customer their issue, they ask why the numbers are bouncing, I mumble because my meter is cheap.

 

Yea those work great in a pinch as long as the connector isn't too small, since I do electrical diag quite alot I have a set of dedicated male and female test terminals with banana ends.

Another reason I prefer a test light to check for power unless I need to know actual voltage, if the light is on bright I got power if it's not on or it's dim I know I got a problem.
If I need to substitute a load I use a 5 amp headlight bulb.

 

Ok, this morning I got a male crimp connector to try powering the red/black wire that was connected to the resistor again with a better connection. No change.

I tapped on the tank with a rubber mallet while trying to start, no change.

I rechecked the socket connections for the Fuel Pump and C/Opn relays again. Fuel pump has no power. I only get readings in the mV range.
For the C/Opn I get 12V at #2 and #5 only.

Would jumping power directly to the Fuel Pump relay socket be worth trying and if so, which one? #5?

 

I’m not sure if this will help but I had a similar problem with my truck and after having it at the dealer and having the fuel pump replaced this is what they finally found. After repairs were made I haven’t had a problem since.

 

Thanks, I searched that info and found other threads discussing the same issue and resolution.


One of those threads suggested testing this connector. Anyone tell me where this is?

https://www.tacomaworld.com/media/fuel-pump-test.658155/

(here is other thread: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/fuel-delivery-issues-2013-v6.661519/page-2)

 

Go back to that second thread and read page one it seems the plug is located in the drivers side footwell .

 

I saw that the connector with pin 8 is located there, and I will certainly be going to check that out. But there was also a 2 pin connector shown recommending to put 12V power to it to directly power the pump for a few seconds to see if that is the issue. Just not sure where that one is.

 

I just read through that myself it seems to sound like the fuel pump harness itself, the 2 pin connector. Might be thats located somewhere outside the fuel tank I would assume.

 

2013+ V6 trucks have a purge cycle at shutdown. Makes the same vacuum cleaner sounds as a cold start. So at least that aspect sounds normal to me.

The "continuous humming" you mention in the first post might be the electronic brake booster, if your truck has one? Its super faint in the video.