2014 access cab door speakers

Bxmarauder · Mar 22, 2016

weendoggy said: ↑

Not sure if you're asking me, but I stayed with the stock HU and you should allow a couple of days to do an anal job. If you want to butcher it, it can be done in less time. I pulled out the center console and driver seat to have ample room to work. The rest of the time is spent routing wiring and making good connections.
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I'm anal as well , for that reason I hate to do technical things lol

Bxmarauder · Mar 22, 2016

zinger said: ↑

You'll need an amp that has speaker level inputs if you're going to connect the amp directly to the HU.
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Going to use the same amp Weendoggy used!

Bxmarauder · Mar 22, 2016

weendoggy said: ↑

Finally got my Clarion XC1410 installed in the truck. What a difference along with my previous speaker upgrade. I have it documented in the attached .pdf file if anyone's interested. I spent about 1.5 days doing the install along with mounting my trailer brake control in the E-brake space for standard transmissions (I have AT).

I also found out that you need to wire the "5th" wire in the rear speaker plug to the radio/harness. If you don't, you don't get the fade feature. I utilized one of the unused male/female connector wires in each of the Metra plugs to make the connection in the rear plug. Now, I do have fade when all hooked up. They sound better so I'm leaving them alone for now.

The radio sounds so much better at low volume now. I can have it around 20 and it sounds great. Yes, it'll blow you out of the cab for sure and all I wanted was clean sound. Also glad I didn't install a powered sub-woofer, there's plenty of bass in the sound.

All the wiring is soldered and used heat shrink. Don't need any problems later on. I also installed plug-ins so I can replace the unit without hacking up the wiring again.

Nice clean job and still have a lot of room under my seat.
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Great job! Excellent thread and pdf, now to get up the nerve!

Goofball · May 18, 2016

weendoggy said: ↑

Finally got my Clarion XC1410 installed in the truck. What a difference along with my previous speaker upgrade. I have it documented in the attached .pdf file if anyone's interested. I spent about 1.5 days doing the install along with mounting my trailer brake control in the E-brake space for standard transmissions (I have AT).

I also found out that you need to wire the "5th" wire in the rear speaker plug to the radio/harness. If you don't, you don't get the fade feature. I utilized one of the unused male/female connector wires in each of the Metra plugs to make the connection in the rear plug. Now, I do have fade when all hooked up. They sound better so I'm leaving them alone for now.

The radio sounds so much better at low volume now. I can have it around 20 and it sounds great. Yes, it'll blow you out of the cab for sure and all I wanted was clean sound. Also glad I didn't install a powered sub-woofer, there's plenty of bass in the sound.

All the wiring is soldered and used heat shrink. Don't need any problems later on. I also installed plug-ins so I can replace the unit without hacking up the wiring again.

Nice clean job and still have a lot of room under my seat.
Click to expand...

One major issue with this install: The fuse on the power to an amplifier should always be as close to the battery as possible, not at the amp. The point isn't to protect the amp, it's to guard against the heavy gauge power wire having a short to ground and turning into one long heating element supplied by hundreds of amps at the battery. I've seen vehicles turned into burned down wrecks by improper amp power wire fusing.

With the installation as shown in the PDF you have several feet of wire run through areas with potential for pinch points and friction rub/wear. All it takes is a little tiny spot worn through in the jacket on the positive power wire and suddenly things are smoking.

weendoggy · May 19, 2016

Goofball said: ↑

One major issue with this install: The fuse on the power to an amplifier should always be as close to the battery as possible, not at the amp. The point isn't to protect the amp, it's to guard against the heavy gauge power wire having a short to ground and turning into one long heating element supplied by hundreds of amps at the battery. I've seen vehicles turned into burned down wrecks by improper amp power wire fusing.

With the installation as shown in the PDF you have several feet of wire run through areas with potential for pinch points and friction rub/wear. All it takes is a little tiny spot worn through in the jacket on the positive power wire and suddenly things are smoking.
Click to expand...

If you're sloppy in your install, anything can happen. The point is to protect the best you can. The wire isn't in a pinch point and is well protected, except for a side impact which would damage a lot more. I see a lot of "butt" connectors, quick splices, etc. used by people on many forums that are far worse for "electrical issues" than what I've done. But, that's just my opinion. As far as placing the fuse close to the battery, it does no good if the short happens on the battery side.

dlawrence529 · Aug 25, 2017

nxrunner said: ↑

Did the same up grade. I used BHO 1761 & BHA 1761 to connect my Alpine 445U without cutting the stock harness. Got everything back together only to realize I do not have any radio illumination, only the touch screen is lit. Which wires do I need to hook up? The orange from both its? please
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I'm looking to install an Alpine 445U in my 2015. Did you ever find a solution to this?

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