2015 4cyl - Will Crank, No Fuel, No OBD, Stuck in park

Hey guys, would a crackling speaker (sounds like a blown speaker) that started happening maybe a month or two earlier need to be checked? I can pull the door panels and unhook speaker connectors etc...

Actually, I'd like to unhook the entire stereo system if possible to eliminate anything the stereo shop did a couple of years ago. Speakers run to the back as well that are not hooked up and I did not like the way they stabbed for power for the cig lighters. I undid the stab and it appears no ground there.

There is power to the IGN 1 & IGN 2 fuses in the passenger compartment as told by the test light. I can check for specific voltage if you wish.

 

I seriously doubt it.

 

Do the turn signals work?
I ask because that’s the same ground junction that’s used for the shift lock control.
J4/J5

 

I wouldn't think so, speakers are controlled by the radio. Something related to this could be affecting the radio and speakers but it's more likely an effect rather than a cause.

I'd concentrate on fixing the shift interlock problem as most likely fixing that will fix both issues.

 

I've read through this whole thread carefully twice to try to be sure I'm current on it & try to help puzzle it out. I'm interested to learn why the scantool wont even connect to the ECM. Some additional questions about the scan tool:

- Have you used this scantool successfully with this truck in the past?
- Does this scantool have its own on-board power (i.e. built-in battery) or does it only come on when you turn the ignition to ON?

- When you turn the ignition to ON (not trying to start,) do the gauge cluster indicator lights look & behave normally? In my 2014 AC 4.0L MT, the indicator lights in the ignition-ON position, before starting the engine, behave as follows:

Turn key to ON position -- all the indicator lights on the gauge cluster light up at once, for a couple of seconds. (A self-test showing that all the lights are functional.)

Then, after a couple of seconds most of the lights go out, with a couple staying on longer as they run through subsystem self-tests.

By about 8-10 seconds or so, only these lights remain on, and stay on indefinitely: Seatbelt, battery, check engine, and oil.

----

Does your truck continue to display that normal progression of gauge-cluster indicator lights when you turn the key to ON? (Without trying to start the engine.)

 

I know you check couple of fuses for EFI/ECT and such
Normally with fuses/electrical issues. I would probe(test light) all the fuses underhood and dash just to make all other fuses are OK. KOEO.
If you have checked all fuses... Carry on.

 

NEW OBD UNIT IN HAND - INNOVA 3100RS - READIMG THE QUICK START
Just got back at it and am working on answering five great questions: as well as purchasing
1. Do the blinkers work?
Yes, TnShooter they do. I missed that question yesterday. Thanks!

On the dash & light clusters and how the display once the key has been turned to the accessory position:
Theses can be noted when I first turn the key to Acc:
TOP ROW: Seat belt, door open,

2ND ROW: THE AUTO LSD light is on for a second then goes off, to the right of it is the ABS (!) warning light. It flashes once then STAYS ON. The TRAC OFF light is displayed then goes out immediately, and the ANTI-SKID drawing stays on without any blinking.

THIRD ROW: Air bag light stays on, then to the right the MAINT REQ light flashes eight times then goes out and the TRACTION CONTROL OFF illustration blinks once then goes off.

CENTER SPEEDO AREA: The Oil light on center speedo area STAYS ON.
I do know that the Oil light stays on which has been a question of mine through this ordeal. I have maintained (oil changed this truck every 2500 miles since I got it), and never has an oil light done this. As an FYI, the oil is at the full mark and looks light brown. It is time (by the calendar) for a change, yes.

THE RIGHT WINDOW OF THE INSTRUMENT GAUGES: The GREEN P light and the red BRAKE light is on and stays on.

Ok, I am currently reading up on the INNOVO 3100 OBDII scanner (with a Repair Solutions2 phone app) scanner / Bluetooth connection and will plug that in ASAP. Any advice on what the hell to scan is appreciated! Thanks for everyone's input.

As well, when it stops pouring rain, I will do a full detailed report on the fuses/ their voltage, the best relay report I can manage etc.. ... and some of that might not make it here today.
I picked up an INNOVA POWERED CIRCUIT TESTOR 6v-24v as well today. Not sure how to use it and if possible, I'll try and test any specific fuses or circuits, if I am mentally capable!

The last thing I want to do at this point is tow it to the dealership (and its a pretty good one). But.... ya, I'll be STUCK THERE TOO! Thanks

 

The Check Engine light never came on?

 

I do not remember TnShooter if it came on when all of this started happening or quite possibly when the maintenance / oil change and at 30,000+ miles another maintenance procedure was due. I don't want to mislead you : ))

 

It should come on and the go off, like the ones above you reported.

 

It blinks eight times then goes off. My bad.

 

The CEL should come on and stay on with the key on and engine not running.

 

That would be the Maint Reqd light, that's just an oil change reminder.
@TnShooter is asking about the Check Engine light (CEL)

 

The CHECK ENGINE LIGHT does not come on Dm93. The red OIL light is on upper right of that area.

 

Then the ECM is not responding.
You will not get the scanner to work until you get the ECM online.

 

To be honest, it’s been a long time since I paid any attention to that light.
I knew it came, but wasn’t sure when it was supposed to go out.

 

The EFI fuse is one of the main power feeds to the ECM.
I will see if I can pull up the 2TR ECU terminals.
You may have more than one issue.

 

I hit the "Like" button TnShooter because there was not a sad face button!! LOL

 

The PCM has to turn on the EFI Relay before the EFI Fuse will have power, for it to do that the PCM has to be powered up.
I still think we are dealing with a main power or ground issue since the shift interlock isn't working either.
OP is there anything else on the truck that isn't working that you know of that might give some more clues?

 

So we have established that the EFI 20A fuse is good.
If it wasn’t you would not have had power to Pin #5 of the EFI relay.
What we don’t know is, if pin #3 (E5) of ECM has power.

We also need to check grounds.

Power here


Grounds here