2015 4cyl - Will Crank, No Fuel, No OBD, Stuck in park

Why are you checking E21-12?
That’s for the 4WD Actuator.

Check the ones mentioned above.
E21-12 isn’t of a concern right now

 

Check these for now.

 

Also, you won’t see power on E22-12 unless you back probe the ECM when it’s hooked up.

 

That was a typo on pin 12. Ok, that was the lamest attempt on my part to check those pins at night..in the rain.... as everything that could have b unattached from the magnets (my lights), the makeshift needles for the pin testing getting swept away in the gutter of rushing water and then getting stuck under the steering wheel and sharp shreds of plastic and metal that dug into my hips and lower back that I'm sure left noticeable marks that are going to stay there for at least a couple of weeks. I SUCK...sometimes.

So, breakfast is on me. Save your receipts! lol I am determined to do this in a civilized manner and get the voltage. Please allow me to reattach a few fingertips and reinvent this pin testing tool. Actually, now that most of the dash plastic is gone (somewhere .. I did not look as I tossed it behind me in frustration), this next round should be way more civilized and not as embarrassing to talk about.

 

I’ve been there too.
Take your time, we’ll be here.
We aren’t going anywhere

At this point, even I want to figure out the problem.

 

Yea definitely not ideal circumstances to be testing things, I'd like to find the issue too but no need to be doing it in the dark and rain if you don't have to.

 

I like where this thread is heading. Seems a fair chance it'll turn out to be a bad ground which, once fixed, hopefully returns everything to normal at once. ECU gets power, engine cranks and runs normally, and of course the scanner will then talk to the ECU as expected.

 

Let me know if you need a new ECM. I have one available that I can ship out immediately.

 

My $ is on the ecm

 

Wouldn't explain not being able to shift out of park.

 

Damn

 

The second Pin #22 was really hard to get to but I am 99% sure it had not voltage. I was a little afraid to pull on the harness any harder than I did because it was so cold and it didn't feel right. Even if these results go with your current thoughts, I'd sure like a chance to pull the harness and make sure I get you accurate results on that. Just wanted to keep you posted.

I spent a pretty good amount of time photographing and video taping as many areas behind the dash that I could and am going to review them carefully to look for any grounding, broken wires etc.. Thanks everyone.

 

Well the PCM definitely wouldn't power up if there's no power at that pin, it comes from the IGN fuse through Pin 15 for connector 1I (Beige Wire).
1I is on the back of the Body ECU/Interior Fuse box, not easy to get to but you might unplug it if you can and look for corrosion/burnt pins.

 

Got it Dm93. I'll definitely take a list from whoever wants something checked. I can;t let go of the truck not coming out of Park myself. I said that in the opening and let me know if the Ign switch seems 100% good-to-go, because something is telling me to check the wiring leaving the switch, although it is a new switch. Just feeling' it because the truck does not know the key is on (or something like that)! When the truck is ready to start... it will come out of Park as well. That my big bet!

Please get me any requests for things to check. Much appreciated.

 

Are we 100% positive we have power to BOTH sides of the IGN fuse?

Are we 100% sure we have power to BOTH sides of the IGN fuse?

Maybe try 1C-13 first, it gets power from the same fuse.
Just because we can, and it’s easy to get to, and it joins in the same junction box?

 

Will do TnShooter. Let me give this post a little time to gather some of these GREAT questions and as always much appreciated, "The TacomaWorld Stray!"

 

Well that leg of the Ignition Switch also feeds the Gauge Fuse so if it was dead the Cluster wouldn't work.
I'm with @TnShooter verify the IGN fuse has power on both sides.

 

Not TLDR but I didn’t read it all.

Have you verified the transmission connections? Linkage and wiring? Could the release solenoid be bad?

 

That would be a good idea if we were just dealing with the shift interlock but the PCM is offline as well.

 

What’s the current battery voltage? Or I should say what voltage are you getting to the PCM? Other models, relays, and fuses in question?

Also have you changed your fob battery?