2016 BBP audio build

I did not use the factory tweeters. I used components.

1) I used Mr. Marv's adapters in the factory tweeter location.
2) Ran the wires from the new tweeters down to the crossover, which is mounted with very strong velcro above the kick panels.
3) Ran new speaker wire from the crossover into the doors. Wiped down the new wire with alcohol, and it slid right through the factory boots.
4) Cut the front speaker wires in the metra harness, and ran that wire to the input of the crossovers.

It sounds involved, but it's super easy.

My build is somewhat documented in this thread. Start at post# 268

 

I just ran wires from the crossovers strait to the new door speakers and the new tweeters. I have no idea why anyone would want to run exta wires back to the head unit just to use the stock wires. Seems like a lot of extra work for nothing.

 

Gentleman - couple of questions re sound deadening. Mr Marv should be sending my sub box soon so I thought I would get started finally!

I purchased RAAMaudio sound deadener that Marv had good reviews about. Marv I believe you said to be careful putting deadener near your box b/c fit may be too tight? That back wall is really thin - especially with my Magnaflow cat-back exhaust. Would really like to deaden back wall if possible. Any input from any of you re this process?

I was going to deaden the whole flooring but there appears to be a thick padding on most of it so I think I will just add to floor where it is noisy.

I pulled one of the rear speakers out - what a piece of junk. Barely weighs more than a few sheets of paper. Any advice on deadening door? Do I need to keep that clear plastic after I apply deadener? I've heard I need to apply deadener behind the speaker hole - how much area should I cover?

 

You can't put any sound deadner directly behind the box. You can put sound deadner above the first rib on the back wall share the vents are. You can see it in this pic. I'm not sure if your box is going to be like mine are from Mr Marv though and you will not want to put any under the boxes either.

 

As far as putting deadner behind the door speakers, that comes down to who you ask. Some say to cover as much as you can and others say to justhe put small amounts on the panels. I didn't fully cover my doors, just pieces on the larger flat areas that I could get to. I didn't go crazy with it. I did put a piece of deadner the size of the flat exposed panel directly behind the speakers in the doors.

 

Jeremy- thanks for your reply. Geo I see that you put Dynamite on that back wall. Were you able to get it directly behind the box?

Also, what is the fabric you guys are using to cover the box? I'm assuming none on the bottom or back of the box?

 

I put a sheet around the speaker opening and on the inside of the door skin behind the speaker in all 4 doors. My stereo sounds incredible. I didn't put anything on the back wall, but may do that in the future. I plan to replace the back plastic with molle panel at some point.

I used this stuff. http://www.ballistic-online.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=2

Use gloves when you're working it in because it'll slice your fingers up quick.

 

No problem man. It's a really tight fit with the boxes, if I had to go back and do it all again I would still listen to @Mr Marv and leave the dynamat off the back wall behind the boxes. He knows so much and has been doing this for so long it would be stupid not to listen to him.

As for the carpet, I used some I got from Amazon. Do not put it on the back or bottom of the box. You can carpet the first rib from the floor though to get a super clean look.

$40 Absolute C10BK 10-Feet Long/4-Feet Wide Black Carpet for Speaker Sub Box Carpet rv Truck Car Trunk Liner

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0058OR1YG/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Also if you want to ask a specific member a question like you did Geo, tag him with an @ sign before their name and they will know you are talking to them. Like this... @neoogeoo.

 

I really need to hear this system in person, Jeremy. Or, maybe I really shouldn't hear it as the case may be...

 

Anytime brotha.

 

Thx guys. As I get closer to actually installing I'm afraid I will be asking lots of questions. ( Thx Jeremy for the 101 re @... New to this social media thing!)

My rear crossovers seem pretty big. I'm going to install my smaller front crossovers behind front kick panels - do you guys think I should install BOTH inside kick panel? I am planning to install my amp and LOC in the rear by my sub. I don't want to put anything in under seats and would like to save the storage area under rear seats

 

I don't think both of them will fit behind the kick panels honestly.

No problem on the help with the social media stuff...This is the extent of my social media usage too.

What are you running for the rest of your system if you don't mind me asking?

 

1. Audio Control LC8i - 8 channel Line Output Converter with Aux Input
2. Alpine 5 channel PDX amp
3. Focal 130KR (front)
4. Focal TNK K2 Power tweeter ( front)
5. Focal 130KRC (rear)

I am recycling this from my Mustang which I believe had a separate sub - thus the LC8i??

I will have to investigate where to put rear crossovers when box comes in?

Wiring question. I hooked up remote wire from Speedwire to red on Metra harness. That Blue remote goes into LOC Remote In. Remote Out of LOC to Remote In on amp. Question - is the amp only switched on by remote but draws from large 4g wire from battery when ON? Guess I was thinking amp was powered all the time since it is directly hooked up to battery

 

Sounds like that's going to be a great sounding system. What are you going to run for a sub?

The amp is only on when the remote tells it to turn on. The way you have it wired it will always be on as long as the truck is on.

 

JL 10" I believe. Marv suggested that one based on my needs.

Radio is almost always ON so prob ok then?

 

Actually, you got me thinking. Since my LOC has the GTO function where it turns on when it detects signal from the speakers I believe. Then I would not need to hook up remote from Speedwire. I thought there was an earlier post describing a delay and this was the solution. I guess I could "cap" the remote wire from the Speedwire and see if I have a delay and if so I can easily install remote into LOC?

Just trying to talk myself thru this process

 

JL 10 will sound good in the truck.

I have heard that gto function is not reliable. I would suggest just to stay with your original plan.

 

I had success with putting RAAMmat behind and under my box and it fit more snug than without. I also deadened the entire doors and cab minus roof because I did not want to drop the headliner at the time. It sounds great.

I think we both will have the same JL sub from Marv. Anywho, those crossovers will both not fit behind the kick panels up front. I have smaller ones and they barely fit for me. I would just run them on your enclosure or stuff under the center console if you can.

P.s. Refer to my thread

 

Dave - I have a 2016 Sport Access Cab and have sound deadened the entire cab
except the firewall and flooring. The firewall and flooring will be covered with 1 or
2 layers of EzCool (3/16" Closed Cell Foam (CCF) sandwiched between two layers
of aluminum foil) when Mr. Marv gets my box finished. The back wall is covered
completely with a layer of RaaMMat, a layer of Ensolite (high Density CCF), a layer
of EzCool and the PET sheet that Toyota had installed. I left both vents untouched.
Both rear posts are covered the same, as are the front doors. The roof has two
layers of EzCool, including above the headliner console (makes for cooler glass
frames). I left the plastic water barrier on the front doors (to protect against
moisture intrusion) and covered it with Ensolite. If you need any repairs on the
doors, technicians are familiar with the water barrier and know to remove/reinstall
it without damaging it. The front doors have Image Dynamics (ID) 6x9s and the
rear doors have 6/5 IDs I have an Audio Control DQ-61 ready for installation when
Mr. Marv ships my ARC IQ850-5 amp and ARC 8" sub in its custom box. While I
wait for components to arrive, I am designing/building a platform for Bella, our
Min-Pin.

 

Thanks @JasonT87 and all the other great input!

What's the name of your thread?

When you mention putting into "enclosure" I'm assuming the door pocket behind the speaker? If so I was concerned at first about putting electrical box back there but then again the speakers have exposed wire as well?? The other question/concern is that there is at least one switch/setting on the crossover which I am not familiar with. How likely is it that I would need to make adjustments?