2016 BBP audio build

I meant on your sub enclosure. I am not sure about putting them in the doors, you'll likely run into a problem mounting them. Then there is the question of whether they will be safe from the elements or not. What adjustments are on the crossovers? Perhaps that will guide your decision to mount them in an easily accessible space.

Thread is the 'JBL upgrade they didn't want you to have'

 

Hey Dave! In some cases I am down to a gnats behind just fitting certain subs in these trucks as most guys prefer to keep the plastic on the seatback and in those cases I typically recommend only putting deadener in the recessed areas below the rear wall stiffener and as Jeremy mentioned above the stiffener is OK. For those in that situation that are OK with removing the seatback plastic or doing a small modification with spacers to move the seatback forward a bit you'll be fine with deadener on the rear wall.

In any case the specific design I built for you allows me a little leeway and since I haven't had a chance to pack it yet I can trim a little from the lip on the back which will allow you to put deadener on the rear wall to knock some of that resonance down (don't get too excited about how quiet it will be as you can only do so much with deadener!)

BTW, I just had time to scan the rest of replies and noticed conversation concerning deadening the doors. My recommendation is to at minimum deaden around the speaker opening and use Fast Rings or weatherstipping to seal the front wave from the back wave. In my experience this will give you the greatest amount of initial benefit and anything else from there on will be icing on the cake as I like to say! BTW, if you don't seal the back wave from the front wave either by using the above methods or by covering the holes in the inner frame you will never get the full potential from your new speakers!

 

Thanks Marv! Good stuff. Jason mentioned possibly putting rear crossovers within sub enclosure. Any issues as far as significant sound quality etc? There are 2 adjustments - 1. High/Flat. 2. 0, -3, -6 dB. How often would I need access to those settings really?

 

@Mrmarv that would be great if you could adjust so I can put the RAAM product ( 2 layer system) on back wall. Is it possible to make adjustment so I can put underneath as well?

Sorry to keep bringing up crossover location so much. Car Toys said they often install behind speaker in door enclosures - having said that I will never take my car to them after they messed up my Mustang. Thoughts?

 

Sorry for filling up this thread with my issues.

Updates -
1. Mr. Marv said with my particular box he could make some minor adjustments to allow me to cover more of the back wall with sound deadener, but NOT under the box.
2. After removing back in prep for install, I was amazed how much road noise comes thru those two plastic vents on the back wall! I'm thinking the OEM plastic covering on the back wall probably insulated a lot of that noise. Wonder how it will be with the new sub box since I won't be able to reinstall the plastic trim behind the seats. I noticed there was a rubber matte that was draped over the vents when I removed everything. Can this go back on and will it help the noise coming thru the vents?
3. Even though Car Toys said it's ok to place crossovers INSIDE the doors, Mr. Marv strongly discouraged. Fortunately, there should be some room behind the sub box he said.

 

I noticed the noise from the vents as well. It's not that bad when the seats are in it and locked into place. The only time they will make noise is when you have the fresh air on, if you have it on recirculate then they don't make any noise.

I'm sure you can put that cover that was under the plastic pieces back on but I really don't know how much it will help.

If it bugs you just turn the loud stereo up, it will drown out the noise from the vents!!

 

@Mr Marv
Do you have any pictures of the finished product with the speakers? I just did an install recently and am planning on going back in to optimize my speaker mounting. Fast rings are not easily available up here in Canada from what I can see so I would be most interested in the weatherstripping method.

Thanks!

Steve

 

Can't wait to crank it up!

 

@Mrmarv I have never heard of these! I found these below on fastringsinc.com. Can you tell me based on my speakers which ones to order ? You are quite the wealth of knowledge

 

Attention to detail when sound deadening doors will make all the difference in the world. I've been slowly working on mine and will start a thread soon. This is a picture of my rear door 3/4 finished.

 

Steve...searching photobucket is a pain on my phone however I am sure I have posted pics on a thread here not too long ago so if you search my previous posts you should find them (If you do find them please post them here and if not I'll look when I get back to the computer)

Dave...I think I have a set somewhere and will look when I get back today

 

Sorry to hijack your thread again Jeremy but I know a lot of guys read it so I figured I'd take advantage of that to reach as many as I could!
My daughters illness took a little turn for the worse recently so we're back and forth to the hospital/doctors again lately. I don't get reception in some areas of the hospital or when traveling through the forest so if you get a message saying my line is out of service or I don't answer just send a text and I'll get back to you asap (don't worry about whether or not you are bothering me as some have mentioned since I'm just waiting around outside most of the time!)

 

@Choops very nice! I'm at a similar stage using RAAMaudio product. I do not have my adaptors for my speakers yet but I was wondering is it best to have the speakers installed before the deadener is applied around the speaker hole?? I don't know if the extra thickness affects the speakers hitting the door panel when it is reinstalled.

@Mr Marv - I talked to Jason at RAAM Audio and he said his system using the second layer ( Ensolite) essentially has the same affect as Fast Rings if applied properly. I have plenty of material so I will try his method first. Thanks. Prayers to you and your daughter

 

Thanks Dave.
The procedure is deadener, Ensolite, speaker adapter, speaker. What I was referring to is if you just do minimal deadener around the speaker opening and don't cover all of the holes with the deadener and/or foam you can use fast rings or weatherstripping to mimic what the factory did in order to seal the front wave from the back wave.

 

Mr Marv is correct in the order. I personally prefer to put the Ensolite on the back of the door panel instead of the door itself.

Here's a finished look at my doors:

 

That's no problem at at all Marv. I'm so sorry to hear this and my thoughts and prayers are with your family and your daughter.

 

Any opinions on speaker wires? Again, I am am reinstalling a system that Cartoys put in my Mustang. I'm starting to think that they took some shortcuts that I don't want to do on my Tacoma. Looks like they used 18g wire. Does it really matter if it's 16g or 18g?

 

What are the wires going to? If it is to your subs I wouldn't go 18g.

 

I just saw this on the "what have you done" thread. This is killer, may be my next mod.

http://www.beatsonicusa.com/if02ep.html

 

I guess I was thinking of my main and rear speakers - I think I have already decided to use 16g.

Should the wires to the sub be any different?