2016 BBP audio build

New to the forum here and I am trying to do a few upgrades to the audio.

Does anyone know at what volume the head unit starts to clip? (non-jbl)

 

With all the stock speakers or amplified? I feel like this is a vague question Alex. So many variables involved. I still need to fully tune my system bit I never get it above 37 because it's so loud with my setup as it sits. No clipping at all.

 

Welcome to tw btw Alex. Cool that your first post was in my thread.

 

I guess I should explain myself a bit more. Here is my current setup

-Hertz HSK 165 (front)
-Boston 8" sub
-Stock rear speakers
-Jl xd400/4
-Alpine mrx-m50
-Audison Bit ten

I am wanting to run active in the front and run the rears off deck power. I don't have an oscilloscope to see at which volume the head unit starts to clip.

Any input helps

 

@Aw9d you have any advice for Alex, you know I just go off my hearing and I still need to do a good tune on my truck.

 

I know that it's not just the volume of the head unit but your signal processor and your amp too. You should be able to get the head unit almost full blast and with the combined settings of all your components not have any distortion. Right @Aw9d?

 

I've found most newer head units when testing on my o-scope can go to 100% volume and front rear are not clipping at the RCA outputs. The sub however is always clipping and my pioneer needed a 4db drop to not clip.

I tested a stock HU in a 4runner and anything over 3/4 of volume clipped bad. It was an 07 however. My rule of thumb is nothing more than 3/4 for volume. Gain on amps should be next to nothing or no gain at all.

I can chime in more when I get back from Denver

 

Thanks for the information. I read a different thread where one person said that he didn't have clipping until volume 59 which is near max and I just wanted to verify.

Now the real task is tuning the bit ten. Haven't yet decided if I want to get an RTA and try to tune it myself or just hire it out.

 

As long as that person tested with an o-scope then it's valid. If he's just saying he can't hear clipping that's a different story. Most people can't hear clipping, especially on the tweeters.

 

Thanks for responding man. You know about the tuning and I don't at all. I've always just adjusted everything by ear. Did even know what an o-scope was before you told me about one.

 

Alway happy to help. When we tune yours we will know for sure where the HU clips and you can add it to your sticky

 

The final piece! Thanks Mr Marv!

 

@Mr Marv @1sttruckguy78 I'm getting really close to finishing up.

I'm trying eliminate some of the hissing even when audio is OFF. As of now I believe I went the path of having the blue remote wire coming off of the red wire on the Metra harnesses. I notice that amp and LOC are ON even though audio off. Is there a way to have LOC/amp only turn on if audio is on?

 

Yeah that switched power is always on when the trucks power is on. The only way to really fix that would be to find another power source that is switched. Maybe off the bed lights switch? That may be the answer. You would have to test what wire comes off the back of that switch has power and see if it shuts off.

 

Or wire in a toggle switch of your own.

 

Does your LOC have have signal sense? Meaning you could use the audio signal from the head unit to turn it on and have it send out power for the remote wire.

Second question would be what LOC are you using?

 

I've heard the signal sense doesn't work very well. Mine does have that but I didn't use it. I have a kicker zxsum8.

Or were you asking @toyomaniac71?

 

Ok I have read through almost 20 pages of this and I am forever thankful for all the info you guys have provided here so thank you to all.

I have a 2017 double cab off road and I am going to make the assumption (not yet confirmed) that the harness and wiring is the same as the 2016. However, the area behind the rear seats are different 'cause there is a big window motor now for the rear slider and so I have a couple questions

1) @Mr Marv - Have you designed/built a box for the '17 model yet? I see you have ones for the '16 & older.
2) I plan to run a 4 channel for door speakers & a 2 channel or mono block for subs - since the wire harness only has 8 wires for speakers do you guys use the front wire speakers into the main input and the rear speaker wires into channel 2 or 3 on the LC7?
3) In one of the pics posted I see that the person ran 2 of the speedwire's back to the rear of truck, do I need to do that?

Thanks for all the help guys as I begin to build my system

 

do you have a pic of that motor for the rear window?

You won't need to run 2 sets of speedwires to the back, I only ran one to my zxsum8. I went with the front speaker leads to input 1 and the rears to input 3 because it not only feeds output 3 but output 4 that went to my sub amp as well. The LC7i should wire up the exact same way.

 

Here is a picture of the rear