2016 BBP audio build

For lc7 inputs question. I used the front speakers for main and rears for 2. 3 has no wires.

 

did you see the pics of my box on post 1? they are below that rib right below the motor. you can't make the boxes that tall in the 16s either because of the vents. you can get something just like everyone's boxes that @Mr Marv has built

 

That's what I am aiming for, but part of me feels that I wouldn't have enough air space for dual 10's like yours, but obviously you are doing it.

The other thing I'm running into is that is like yours, I cannot carpet the rest of the back wall to make it look good 'cause of that window motor so i'm trying to think of other solutions. I was thinking of building the box like yours, but then building a facade that goes all the way up to cover the vents & motor, but not seal them in so they are still functional

 

Thanks for the picture, that helps out. In my last Taco I just ran loc's and didn't have many issues that I noticed, but with this new truck I want to do it right and take my time so I think I will be ordering the LC7, even though it is pricey ha ha...

 

That motor has gotta come off there somehow right? looks like it is held on with bolts. you could probably remove it, carpet the back wall and reinstall it. just a guess of course because i havent seen one up close with the power window.

as for the box, I'm running a really small airspace for my subs but they hit really low. i put some pollyfill in them to make the subs think they had more airspace than they actually do. If you know the amount of airspace you need for whatever subs you will be running, marv can make them. I'm sure if you are going to use a shallow mount sub they will not need a lot of airspace anyway.

 

I wanted to run the power bass sub I already have, but it's not a shallow mount and requires at least .75 cubic feet so I have decided to look into shallow mount that require less space. I am going to contact Mr Marv for pricing on his boxes

You are correct, the motor is held on with 3 bolts it looks like so probably easy to remove to finish up the back wall and install sound dead material. Here is a picture for reference

 

yeah you can move it out of the way for sure!! as for the speaker, you will definitely need to get something shallow.

 

How much air space do you think yours is per sub so I have an idea

 

Take it off. I'd be happy to take it off your hands

 

ha ha - that is a big nope. I love having the powered rear window

 

i would have to double check with marv. I honestly don't remember at all. I know it was super small, I want to say it was like .30

 

Dang that is real small. I have found one sub that will work that low so that is good.

 

I take that back, the minimum for the compRT 10 is .4. I know they are close to the minimum.

 

http://www.kicker.com/43CWRT101

 

I didn't have time to read through all of the latest replies ratcityrain but as Jeremy mentioned I do have a design for the 17 that fits below the motor and can fit a pair of certain small airspace requirement 10" subs such as JL 10TW3's or Sundown SD3's etc.

 

Awesome thank you. That is the info I needed. I will pm you for pricing and eta

 

Been busy since sub box came in!

Was able to use RAAM audio deadener and gray Ensolite to the entire back wall.
This is after Ensolite layer and most of finished fabric on. This was my first time with adhesive spray. Thought it would be easier to break up into pieces and hide some of the seams. Overall happy. Any trick to getting some of glue off of fabric? Goo gone?

Thought I would use 10mm bolt to anchor sub box to back wall. Perfect spot, just had to trim flat washer a little.

Nice enough of Mr Marv to leave some space behind sub box for crossovers. Decided not to put next to amp rack given EMI I got with the front crossovers in kick panel. Had I known there was this much space, would have preferred to put all four back here.
My amp rack with predrilled locations.
Never done this before either. Initially was going to try and cut out fabric above each hole ( you can see one above). But after further thought I like idea of making slits and NOT removing any fabric. Cables should still slide up but fabric will seal around cable. We'll see soon enough.


SO CLOSE!!

 

Kick ass job my freind!!

 

Kudos to you and everyone else who have helped me on this thread!!

 

That was my #1 goal. I can't wait to see it all done.