2016 BBP audio build

I have the popping too. I'll let you know if it disappears when I get off my ass and run a harness direct to the amp.

 

Thank you. This is actually the 2nd one I built 'cause I made the first one to deep so the seats wouldn't lock in place when up so I had to redo it all lol. It's ok 'cause I think this box turned out better looking.


Glad to know I am not the only one with a popping issue. It sounds like for sure it is the lc7 causing the problem and for some reason it's feeding back into the amp that's causing the pop.


Just read this on another thread "Tried a different remote wire on the back of the HU, solved the prob." There was no more info after this, but I honestly suspect this isn't the cause of the pop

Lastly, one person wrote that they installed this device between the processor and amp with a 5 sec delay and pop has gone away
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/1CH-DC-12V-d...050?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a89509dda

 

I think the pop or thump is just caused by the power turning on for the signal processor. I don't have an lc7i, I actually have a kicker zxsum8 so the issue is on other manufacturers too.

 

Mine seems to coincide with the power cutting off. The light on the acr1 bass knob turns off at exactly the same time I hear it.

 

The lc7 has some jumpers I can change so I'll start there. Sub has been ordered too. I'll link to more pics after I get them all compiled for those who want to see it and maybe some measurements if I remember. This was definitely a learning curve on the '17 having that window motor there.

 

Bored so had to find something to do.

Still need to tune my system. Cartoys said it would take them 4 hrs to do at $90/hr. They said it may not sound noticeably different to my ears.

My biggest complaint is occasional high pitch constant tone in back ground. Not noticeable when I listen to music. When I turn radio off, can still hear it. Gives me a headache.

So decided to add toggle switch to power up LOC/amp. Easy install and easy to remove if I want later.

 

hey guys, just planning on running just an amp to a pre made sub enclosure. Which speaker wires would I need to tap into for signal? I will be purchasing an amp with high level inputs. Thanks

 

Your best bet is to purchase a factory harness so you don't have to tap or cut any wires

 

This...

 

Thanks for your suggestions, i did read this thread, but just want to know where I could do a simple tap off for signal for the amp. Wasn't planning on going behind the stereo and doing the after market adapter splice. Thanks

 

You have to tap into the speaker wires - whether it be the front or rears. I believe the fronts can also be found in the kick panels, but the rears I'm sure you could find in the center panel where all the wires from the rear doors come out into the cab, but I couldn't tell you what color wires they are in either location. Behind the dash is much easier and honestly it is not hard to remove the deck

 

Yeah, I saw a post earlier about the color codes. I really don't mind at all tapping in the factory speaker wires to get the signal and then just run a remote signal to the front somewhere. Appreciate the advice, thanks

 

Ok made some more progress today. Added the sub and some lighting.

Still need to tune it and the sub sounds real hollow so I am going to add some polyfill in hopes that helps.

 

Question for you guys. I'm looking at upgrading the door speakers next. I already have a pair of kenwood components for the rear doors. I am torn on if I do 6x9's or 6.5" components for the front doors. What are you guys doing with yours and any recommendations on brands/models?

 

I did 6.75 inch kicker components in my front doors. They sound great. I have all of the equipment I used listed on my first post.

http://www.kicker.com/41KSS674

 

Focal PS165V components up front.
I read tons of reviews and asked people on lots of forums for their opinion & am super happy w/ my Focals!
Even got the 165AC for rears.
Love it!

 

Didn't install this in my truck but I installed in a 2012 Chevy Silverado over the weekend. These alpine power packs are pretty awesome. My buddy was using his stock head unit with it and man it really pushes his door speakers well. Ended up putting the power pack in his glove box.

 

For those who have a sub box in the back - do you have any rattling or vibration on the back wall? I did put some sound deadening there, but still rattles pretty bad. I am just curious if it is only me or if I need to add more

 

I hardly put any sound deadening on mine. No rattles

 

You can hear the back wall rattling in the cab?