2016 BBP audio build

What box is it so I can look at it. You have to be careful of the vents in the middle of the back wall so you are more limited in the size of box you can use.

 

Audio Enhancers TAC140C12 Subwoofer Speaker Box Compatible with Tacoma Trucks 2005-2016

Audio Enhancers TAC140C12 Toyota Tacoma 2005-2016 Subwoofer Speaker Box

In the questions and reviews it is said to fit but you have to remove all plastic and somewhat force it in.

I haven't bought the box yet so I'm good on that.

 

are you planning on using the factory wires to connect to the door speakers or running new wires from the amp?

 

That's where I was going with the component speakers.

 

It looks like it will fit but I'm still skeptical about the mounting depth of thos 12s

 

I'm curious what's the average price range for a mr marv custom box. Hopefully that's not an abnormal question. Before I pull the plug on this other box. Thanks.

What components are you guys recommending. I just purchased average door speakers based on the $250 upgrade thread here. Was just using it as a guide but I'm open to suggestions for sure.

 

I gave you a suggestion in post 917 for a component setup for the fronts. As far as the 250 dollar upgrade thread, most people are not using an amp for their door speakers there.

 

Yea I figured I would get the most out of the door speakers and hook an amp to them. Nothing too crazy but to help them get more oomph you know?

I planned to keep all factory wiring hence using the lci7 then run that to the amp is how I have gathered it all so far. Also I would do the same for the rear door speakers to the subs using an adapter right? Sorry I'm just a noob with audio. I hooked a few speakers and amps up as I was younger but it was almost I shall i say rigged up, lol! Will I need to get two adapters since I plan on using two amps or?

Sorry guys and I really appreciate it all!

 

I have a new Mr Marv box, amp rack and sub im selling for $600.

 

You'll need to run a speedwire 9 wire conductor from the radio harness to the lci7 and then another one from the amp back up to the harness.

Basically youre taking the signal from the factory HU and processing that and then after its processed and amplified, youll need a way to get it back to the speakers.

 

But since I'm doing two amps would I need two speedwires? Or can I just splice it all off one adapter? Ill have the amp to the door speakers and the amp to the subs.

 

Yes, one to the lc7i and one back up to the head unit from your 4 channel amp to the door speakers.

You can just run one speedwire to your lc7i and then run normal speaker wire to all 4 doors from the 4 channel amp. That's what I did. The only problem with that is you will need a component set for the fronts.

 

since you are using the lc7i, youll just need to run one speed wire from the HU to it. Te lc7i has 6 channel preamp out so youll connect 4 of the channels to the 4 channel amp and then the other 2 channels to the sub amp.

 

This is how I wired mine. But I will remind you, I did a full component setup in the fronts with a crossover for the mids and tweets.

 

Ok and you guys confused me when you said mids and tweets for the front doors so I cant run the factory speakers to the lci7? Why would I need to buy components for the front? Is this something I need to look into more? I'm just wanting to add an amp to the front door speakers that I am upgrading but still using factory harness on them with adapters sent from crutchfield with the door speakers I bought that was listed in the $250 upgrade post on here.

I'm gathering that I need to process the door speakers to the amp as well but that's what the lci7 does. I understand I'll need rcas for both amps will I be able to do this with just the lci7 outputs or what would be the best way to achieve this while still using all factory wiring.

 

The problem with using those Subaru tweeters and the 6x9s you bought for the front doors is they run off the factory wiring which runs through the tweet first. All the people in that other thread are not using amps, just replacing speakers. I tried to do what you are thinking at first and it did not work right. I will pm you my phone number, it may be easier if I explain it over the phone.

 

@HitMaNaCe here are those components I was talking about. They are cheaper than the Subaru tweets and the 6x9s you have now.

Kicker 43CSS694 CSS69 6x9-Inch Component System with .75-Inch tweeters, 4-Ohm

KICKER CSS69 6X9" (160x230mm) Component System with .75" (20mm) Tweeter, Pair, 4-OHM, ROHSKicker

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MDJ1SEM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_1sWyBb54E0354

 

Ok so I could essentially just run new speaker wire to the new upgraded speakers straight to the amp and run the lci7 to the amp for output to it. The HU will be supplying it's output to the lci7 which processes it and then sends it and amplifys it then the amp will send it to the speakers as well as to the sub amp and subs.

I think I get it now. I see.

I was under the assumption i could keep all factory wiring and still use it and the lci7 would take care of the processing.

I can keep current tweeters as is right? Just run new speaker wire to door speakers to amp only? I'm just trying to keep from ordering anything additional that I wouldn't need to. I'd hate to have to find a buyer for these already purchased 6x9s and tweets. But if I'm going to have to I suppose I will.

I guess I'll just leave factory plugs hanging in door un used correct?

Thanks for the diagram as well! Was very helpful for me understanding it though!

 

No you can't. The head unit runs to the tweeter first then to the door speaker. I'm telling you, the way you are thinking about this is just too complicated. I tried to do what you are thinking first and the shit didnt work. I have already tried this and wanted time. I really want to help you but I would not tell you to do it this way if I wouldn't or hadn't done it myself. I have more that 70 hours into this audio build.

This is what the tweeter harness looks like and I tried to splice the input from the deck and the output to the door speaker. Nothing worked doing it that way.

 

Well on another note, I'm going to add a voltage gauge. @Aw9d what do you think of SMD? I trust your opinion.
SMD VM-1 Analog LED DC Volt Meter (12v) by MSD Ignition

$79 SMD VM-1 Analog LED DC Volt Meter (12v) by MSD Ignition

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BWDQ12K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_YZ0yBbFAC3E54