2016 BBP audio build

This is why I started this thread. I wanted to help others out that wanted to upgrade. Doing a full install like this is very involved. What is the main part that is holding you back from attempting the install yourself?

 

Mostly the wiring, especially when I see all the splicing and soldering. I don't even own a soldering iron, plus trying to do any larger scale projects in a a parking space at my apartment complex isn't ideal. I'm also looking for suggestions on any particular brand of wire to purchase for this.

 

I can understand that for sure. I don't even know how much an install of this magnitude would be if you paid someone. I would probably see if you could have a place take care of the wiring for you from the deck to your sound processor or loc then you take if from there if you can.

Speaker wire on the other hand, do you want recommendations for the speaker wire from the amp to the speakers or from the deck to the loc or sound processor?

 

I mean I know what gauges I need, I just haven't seen anyone mention what brand they used on any threads I've read. I am assuming people just went to a store or online and got whatever happened to pop up. As far as labor intensive I can't imagine it would be too bad since I got the same size speakers as factory, just upgraded essentially and added a 13" sub for behind the seat along with the amp going back there. I have to move the seats forward a little due to that damn vent, but @Mrmarv said it isn't much. Overall I could damn near set everything up and just take it in to get wired somewhere.

 

I ended up using monster cable speaker wire from the 4 channel amp to the door speakers. Standard stuff.

 

I'll have to look into getting some. Did you run an in line fuse to the battery?

 

Yes I did. So for the 2 amps I'm running I went with two 4 guage kicker amp kits. I went through the firewall using the grommet for the main harness right behind the battery.

What are you going to be using for your system? Are you just replacing the door speakers and just having the factory head unit power them and adding the 13 inch sub and amp?

 

No, I have a 5 channel amp coming also. So everything has to get rewired essentially. I really wanted to upgrade the head unit also, but I'm afraid of losing all the features of the screen in the instrument panel.

 

Yeah, I didn't replace the head unit for the same reason. So you will only need one amp kit. The speed wire below and the harnesses listed will help to make it much easier for sure.

 

The great thing about TW is there are a lot of good people that are willing to help out. If you decide to install yourself you can certainly ask questions here. I can't wait to see that box for the 13 inch sub that Mr Marv is building for you.

 

Thanks! I've got one other question to ask and this may be a little silly. I'm going to be running 2 amps at a total of 990 watts rms (340 for the doors and 650 for the sub). So at 12v I'll be pulling 82.5 amps and I was thinking about running 2 gauge which is rated for about 115 amps according to the NEC which should give a nice buffer. Is this overkill? Also why are the wire capacities so much different for car audio compared to any other kind of electrical work? Hopefully this isn't too dumb a question.

Edit: I guess I should add that I feel confident running 2 gauge for my system, I've just kind of been thrown for a loop because of how many people are running what seems (to me anyway) to be way too much amperage through too small of wire. Just wanted to make sure I'm not missing something.

 

Yeah, @Mrmarv has been pretty awesome about the whole thing. He asked me what kind of music I listen to, what I was trying to get out of it, then helped me pick out everything I needed. I don't think you can go wrong with him. He's a pretty nice guy. I need to get better about taking pictures and actually uploading them. I've got a massive front bumper on now, and I haven't posted any pictures on here.

 

Soldering may be the preferred method but you can also use crimped type connectors for your splices that will work just fine, that's what I used.

 

I purchased my system (speakers, amp, brackets) from Mr Marv, he did provide any needed assistance along the way.

 

I was told by two different installers that the 4 guage power wire I ran for each of my amps was plenty. My 4 channel amp can go up to 100 watts rms per channel (400 watts total) and my mono amp is 600 watts rms. I had my mono amp in my last car for 5 years with 4 guage wire. I have never dug that deep into the specs of it all but I have had at least a sub amp in every one of my cars for the last 20 years.
I thought about running one 0 guage wire to a power distribution block and splitting it down to tw 4 guage leads but 0 guage is so hard to work with. That's why I went with two separate 4 guage kits. You can see right on most amp kits what they are good to run.

I also wanted to add, most amps can only except up to 4 guage power wire, check your amp to see if it has a huge connection that you can even connect something bigger to it.

 

Yeah, the plan was to run 2 gauge to the back to a distribution block and split it into 4 gauge for the amps, there's no way my amps would take 2 gauge.

 

I ran into this video on the forum thought it might help you all out.
https://youtu.be/-GWSJjKXurk

 

@1sttruckguy78 , how are you wiring your Remote Out, Remote In, 12v and Ground on the AudioControl unit? Do you need a Remote In connection at all since it has the "Great Turn On" feature? I guess this is the last bit of wiring i'm not 100% sure on.

This link has some good information but wasn't sure if you really needed to run another wire to the battery:

https://1.shortstack.com/Cx1RRJ

 

The remote turn on I tapped into the ignition wire on the main harness. I ran the power wire off my mono amps power and I grounded it on a seat belt mount.

 

Isn't there a remote 12v+ from the metra harness?