2016 - Present Old Man Emu Kits

Here’s a side view. Slight rake because of the leafs, but it doesn’t bother me.

here’s a couple more pictures and a side view.

 

Yea, your truck is sweet Bro! Nice job!

What you need now are some of those @mesojdm blacked out Ultimate Turn Signals. You might want to go over there and snag a pair if you haven't already.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/ultimate-led-turn-signals.486423/

 

Thanks Rob! Sadly I am of no help though, as I have never attempted to correct driveshaft vibrations. Maybe I'm lucky, or maybe I'm numb to them by now, but I've never had any vibes worse than a very slight shudder on takeoff. Sorry!

 

Thanks for the side pics!!!!!!! Love the Rake!!!!! I want the rake actually! I haul crap and need the extra lift. Plus it help aerodynamically. I would think.

You too, get over to this thread and snag a set of these lights!!!!

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/ultimate-led-turn-signals.486423/

By the way, those wheels are hot! I like those. I almost bought those tires too! How are you liking them? How's your MPGs with those compared to the stock you took off?! I'd ask how they do int he snow but I am guessing you don't see much of that.

 

Randy,
It's all good. Just you're my go to guy now. LOL

But, er, uh, we might want to learn because if anyone is gonna have issues with a lift it will be me. Odds are always against me. LOL I will just make sure I am prepared when the time comes.
Shopping List:
1) Beer
2) Steaks & Potatoes
3) More Beer
4) Lift Kit
5) Little more Beer
6) Axle Shims
7) In case I forgot, some more beer
8) Oh yea, a bag of chips.

 

That's a solid list for sure! Before we lift yours, I'll be sure to do some reading so we can be even more prepared to make your lift the best it can possibly be. Plus then I'll expand my knowledge! A win win.

 

And make sure you're thirsty!

 

So far these tires are solid. Fairly smooth ride and more than acceptable road noise. Haven't tested them in snow yet, but from the tread design I would assume they are competent. I haven't done any actualy mpg calculations, but according to the display in the truck I've lost ~2mpg. After a freeway trip it will report almost 18.7-19mpg and I used to be around 21mpg.

 

That's great. I like that warranty too that comes them. They look to have a more aggressive sidewall in your photos than on the manufacturers site. They definitely have more sipes than the Ridge Grapplers I run, and sipes equate to more traction.

 

very clean looking!
are those extended length 5100 in the back? with extended brake lines?

 

Nope, stock break lines and no issues with length. Also, standard 5100's

 

Something's off about your slopes and working angles...
I doubt you have TC/1st shaft working angle of 0.6 after a CB drop.
Plus, the slope rises from TC to 1st shaft after CB drop.

Are you using a 90 degree square on the TC flange and pinion flanges?
Don't measure the yokes; they might not be machined to give the true centerline slopes of the TC or pinion.

Assuming it is set-up correct from the factory, a CB drop is not needed. TC centerline slope and 1st shaft slope should be the same or within one degree. While you're measurements say you have this, I doubt that is the case.

See if this helps any...

 

Hey @splitbolt ,
Thanks for responding to this question. I'm going to be ultimately adding a OME/Dakar kit and I'm trying to learn as much as I can now to be prepared then. I hope you don't mind but I have a lot of questions.

First, one thing I never hear anyone talk about is what the OEM angle difference is. Is OEM 0° ?

In your response above you say 3° max for the working angle between the front shaft and pinion, and please, I am in no way doubting you, but, I have heard 6° max by others. Your number definitely sounds more legit. Especially if OEM is 0°. It's hard for me to follow because I'm learning and not a mechanic but it's just simple math no? Is it possible to correct vibrations from any amount of lift or is there a point when you've gone too far and can't bring it back? I don't think I could convince my co-pilot/accountant that vibrations in the drive train hard enough to feel are acceptable. Wives are funny that way.

I believe the max lift with the kit I've selected is 3" in the back and 2.75" in the front. These trucks are already capable off road but my tires and wheels weigh in at 80 lbs per corner and are almost 33". I do have slight rubbing and would prefer not to cut, chop or bend anything yet. The roads I drive on aren't the best in the world. Bridge joints in curves sometimes cause that rear end to shift during the bouncing. LOL so my main goals are improve the suspension properties and gain a little height.

I also find it hard to believe that these kits don't come with the parts required to correct any issues. How much are shims? Can't be that much. Then I have to wonder, wouldn't the manufacturer know what to include or the consumer know what to buy based on the existing geometry and the amount of lift? All the facts are constants. All the trucks are built the same way, and so are the kits. The only variable would be adjustable kits.

I'll likely have more questions based on your answers to the ones above. Thanks again for your responses.
Rob

 

It takes two equal working angles to cancel each other.
Our driveshafts have three single u-joints; thus three working angles. There is nothing to cancel a third working angle.
One of them has to be zero; that would be the TC/1st driveshaft working angle.
The 1st shaft slope must match the TC centerline slope, within 1 degree; a CB drop doesn't help to accomplish this.
When the 1st shaft slope matches the pinion centerline slope, the middle and pinion working angles will automatically be equal.

Who cares what the 2nd shaft slope is; unless you're trying to figure out 1st shaft/2nd shaft and 2nd shaft/pinion working angle for life expectancy or binding...see below.

I didn't say 3 degrees is the max working angle; just "preferred".
U-joint life expactancy is rated at so many hours, at so many RPM, at 3 degrees working angle.
Greater than 3 degrees, reduces life expactancy; no biggie, unless it's so great, it binds.

 

I asked Marie at headstrong about this as well. My kit came in just waiting for a couple other things too before installing it. But this info might help too



So the CB drop bracket (FK29) will help to mitigate vibrations however that is something that could fall a little short. So some people do add in shims but it really depends on if you feel vibrations and what your before and after lift pinion angles are. If you place these items in first you can experience vibrations from doing so. What we usually recommend is for our customers to measure their factory pinion angle (there are some tutorials on the forums) prior to the lift and again after. This way you know what degree your angles are off and you will be able to add in the proper shim. Another thing we try to recommend is adding the center pin head lengtheners and center pins in. The lengtheners are a thick narrow washer which elongate the center pin head. This allows you to be able to add in shims later if need be. If you get them ahead of time you can clamp the leaf pack together, remove the center pin, slide the lengthener over the new center pin and replace them. This way if you do need a shim, down the road, you would just have to slide it in and not have to remove the pack to add in the lengthener then.

https://www.headstrongoffroad.com/s...nter_Pin_Head_Lengtheners_(PAIR)_-_CBHL1.html

 

Any idea what brand tires those are?

 

They are Pro Comp AT/S E rated with a 60k tread life

 

Thank for explaining all of this. I'm starting to understand a little. I also try to ask question and make statements that might help others as well.

Yes, as you say, 3° or less is preferred to keep wear to a minimum so I just meant that it should be the maximum allowed working angle to achieve this. Sorry for misquoting.

Just to clarify, CB = carrier bearing? This is something that is designed to be bolted to the underside of the truck, and around the drive shaft at a certain point to force it to remain concentric?

Won't the vibration transfer through the bearing assembly to the cab? Is it really possible to eliminate the vibration with a simple isolation device?

Is the 1st shaft in the stock state anything but 0 degrees from thetransfer case?

It seems to me the goal would be as you say to cancel out the working angles and to do this it seems you'd ultimately be forced to use shims to adjust the pinion angle.

Thank you again.
Rob

 

Thanks for adding to the conversation.

I hit the link after reading your post and these look like spacers. Do these go between the leaf pack and axle? Are the shims slotted and open on one end and then slide in around these?

Seems like I need to research more and look at pics to see what's going on for the application of these as well as the various components of the leaf pack and axle connection.

Also, it says these washers are for the older leaf packs, not the newer ones? I would assume since my truck is a 2017 I'd only be putting newer constructed components on it?

Thanks.
Rob

 

Do it at the same time .. I originally bought the ome heavy duty kit when I only had sliders and a c4 swingout rear bumper and it was like a rock up front so I ordered oem wieght front springs and installed them for four months.. Then my front bumper came and I had to put the front heavy springs back in.. wish I did it all at once. I did the work myself thank god.