2016 SSO Slimline Bumper

Here is what I used:
https://www.cascadia4x4.com/products/the-flipster-winch-license-plate-mounting-system-v2

 

Mine just arrived today and I have a warn X9000di so ill likely need to cut, I believe its an inch shorter though

 

We offer a Hawes License Plate holder http://www.southernstyleoffroad.com/product/warrior-hawse-license-plate-mount/?v=310e81fb3008

 

I'm ordering a mictuning switch for the light bar that comes with this, does anyone know what size switch to get? I intend to put it on the left side in the empty slot next to the rear window switch.

https://www.amazon.com/MICTUNING-Bu...d=1482951103&sr=8-2&keywords=mictuning+switch

EDIT: This has been answered. 1.54 x .83

 

Thanks.

Is... is that a beer koozie?

 

I just got mine today to run with my Slimline - which is a really well put together piece of kit. Am second-guessing myself a little bit though wondering if their Ultrahook would have been more versatile.

 

I always run the traditional hook.

 

If I had a steel cable I probably would too. I'm running synthetic though and wanted to get it out of the elements and also not have to keep a shackle installed all the time to attach it to. The Flatlink is letting me do that but am thinking the Ultrahook might have given me the best of both worlds. That being said, the stock hook is in my toolbox and it would take less than a minute to swap 'em back out if I had a scenario where a hook was better suited.

 

Not for $240.

I ordered two red 3/4 shackles- more versatility in all that...

 

It is, from Matt at offgrid4x4. I put in his split dual battery setup this week as well. Still coming together (sorry to derail).

 

Agreed...especially considering it would only take about a minute to swap back out to the stock hook. I think the deciding factor (no pun intended) for me was how easy it would be to do a really clean double line self recovery with this bumper and the Flatlink-E combo.

 

It's really not that bad at all. Only reason it sucked big time for me is that I tried to install the first time - got stymied - then unmounted the winch from the bumper - then reinstalled everything without the winch - then figured out from @Kennedyusmc that it was doable - then put the winch back on and did it all again without issue.

If you know up front you're going to have to remove that extra part it'll only add about 5 minutes to your install - and that keeps the solenoid in place. There are a couple of other folks around that chose to relocate but that's a bit more of an involved process than I wanted to do (and is going to cost you an additional ~$80 for the relocation kit).

If you choose to go with @Kennedyusmc or my method and remove that piece (highly recommended) feel free to hit either of us up if you run into issues.

 

Dude - I just now noticed the beer coozie padding! I used some velcro but I like your method more...now your Coors tall-boy won't be sweating in your hand when you enjoy it after a pull.

 

Looks great! You drilled out the rivet points on this piece just like Chris?

 

Exactly. I figure that method was a ton less ass-pain than having to relocate the entire solenoid. If folks are want to run a Zeon 10 vice a Smittybilt X20, I think it's a no-brainer.

 

Us creatives... that's Marine resourcefulness at it's finest.

 

Yeah...in the AF we have people that wipe down our beers for us.

 

Another option, if you really want to keep the support, is to dremel the lower metal flange off the removed piece. I didn't see it doing enough to warrant such work.

 

I considered the same option, but sort of figured since it ends up resting on the solenoid, it's probably getting the same amount of support (if not more) than it had before. Having that piece removed also allows me a clearer view of how the line is spooling on the winch anyway.

 

A must- especially if you loose spool. That PS cooler is mighty close.