285/75/R16 Results on 2016 TRD Offroad

Thats not how it works.

 

Well said.. It all makes sense now.

 

Good! There are thousands of threads that discuss wheel and tire fitment as well as clearances. I'm glad you found them helpful

 

Lift/Tires noob here. So how do folks get tires to fit by just adding a lift? I feel like I've seen posts for trucks that have added 33's without cutting or trimming because they added a lift / messed with the suspension. I'm getting a slight rub on the fender well after adding .75" spacers. I added a leveling kit when I installed the 285/75/16s and there was no rub (before the spacers obviously) so I know I can take off the spacers and get rid of the rub but I really like the poke look that the spacers add. I was talking to someone that said going up to a 2.5" lift all around would fix it but are you saying it won't? I hope I'm hearing you right because heating and banging on the fender well is much cheaper than lifting another inch! Thanks for the help! This thread is why I went 285/75/16. Definitely the best IMO.

 

Fitting tires really comes down to two things, wheel backspacing and alignment. The folks that fit 285/75 and have zero rubbing or trimming are typically exaggerating or exceptionally rare, some folks get lucky with their wheel specs (Pro wheels seem to work) but almost everyone has to adjust or trim something at some point. There are some that have rubbing with 265/75s but you wont ever know until you cycle the suspension through the entire range of motion and many do not. The wheel backspacing determines where the tire sits, either inboard or outboard, a wheel with a large backspace (often with +offset) sits inboard and you risk rubbing the UCA or frame when turning. A wheel with a lower backspace (often -offset) sits more outboard away from the suspension components but now runs the risk of rubbing the cab mount. So the trick is to find a backspace that fits in between. I recommend a 3.75 - 4.25 backspace on a wheel.

The second part is alignments, alignments shouldn't focus on an arbitrary number but should maximize wheel space through positive caster. You want the lower cams adjusted to maximize caster. This is why we see so many folks add aftermarket high caster UCAs. This lets them get caster at round +5 which maximizes wheel space and travel in the wheel well.

The reason why a lift (except drop brackets) dont provide room for larger tires because of the items mentioned above, lifts are designed to operate within factory geometry, unless you do shock relocations they have the same amount of travel as the stock components, all you are doing is reducing the amount of droop the suspension has.

Check this thread out, You can see I really didnt have to trim much to fit 35s, same concepts for a 33.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/intro-to-fitting-35s-3-lifts.594309/

 

Man this is huge. I appreciate it! Sending folks this thread is really all anyone ever needs to do haha. I damn near read the whole thing. Apparently I've already done the CMC without realizing that's what I did. After reading this I'm thinking all I need is a little fender trimming on the front and back where I'm rubbing. I'm hoping to get away with just using a heat gun and not breaking out the grinder. The only thing that confused me was the limited info I saw where folks said the relocated the cab mount. What exactly is this? I was really rubbing until I cut that plastic piece (CMC) off the back of the fender well but it didn't look like anything that needed to be relocated. What am I missing? Thanks again! Everyone needs to check that damn thread!

 

The cab mount is the large glob of metal behind the wheel below the fender. It’s where the cab is bolted to the frame. Many people have to cut this and weld on a new plate. Below is a thread that explains the relocation. If you aren’t rubbing the cab mount then you might not need to do this and instead just trim the fender.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/new-kit-cab-mount-relocation-kits.536984/

 

I did my research and this is the path I followed, thanks @Stefan_Ray
The 285 75R 16 Cooper STT Pro's don't rub at all and a good 3/4in from the cab mount, forward and reverse full lock. Haven't done any flexing as I just put then on today

 

People say 285/75/16 don’t fit without lift on a TRD off-road. That is correct. But I made them fit

Tubbed the firewall. Retained the factory fender liner. Cab mount chop. All the regular bullshit. But she looks fuckin mint with no lift

 

Mint is right. Which tires did you go with?

 

Went with duratracs again. Up here in Canada land, people are starting to build their igloos for winter. By far the best winter tire I’ve ever run. I’ll switch out in the spring for something a little more aggressive. My buddy owns a tire shop so I basically got them for free haha

 

Hard to beat that

 

So no mud flaps, maybe a little heat gun action on some plastics, and I’m good on stock suspension. Sweet.

 

I would love to pick you brain. Been researching going up to 33s on my truck. I love SCS wheels and am saving up for the dark bronze it looks like you are running(F5?). They look amazing on your truck. What offset did you go with? And did you need to add a UCA or any other adjustments to get them to work?
Thanks so much for your help.

 

I very much like my 33" pizza cutter Wildpeaks, but wish Duratracs came in that size, as they were my fav tire.