2nd battery & power gate rectifier installed

Since installation of my audio system, even with the 130 amp alternator (tow package) I have been experiencing flashing lights etc. while playing at excessive volumes.

Links to various build threads:

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/au...ck-seat-mod-system-install-complete-pics.html


http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/audio-video/98693-hybrid-audio-l8s-installed-doors-pics.html


After much research, I have decided to upgrade my alternator. Wanted to go as large as possible, but obviously wanted something of quality that would last. 250 amps is much more than I need, but the price difference between it and smaller units isnt that substantial...so why not jump big?This is the one I will be installing...my next project...lol

https://www.dcpowerinc.com/alternators/toyota/2004-2010-toyota-4l-v6-250-amp-alternator.html


In the mean time, I wanted to add a well needed second battery and quality rectifier to correctly isolate the system.

After extensive research, i chose a Power Gate "perfect switch" rectifier due to its build quality, and the less than 1 milliamp draw it requires to function. I recommend researching this as I did before just buying a Stinger isolator. They may work, but there is much more alt. amperage lost in their operation. The PowerGate unit i purchased is rated for 300 amps, and was bench tested at 316 amps.

http://www.perfectswitch.com/power-gate/battery-discharge-controllers/single-rectifier-isolator/

Little on the expensive side (just over $300), but worth it to me for piece of mind. Installation instructions and ALOT more is available on their site. I spent an hour on the phone discussing technical portions of my install, and their customer service and technical knowledge was a HUGE help.




For the second battery, I chose a Kinetic KHC 1800 and mounting sleeve. Dont see my battery listed now, but heres a link where I purchased it and the sleeve.

http://www.audiosavings.com/product...-MOUNTING-SLEEVE-4-KHC1800-HC1800/KMS-18.aspx

I had removed my URD intake a while back and re-installed the Borla intake which came with my XSP package due to an incident where I had sucked water (during a heavy south Florida rain) into my intake while drving down the highway...even with a K&N dry sock installed!

Recently, I decided to re-install the URD intake, but added a universal "shield" or cover which protects the intake filter from direct rain... Since adding this, I have had NO issues...and it obviously gave me the room i needed for the second battery.




3 years ago, I purchased a KHC 2400, which I have been using since as my primary battery. I recently removed it, as it seems to NOT be holding its charge as well as it should. More than likely it requires desulfanization, which will require the proper charger (available from the site above). In the mean time, I re-installed (temporarily) my OEM battery to function as the primary battery. My entire audio system runs from the new aux. battery, leaving the primary only responsible for stock power demands.

I ordered a sleeve for the KHC 2400, and plan on reinstalling it or replacing it depending on how well the desulfinization charger regenerates it...we shall see. As you can see, I left my primary battery leads long enough to accomodate reinstallation of the Kinetic 2400.




New stinger terminals, 0 gauge wiring, digital bat terminals, waterproof ANL fuse holders, etc. came from Darvix...love this guy!

http://www.darvex.com/store/pc/home.asp


I made templates for mounting the rectifier and fuse holders from cardboard. once i laid everything out, I fabricated both fuse plates and a battery tray which utilizes the factory holes for the intake out of 14 ga galvanized.

After pre-drilling, sanding and priming, I sprayed with Black Rubberized textured bed-liner spray paint from Home Depot.

Wiring diagrams are available from Perfect Switch website above, but heres a brief break down for those considering this...

Disconnect alt lead to fuse box...fold it and SAFELY tape it off/zip tie it out of the way.

I had people both here and on TN instructing me to leave the alt wire to fuse box, and simply add an additional wire to the rectifier from the alt. After speaking in great length with PowerGate, the owner of which drives a land Cruiser and is familiar with our vehicles) he assured me doing that would be a mistake. I followed his instruction, with great results!

Install 0 gauge from alternator to anode post of rectifier.(FUSE..FUSE..FUSE!!) Fuse should be sufficient to cover MAX current of alternator. Would have liked my alt. fuse to be a little closer to the alt itself...but having it securely mounted was of important concern.


Install 0 gauge from AUX battery to anode post of rectifier. (FUSE WITHIN 16 INCHES OF BATTERY!!) Fuse should be sufficient to cover MAX current of alternator.

0 gauge from primary battery to cathode post of rectifier. (FUSE WITHIN 16 INCHES OF BATTERY!!) Fuse should be sufficient to cover MAX current of alternator.

I grounded both batterys to chassis with the shortest 0 gauge leads i could. The rectifier must be grounded well! i grounded it with the primary battery ground.

Rectifier uses BOTH batteries for starting the truck, then splits the charge from the alt depending on battery voltage. The aux battery will never pull current from the primary.





I may go back and encapsulate the two 0 gauge wires I currently have installed across the fire-wall in wire-loom for added protection, but short of that am very happy with both the appearance and function of this upgrade.

On a side note...I LOVE the function and appearance of the Kinetic battery sleeves...but recommend you slip a small flat strap or something around the battery (if it'll fit) prior inserting the battery. I didnt, and couldnt pull my aux battery out to save my ass! Its tight!

With my factory 130 amp alt, only with POUNDING bass, A/C on full, and headlights on do I experience even MINOR flashing of my lights. I am convinced upgrading to even a 180 amp alternator would be sufficient...but again, the price difference between a 180 amp and the 250 is worth it in my mind...for piece of mind.

Hopefully this will help someone else...perhaps save them hours of research...lol.

The power demands of my audio system justify a high output alternator...but for those running less amperage...I am convinced an upgrade of this nature would more than suffice.

 

Thats definitely a sweet setup. I dont have any need for this for my sound system, but once I get my camper setup started it might come in handy.

 

Kinda funny they call it a rectifier. a rectifier takes AC and turns it into DC. This is actually a diode-or circuit. In this case more appropriately an ideal diode-or. Its actually an extremely simple circuit. I could build one with spare parts laying around my lab.

 

From their website...

Single rectifiers are a single, one-way electrical valve commonly deployed in dual battery configurations where a single auxiliary battery is dedicated for applications where discharge of the auxiliary battery is to be independent of the primary battery. Don’t confuse POWER-GATE Battery Discharge Controllers with more common, lesser performing silicon and Schottky isolators. POWER-GATE sets the benchmark for ultra-low on-resistance which means devices require no heat sinking and no airflow at currents up to 300 amps. Wrapped in a custom, insert-molded ABS package, single rectifiers are perfectly suited for high vibration, dirty, and moist environments. POWER-GATE is recommended by top battery manufacturers to insure that DC power gets to where it’s needed without the excessive heat and voltage loss typified by more common, lesser performing silicon and Schottky devices.
"POWER-GATE shown with provided post insulators, optional high current fuse, fuse holder, and cover."


For pricing or online purchase, call 858.720.1339 for special log-in, or email us at info@perfectswitch.com

 

how much did you spend on parts (battery, Power-Gate, cables, alternator, etc.), and how much on install?