2nd Gen CV Axle Removal Tips/Tricks/Advice

I didn't want to post this in the Official 2nd Gen Driveline Vibe thread and clutter it, but I will be doing the ECGS bushing install tomorrow with a number of other suspension upgrades since the front end will be apart.

For those people who have replaced or removed the CV axle(s) before, let me run the below list by you to see if the knowledge from previous posts is correct. If I miss anything, or you have a correction let me know.

1) Before you put on lift or stands, engage 4x4 so when you reinstall the CV axle it isn't as hard to line up the splines.

2) Removing the CV is generally a PITA. Use a BFH with a cable choker, or a slide puller with one jaw tightened under a hose clamp to help pull it.

3)Reinstalling the CV axle, make sure the C clip is oriented with the open side facing down. Make sure C clip is also centered on the axle, not cockeyed. Use thick grease to help hold the C clip in orientation.

4) Make sure axle is reinserted straight in, not off a little to work around hub, suspension, etc. IE have all shit out of your way!

Anything else I should know, or is the above correct, concise and to the point? Thanks in advance, I'm looking forward to the fix with the new bushing, just not looking forward to trying to pop out the axle with what I've read.

 

I did not use (1), and it did not seem to be a problem at all.

(2) (3) and (4) are correct. The cable with a swing hammer is really easy.

 

I actually think removing the CV is actually pretty easy. Once you have taken it apart and put it back together. You will find short cuts. Just take the tire off. Sit back and see what you have to and what you don't have to pull off or unbolt.

 

But you seem to know what you're doing

 

Subscribed for future reference. How many miles on your current CV?

 

30,400 miles. I'm hoping the needle bearing didn't score the surface of the CV shaft, as that's one part I did NOT buy for this job. Other than that big if, my CV axles haven't given me any noise or problem.

 

Sub'd.

Doing this in a couple weeks. My Axles arrived today. Let us know how it goes and if you gain any insight while doing the job.

 

Will do, hoping this whole job goes smoothly

 

I got this job done today, but before I share my hints, I will say I had an advantage. My truck was on a lift, and the CV axle was about five and half feet off the ground.

This job (ECGS bushing install) was also mixed in with cutting old LCA's off, and dropping the coilovers. So I had nothing in my way except the brakes and UCA.

The axle came out really easy. My friend, who owns the garage I was using the lift at, grabbed a large prybar before I could even get my cable choker out. He told me to hold the CV axle and he just pried against the meaty portion of the tulip corner and the diff case. Hardly any force and it just came right out.

Same for reinstall. I made sure the c-clip was greased with the open end of the c facing down. I also greased up the splines and bearing surface a bit to make it a little easier. Felt the splines start to slide into the spider gear and again a helper gave the axle a couple of raps (medium pressure) with a brass hammer and it popped back in with surprising ease.

Make sure to install the axle nut on the end of the axle before rapping it with a hammer, it'll protect the threads. Brass will give before the metal, but don't beat the hell out of it. You'll feel it line up at first, then tap it with a hammer. I can't explain it any better than that, you'll see what I mean when you are actually doing it.

I didn't have my truck in 4 wheel drive and I didn't have a problem. When you torque the axle nut back on, stick a screwdriver into the slots between the front and back of the rotor and let it rest against the caliper. That acts as a stop and I had no problem getting the required torque of 173 ft/lbs.

 

Thanks all for the tips going to do the ECGS bushing tomorrow

 

Damn!!!! These tips proved invaluable. What would've had me stuck all day; after reading this, everything just came together and slid into place. Hell!!! Lube does work!!!!!
Thanks TW!!!! Always helpful when in a tight spot!!!! (Stop it)

 

I just did this and posted the things I learned... I found getting the axles both out and in a major PITA, especially working by myself on jack stands. That said the C clip being correctly oriented is definitely key to get it back in. I used a curved prybar I have and ziptied it to the CV axle. I then gave it a few taps with a sledge and that got it out. Are you replacing all the seals? The ECGS bushing fixed my woes though.

Here is my posting:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...mplete-things-i-learned.680375/#post-23966945

 

Naw man, I was just replacing the cv shaft. My boot had a hole and I'm wasnt sure if there was anymore grease in there?? I just bought 20x10's and 33's and didn't want to ruin the rims. I did my brakes about a month ago and decided I needed a cv. When finally got my shoes, I did the deed this morning. Man the grease bit really helped. Thanks!! The ring facing down alone wasn't working. Added grease, and boom!!! All else was down hill from there, also on jack stands and cardboard. All tco tho!! Thanks.
After some new leaf springs, and mayne a full size spare, them bushings are def next.

 

I know this post is old, but I get to do this job next week, so the advice is timeless…

 

Once the nut is off from the cv, tale a pry bar ; preferably with the slight bend at the end, and wedge it on the rear most lip of the shaft. Try to place the cv pretty straight, rotate it as you pry, amd it should just pop off.
Tho I did have the truck on jacks, I also used the pry bar to keep the wheel from spinning with the bolts on the lugs, as not to mess up the threads.
When you get to reinstall, add a bit of grease on the ring at the end of the shaft that goes into the case. You will want the gap of that ring facing up. It should pop right in with a little effort.

 

Just replaced the cv axle on mine a few weeks ago, it was an absolute nightmare to get out and went back in pretty smoothly.
I checked it a few weeks after installation, the problem is that apparently it didn't lock fully into place.It looks fully seated but will back out slightly when you pull back on the inner joint, not fully but probably 3/16' or a 1/4" or so. I removed the nut and smacked on the axle and it looks fully seated but not locked in.
I've replaced lots on axles on other vehicles but they always seem to lock in but not this one.
Luckily, I didn't throw out the old one so I may just reuse the inner joint and transfer the new outer. Maybe transfer the old locking clip too. The old outer boot was torn but the axle itself was fine.
If anyone has a magic wand I'd like to borrow it for a while, usually Tacomas don't require one but wtf.

 

There is a slight gap and movement if you grab it. How do you know it's not locked in place? Just based off that small gap?

 

I've had to do this four times now. It never is easy. Pry bar and a hammer seems to work best, just stay at it and it eventually will give. I would also recommend not using after market CV axles. The boots on mine failed pretty early, thus the four times issue. I replaced both when one original failed. Then one failed and put new aftermarket in, then other failed and put the good original back in. Now I've got one aftermarket and one original. Not looking forward to doing it again.

 

Hey, I've changed out my CV axles a few times now and I found the easiest way to remove it is to take off my BAMF skid plate and then use long pry bar and hammer to knock it out from under the vehicle. This has proved to work very efficiently but removing the skid is a lot more work. I've seen people pry on it from the outside but I just can't seem to get it to pop out.
Anyone have any tips on prying the CV axle out easily? The reason I want to be able to do it this way is that if I break one on the trail removing the skid will greatly increased my repair time while I'm probably laying in the dirt.

 

I use this tool to remove (or one like it) -- I keep it in the truck with the spare and the 35mm socket. that pry tool makes it easy to get out. I also have to remove the skids which is a PIA. Having a helper on the re-install is great b/c I've found you want that axle as straight as possible going in. I am usually balancing the end on jack stands at the right height and hammering it in. Fortunately, I haven't had to do this on a trail.

$20 Sunluway 2 Pack 12020 Axle Popper Kit Inner CV Axle Removal Tool Set for Use on Front Wheel Drive Vehicles-Remove Most Vehicles’ Half-Shaft Drive Axles-Fix Damaged CV Joints

https://www.amazon.com/Sunluway-Veh...29878203&sprefix=axle+pry,aps,166&sr=8-3&th=1