2nd Gen Eibach Toytec Gallery thread

What brand of diff drop you got mine hit the brackets and the diff I would almost need 3/4 to an inch of space I was gonna get 1" square tube and cut it and drill I hole threw it and get longer bolt did you have to get longer bolts wouldn't happen I remember what size

 

I think it was toytec diff drop . I didn't have to get new bolts .

 

That's the same diff drop I have it's like 1" spacers I'm thinking I'm gonna need 1" spacers on this skid if I wanna put the drop back in

 

subd

 

Anyone mind taking a picture of their front and rear lower control arm eccentric positions? I just got mine back together and my alignment is so messed up I am afraid to drive it to the shop, just want to get it %50 right compared with where it is now, still going to take it to the shop, since all trucks are different.

I have a 4x4 DC with my 5100s set at .85 with eibachs. and my wheels like like: \---/, so it is scary as fuck to drive.


ETA: Also, depending on how it looks after it is aligned, I may do a 1/2 diff drop kit, and just put some grade 8 washers in there and drop it a 1/2" instead of the full 1", since I am only doing ~2.25" of lift no the full 3" and see how it looks.

 

Eibach/bilstein 5100 with .5 top spacer (toytec lift 3") 1.5 AAL rear, Nitto Terra Grappler 325/60/18 (33-34"s), cab mount chop required, bumper trimming, until winch bumper came in.
I'll try to get better pics, been raining last few days when I get home.

 

If you grab more pictures tonight, can you take some of your eccentric positions for me?

 

Sorry didn't see this till now, and its almost 10pm. I;ll snap some tomorrow if you can wait. BTW, +1 on the effed up alignment after install. I had my buddy do it who is the head mechanic at the biggest trucking company in my county and when he finished he brought it to Ford, they have a contract with the local ford for alignment and he said it was scary as shiz driving that thing just the 5 miles to Ford. And if he had to do it again he'd have it flatbeded to ford instead of driving it it was so scary! So, be careful!

 

LOL, that was me too, I drove mine out of my driveway and about 50 yards and just put it on the side of the house, and grabbed my other car and went to work. After I posted the above I went back out and just guessed at adjusting the eccentrics, got it about 25% closer, but that made it drivable at 40 mph for the 10 mile drive to the shop, was super careful. Got it back last night and it is nicely aligned now, need to get some pictures of mine now.

When I turned the wheel off center even a little, the wheels just whipped all the way to lock because of how bad the alignment was.

Did you put new UCAs in with yours?

 

Anyone running front wheel spacers with their 5100s and eibachs at .85? I am thinking about running 1.25" wheel spacers in the front only with this setup, wondering if that will look weird or more normal. I dont want my wheel to pop out the side, but I also want to go to a bigger tire soon on my factory wheels, so the BS might help. Pictures would be great.

 

Toytec ultimate kit with LR uca's, extended travel billys in the rear with OME Dekar leaf packs.

 

Just got my 3" Billstein/Eibach combo in the mail today with the 2" AAL. Debating on if I want to put them on soon or wait till I get bigger tires in about a month or 2, hmm....

 

Billies at .85 with top plate spacers, LR UCAs, diff drop, carrier bearing drop, AAL, 285/70/17 Nitto Terra Grapplers
before:

after:

 

Comparison photo:

My Taco on the left with 5100's @ .85", Eibachs, 3/4" driver side spacer, 1/4" passenger side spacer, LR UCA's, 265/75/16... Next to Jerretxx's 3" pro-comp lift with 285's.

 

Bilstein 5100s all around, Front set to 2.5" lift on stock coils, and a 2" Toytec AAL on non-tsb springs.


Pic of the painted coils and shocks.

 

^ Nice. What did you paint the coils with?

 

x2, looks great.

 

Duplicitous metal cast. U need the ground coat for non metal surface which is basically a metallic silver

 

So if I wanted to paint mine green I would just lay down the Duplicitous metal cast down first?

 

The metal cast has different colors. Green blue red etc. but for non shinyetals you'll need a ground coat which allows the color coat to show. So you'll need the ground coat and a color coat. Because the color coat is essentially a clear coat with a color tint.