2TR-FE Performance Thread

Ill keep you posted for sure!

 

ARP studs in, time to put it all back together

 

Did you end up chasing the threads and if so how did you collect the chips or did you just send it with out chasing?

 

I chased the threads. I used a harbor freight 1/4” drive 8” extension and welded it to the tap/chaser. Then i greased the chaser with lucas red n tacky and chased the threads 3 times per bolt hole. Cleaned off the greased after the first pass and then just ran the chaser dry the second two passes. Cleaned the chaser off each time with a paper towel between passes.

 

Got it all put back together a little bit ago. Turned it on and all is well so it looks like i got it timed right. Timing chain & exhaust cam gear were a little tough to get on but i finally managed to get it on. Ill know tomorrow after i drive to work if its going to self heal or still puke everywhere lol

Last pic before the phone died

 

Thats the way i was taught in aviation Mech school.... i just got WTF when i see people use oil or no lube.

 

I saw it on roadkill, but it sounds like they know their stuff if you learned it in aviaton mech school

 

How are the post drive to work results?

 

Too soon to say i believe.. It looks like it may have stopped, but i am not 100% sure. I'll know for sure mid week

 

Just drove it on the hwy on my lunch and it still pukes everywhere so that was a waste of time. Head gasket replacement may be the next step

 

Not completely. You learned how to do that job.

Now you can do it a little more quickly.

Very likely that the damage was already done.

Also, the heat cycles will get a little more stretch out of the studs. I bet at this point they may torque again ever so slightly.

As a side note. When I get new studs, I boil them in a plastic bag, to give them one heat cycle prior to being installed.

 

Yeah good call, it was a great learning experience, i guess im just disappointed i get to battle it some more lol.

I would have to agree, looks like the gasket was already damaged and torqueing it wasnt gonna help.

That's interesting to know about the studs stretching more after heat cycling. I will make note of that little trick for future reference.

 

You won't need to worry about it now. They have a few heat cycles already.

 

Great tips in here today, I love to see it. Sorry the HG is no good Robert. Hopefully once that is replaced the arp studs will hold a new one down nice and strong.

 

High capacity overflow reservoir installed

 

I may know of where there's a 2tr motor sitting... all I know is bad headgasket and possibly overheated. I was thinking of grabbing it to scavenge the cams and maybe the head off of if it passes a flat bar check.

 

Ha! Looks like when I was using an orange juice bottle to do the same. Before I made my own.

 

Does anyone know if when having the 2TR-FE cylinder head milled to make it perfectly flat again, if you need to add back the thickness that was removed to the head gasket? I am thinking about using an OEM head gasket on mine but im not sure how that'd work after having it milled down. I remember reading that the 4.0 requires you add back to the gasket the amount removed or the timing is off ever so slightly. Any info would be appreciated, i read the FSM but didnt find anything related to this

Also curious if it's required to have the block milled too or if just the cylinder head will suffice? the truck has never been overheated if that makes any difference

 

That depends on the block. Yours is iron, so it will handle the temps much better. It can be perfectly fine, whereas the head could get warped.

Unrelated. Looks the the header design on a 2019 is a little different than that of the earlier models.

 

Interesting, thanks for the info. So do you know if the gasket thickness would need to account for the amount milled off?

Sounds like iteration two of your future turbo header may be necessary.. Is the flange different, or is it something relating to the SAI junk or something else? You've got me curious now