2TR-FE Performance Thread

-3AN to 10 x1.0 inverted flare, I believe.

A flare nut wrench to break it loose. The a regular wrench to get it the rest of the way. Possibly even the small pair of Kipex parallel pliers. Been a while and don't remember the exact tools used.

 

That helps greatly, thank you!
Those flat Knipex pliers are great for an and brake line fittings my buddy showed me that and I was like damn! I gotta get me a set of them.

 

They have a few lengths. I only have the large set. The small set would be super handy too.

 

Thank you sir. Its a funky color but I dig it.

I do have a speedo calibrator but it doesn't help me as it's calibrated for 4.88s and 33s still. Haha at 40 mph, it's dead on. But by 75 mph, it's 5 mph off. If I set my cruise control, it's usually to 70-72 mph on my speedo which means I'm doing 75-78 according to GPS and other vehicles beside me. And yeah, 2800 at 65 mph is far from ideal. Probably puts you at 3200 at 75. To me, while I'm on the highway, the best powerband from the motor is between 3k and 4500 rpms. So power wise, it feels better when I'm doing 80 mph then 70 mph but I get a few mpg worse and the motor feels like it's working a lot harder. I could be wrong on paper, I'm just going off how my truck drives and sounds.

 

Sorry didn’t see this one, but it’s 3” of body lift. I have like 6” total in the front and 4” in the back

 

Ya I suppose the 5.29s are pretty low just to be running 33s but I guess I went big or went home or somethin lol. I was back n forth on the 4.88 n 5.29 thing and a rep from Yukon made the comment on the phone that my trucks 5th gear ratio was .71 and that I’d be doin 2600 rpm @70mph. So I bought the 5.29s lol. Next morning when I had a break from work and school I did my homework and realized that my 5th gear was .81 lol. I called up ecgs and told em my concerns but they were saying it wasn’t going to be that bad but that they’d return the gears on my dime. Which ultimately I wouldn’t have cared but in the end I liked the idea of being torquey so I just went the 5.29s n said fu&@ it lol. Otherwise I’d have lrobly ordered 4.88

 

The updated toyota part (12+) vs the stock 08 clutch master cylinder:



As you can see the pivot point that rides on the clutch is larger, how ever it seated in fine.


On a side note, I had to take it back to toyota. I spent all day trying to bleed the stupid pos. I didn’t want to tow my shtbox home from work so I put the old one in and it ended up bleeding fine. Hopefully the replacement I get tomorrow will bleed ok. I also got a new slave cylinder since in the middle of the day I thought maybe that was what was wrong.

That was a nasty job trying to get the flare fitting in, I now fully understand why you switched to AN @Torspd

 

That wrist scar is a symbol of how I felt, fighting with that bastard. Lol. Suicidal.

 

Any suggestions of go fast bits for the r155 before I slap this one in? Should hopefully be able to shift into 3rd with out having to double clutch and be able to downshift with out grinding

 

I have lce headers and Magnaflow muffler welded on with axle dump. It’s not raspy and sounds a lot better than a lot of other 2.7 mufflers I’ve heard. As long as you get a quality muffler you should be golden

 

Right on... thats what I might end up doing

 

I could send a few sound clips but I guess file size is too big

 

You can try it. I don't know if you can honestly I know videos have to be from YouTube or something I think

 

Wouldn’t let me.. if you have Instagram I can send you some @that_ogle_boy

 

Exact setup I have, maybe a different muffler is all. I've got sound clips of the muffler only on my YT, but I don't think I did one with header too.

 

What year model did that come out of?

I know the Supra guys have been buying up the transmissions from 2016 or 2017, 2TR. Or maybe more recent. Which ever was the latest model with a manual, before they discontinued it. As they are effectively upgraded Supra transmissions.

 

You can swap Supra r154 billet shift forks and a couple other high dollar bits into it.

 

I did once but I don't remember any about it anymore lol

 

That one came out of a 2014. Interesting, I thought the only difference between the r155 and r156 was 1st and 5th gear ratio, or did they upgrade other parts? That would make sense though since I did look and couldn't find any out of a 16 or 17.

Hmm I think Marlin Crawler sells those shift forks. I may have to look into that, I didn't know they fit the r155.


Also, final update on the new updated master cylinder part number. I ended up swapping the clevis. If you choose not to, you need to adjust it further onto the rod than your older style since it is longer. Another question I have to ask you guys with manuals, when you have the clutch on the floor and start pulling back when does it start to engage the clutch? I think my adjustment is off since it has to come pretty high off the floor before anything starts happening. I am happy to report the new master/slave is working much better than before. I can actually shift now and not get jerked around. Before it was like an on/off switch which I thought was just because of the lce clutch.

 

I know @BassAckwards and I were debating whether the clutch Masters hydraulic bearing for the r154 would work for the r155 since they appear nearly identical. Debating testing it out until a few members seemed to have been left high and dry after they had leaking problems for their 4.0 kits. But just throwing a potential part out there