2TR-FE Performance Thread

That would be so dope. But i doubt the market would be big enough haha.

 

Going to be either URD s/c, or a turbo kit.

 

Damn I missed that post. But is that done w/ intake manifold spacer 2tr to 3rz adapter? So it has been 100% done? I was really looking into that

 

I am not sure on how it all bolts up, i just remember seeing that post a while back.. i wish we had more info

 

thanks for the the response! bummer... hopefully somebody releases that tune soon but judging by how people have been asking for it for years I won’t hold my breath. I’ll have to check out those LCE upgrades. And I certainly would have gone with a manual if I had the choice, but I was offered a deal I couldn’t pass up on this one. These pre-2016 single cab work trucks are getting hard to find. At the end of the day the name of the game is frugality, which is why I was looking for a tune to start with. You can feel when you drive it that it’s tuned for economy and not performance. Like coming from 2nd to 3rd gear I have to hold it at 2k rpm for a good 5-10 seconds before it downshifts. I know with different timing on the transmission and a more responsive gas pedal this thing would be a different truck. I guess I might need to start looking into the costs of a manual conversion but I have a good feeling that’ll be out of my budget. Thanks again for the response!

 

Might be smoke n mirrors and full of shit...but you could try pulling the battery for about an hour, let the ECU and all the other nanny brains in the truck drain. Button it all back together and drive it like you stole it. Just maybe the ECU will relearn and slightly change. Probably not.

 

Well that is something.... non intercooled correct?

 

It does a little.

 

If only it were so simple with my FUBAR TOB

 

That's what it looks like to me, but i dont know for sure. It looks like a nice low boost option for some much needed torque though

When i spoke with LCE a while back they told me they were working on a kit that uses the newest version of the Eaton m62

 

As expected, LCE and Clutch Masters won't warranty anything. 90 days was all I had which ended 2018 roughly, and that's completely fine. I asked for some advice from LCE and they didn't ask for any great details, should've called but figured I'd try their chat feature . Clutch Masters seemed to give zero fucks about what I had to say and also didn't seek any details. I was absolutely not asking for warranty or any free shit and my wording didn't elude to that.

Anyway, they did suggest getting a complete clutch kit in case things are worse than I think. What other clutch kit is available that are still streetable for less than $400? I may just buy one from Rock Auto
Need one to handle my weak AF "performance" mods, 35s, and 4.88 gears.

 

For $400? Southbend's stage 1 HD clutch is $380
https://www.southbendclutch.com/clutches/KTY16-HD-7038/

Edit: one of my coworkers had this clutch in his old Tacoma and said he loved it, that it was still very street friendly. I'm getting one based on his real world use and recommendation.

 

Well fuckin tickle my pickle and call me Elmer! They've actually got semi-local dealers to me, too! What. The. Actual.

 

I listed up some 348cc injectors in the for sale area if anyone is interested. They are flow matched Toyota injectors that I was going to try with a supercharger on my truck, but I ended up selling the truck.

 

Tempting, but I think I'm going bigger right off the bat with 750's

 

Think I'll just go back to OEM clutch, Aisin or Luk. Probably Aisin. Asking them what the difference is between the CKT-065 and CKT-073, since the PN changes based on the facelift year of 2012/2013. Also considering Phoenix Friction's option. https://www.phoenixfriction.com/p-24105-16-204-clutch-kit-toyota-tacoma-l4-27l-9-78-in.aspx

I truly don't think I need a stage-1 or better clutch. And if I'm gonna break over the $300+ threshold for a clutch kit, I better not be replacing it again after only 40k miles. I'm a better driver now off-road, and along with the gears and locker, shouldn't smoke an OEM clutch as bad as I was before. Easier on DDing I'd think too.

 

So I'm creeping on 100k miles, anything at the back of the engine I could preemptively do when I change the clutch?

I feel like someone mentioned something when I did it at 65k the first round, but no friggin clue what it was now. (don't feel like searching my own posts )

 

Rear main seal 90311-88006

 

Pilot bearing wouldnt be a bad idea either since you have it all apart