2TR-FE Performance Thread

Well I’m sure about 90% of you know what’s *hopefully* coming down the pipeline. As of 8-9-21 the truck is still at the Tuner.

I didn’t really put the truck thru it’s paces but I did try to put it thru all types of scenarios. I’m betting they did on the Dyno. (Jesus they should have because they went thru over a half tank of fuel tuning it the first time) I mainly just did DD throttle applications. I found that the truck would stumble @ approx 4000 RPMs with steady light throttle. The tuner on the Dyno can not duplicate it but off the Dyno it rears it’s ugly head. They definitely want to get it figured out.

One reason it’s taking so long is I told the manager of the tuning shop to take your time with it because I have another truck & I see you’re swamped with high dollar vehicles. I told him I can only Imagine how some of these owners must get if there vehicles aren’t done in time. He was very appreciative.
@Silver_Back was the very first but his truck had electrical gremlins. So the tuner didn’t want to copy the tune. I’m pretty sure that’s why the LCE GM wanted my truck. When I told the LCE GM what I had just purchased. An unmolested 07 w/ 27k, Reg cab 5 lug w/ a stick. “He said don’t touch it I want it?” I knew about the development of the new system so I volunteered the 07 as a Guinea pig.

Does or has anyone seen a Dyno of the base Rotrex system on a stock truck? We are thinking that the Rotrex with the massive intercooler is going to put out more Peak HP. Owning both I will say the Magnuson comes on a lot more linear. The torque fills like it comes on sooner. The truck that had the Rotrex had a LCE header, the 2nd cat was deleted and replaced w/ an 5 x 8 x 14 Magnaflow (for sound) w/ a 5 x 11 x 22 Magnaflow & 2.5” out the OE location. The biggest thing was the gear swap from 3.31 to 3.73 w/ 28.5” rubber. @ 70 mph I’m running an 150 more RPMs.Other then the FI and StopTech’s gears are the best bang for the buck.

Here’s a teaser for the Magnuson and remember this on a unmolested stock truck.

 

My truck still has electrical gremlins!!! It sucks.

 

Crank scrapers and windage trays have been around for a long time. was really big during the V8 hot rod days. It was a well known way to scavenge up to 25hp on an average mild build V8 between the two components, 1)windage tray 2)crank scraper. On the 2TRFE and on some other Toyota platforms the aluminum mid pan is an effective windage tray, which like it sounds prevents the swirling wind of the bottom end Crank/Rods from either foaming the oil in the pan or simply pushing it up into the block and totally out of the oil pan, it provides a layer of protection that helps keep the oil in the bottom end near the pickup tube. 2) Crank scraper is likewise a tool used to remove the residual oil that is clinging to the crank and rod ends after its been sprayed from piston cooling jets and on cylinder walls through the rings, main/rod bearings, it is surprisingly a lot of oil. All that oil when dumped into a air swirl to an extent stays suspended in the blender once the blender reaches ludicrous speed lol. The scraper rides very close to the rotating mass and effectively peels away the excess and drains it back to the oil pan and underneath the windage tray to be returned to the oil system. Both items together keep oil that ends up floating in the cloud or vortex around the crank to a minimum. Why is that important? The oil droplets floating in the cloud now create an obstacle in the path of the crank, think of it like rain on a windshield, not a big deal doing 60 mph. But what kind of impact does a rain drop have at 200mph... much different story. The oil floating in the air like fog actually amounts to a sizeable amount of friction that the crank has to overpower and push through which in turn creates heat. All types of friction is eventually turned into heat. So lowering the natural friction of the lower end lowers the operating temp not only of the oil but also the parts exhibiting the load to push through it which can be seen in testimonials of similar products on various manufactures not just on our 4 bangers. Primarily the Benefit has its peak results at higher RPM. But as the designer of the specific model i posted informed me the friction begins as low as 2800 rpm. So definitely not a torque adder, but absolutely will show up on your peak HP dyno and your oil temps. For me.. cooling seems to be one of the perks on the type of build most of the 2TR guys are gonna be doing, squeezing all the power we can comes at a cost. pulling timing to add boost for example to fight detonation, for me it may be a small add but if i can cool the entire engine by reducing the oil temp under high RPM the components are physically colder, and knock will be less likely to occur and a worthwhile benefit to me for widening the margin on the tune. Same principle to LC engineering making their exhaust valve out of a material that doesn't absorb the heat from the exhaust stroke as much as a stock valve does, actually helps push detonation off by removing 2 potential hot spots(exhaust valves) in the cylinder. Hope that helps.

cool info here http://blog.cantonracingproducts.com/blog/windage-how-it-affects-your-motor

 

@Sscustoms
Sir I’m very new to this tread and I fully understand why you are trying to make the 2TR out perform high performance cars. But with your knowledge have you ever thought of an LS swap? I’m ready for


It is hard to argue with the cheap HP & TQ that GM hunk of aluminum & steel makes. Fix the oiling issue, make it breathe with the proper parts and get 400 plus HP to the ground and 29 mpg gallon.
An gentleman who I was going to have install an LS in our 5 lug has an S10 with an clean running LS1 & a Tremec. He also has a long travel LS powdered sandrail. He needed to make a quick trip to the dunes for testing. So he hook up the trailer and buggy. With cruise set at 5 to 10 above the limit he went to the dunes and back. He averaged 27 mpg on regular pump.
Now I really like the Toyota dependability as much as the next person but it is REALLY hard to argue with these numbers.
The only reason I went FI over having a LS installed was the cost to me as I don’t have the tools and or SKILLS to do an engine swap.
From reading your posts I would say it should be a piece of cake for someone with your skills. My apologies but when I was much younger I had a Ford from the factory that came with a I4, V6 or V8. I was set on dumping every penny I made into it. My father was an Auto Body Man and Mechanic. Dad was going to build a little mid engine hunting buggy. He had a built 289 and said we can pull the 2.0L out your car and install the 289 and use the 2.0L in the hunting buggy. He then said the first ticket you get you’re WALKING understand⁉️

 

lol your not wrong with any of that. I’ve done engine swaps. They are a great option. I’ve owned custom rigs that i need a binder to remind me what year/make my swapped parts came off off for when a certain part has to be ordered to replace or service the Chevy/ford components i swapped dont show up on the local auto parts store listing. That got tiring for me. Something rings nice about having factory stuff that makes life easy. That’s a big reason for me. Although complicated and hella expensive to achieve the end result its still a better option for me. A build with a minimal of custom one off conversion parts is easier to repair on trail or send your buddy to the parts store when your 40miles in the woods on your favorite trail. (Its a2007 toyota but don’t tell them that, Tell them it only came on a base model 2500HD from 2004-2005 with a factory tow package and a v6, otherwise it won’t fit) lol. For me i already own a nice toyota base drive train and weight is a functional part of my build that allows me to run 35s @2psi and float on the snow with my buddies on their 40s and heavy rigs. Im pretty careful about adding weight i can avoid. I also don’t like the size of the trans that would make it an easy LS swap. Toyota stuff is small and stout especially for the target HP range in im.

But besides that i suppose it probly the same reason people exist that make a life long obsession with collecting wheat pennies. Its just something they do

 

Ok sorry buddy but I had to ask. But isn’t the R155 & R155F the same trans as the Supra trans guys are running BIG HP thru? I just read that the only issue is that they need better venting for anything over 450 to 500 otherwise they start leaking out the rear seal. And 5 speed Tremec’s don’t weight that much plus I’m betting an Alloy block LS is lighter than the 2TR. The alloy block is 109 lbs and I *think* I read a complete running LS comes in @ 529 lbs.
I really like to have a strong 5.3 / 327 alloy block mated to the R155. CSF makes a duel core that’s plug & play for cooling. Motor mounts should be easier with all the kits available. The hardest part would be the wiring but I read the LS only needs a few relays and something like four wires to make it run.
Man I would die for 350+ & 350+ to the ground.
The kit that’s in our 07 is great but I’m worried about the head gasket now as it gets up there at the very top end. Also be nice to figure out how to get filtered air from the cowl and someway to cool the boost in the Magnuson.
Oh, have you had the shaft in the Rotrex snap yet?

 

The 1990-1993 MK3 Supras had an R154 transmission, which mates up to the R155F. This is why you can get a billet gearset for the R154 and drop it into our trans.

 

not yet, ill cross that bridge when i get there. It sounds like its a feature of the party. Yea LS is its own thing. It has big benefits. But if its the end all of everything it wouldnt be any fun drag racing. If we all drive the same cookie cutter we lose the unique factor that comes with a oem build. I dont disagree with anything you said. Been plenty of times people are blown away with what a stock 2.7 does on the sand. Plenty of support to swap an LS into anything you can imagine, Volkswagen rabbit maybe, possibilities are endless. But it doesnt float my boat or tickle my pickle. if i start snapping rotrex shafts and blowing turbos, i might be swayed but probly not, id just do a nasty N/A build on the 2TR.

 

I've been tossing around the idea of a 13:1 build on one of the spare motors I have. Kinda curious to see how far you can push the 2tr n/a.

 

Hmmm… You keep bringing up sand, are you a duner? And may I ask whereabouts are you located if you don’t mind?

 

Oregon Willamette valley. Ive got lots of dunes snow for wheeling. I ride dirtbikes but the truck is my night time duner.

Once i saw how far 4piston racing can push their honda builds… holy crap N/A freaking monsters made over their with tiny little blocks. I cant find the video, but i watched a few pulls on the strip of it and it flat blows my 4cyl expectations out of the water. They are making more power N/A than i will be boosted
https://www.enginelabs.com/news/video-4-piston-racing-builds-a-500-hp-naturally-aspirated-k24/

 

Far as cooling for our baby motors; I know LCE offered a fan and radiator setup not too long ago, all I see know is the flex fan on their site. Been roughly a year-ish since I saw the whole kit.

Anyone know what changed that? Can they not source the rad or was it deemed poo poo?

 

The 2TR can use the CSF radiator for the 1GR.
Another option for a fan setup, if you don’t mind being shroudless, you could mount it straight to the radiator. With something like this.

https://www.spalusa.com/products/fans/fan_accessories/

or this




and https://www.condorspeedshop.com/collections/spal/products/spal-16-wiring-kit

 

You don’t need a bigger radiator and if you have over heating issues there’s something else wrong! Here’s a big radiator below. I’m still thinking about having an 5.3 or LS1 swap. The tuner finally concord the Toyota ECU for the Magnuson supercharger system on my 2TR. The bypass valve was acting up causing all kinds of issues for the tuner. Magnuson keeps pushing back the date to the vendor for the superchargers…
Part No: CSF #7092 Year(s): 2005 – 2015 (2.7L & 4.0L)

 

CFS makes a direct replacement for the 2TR-FE radiator and I can confirm it works with the LCE's kit. Due to the CFS radiator being closer to the engine, the top radiator cover's fasteners don't align but that's not the end of the world.

 

I can't run the shroud with their fan anyway, I don't think. I just liked their idea of losing that rotating mass of the clutch style fan

 

I'm not necessarily wanting to replace the rad, but if the kit was still sold as whole, then I'd go for it. Just looking to get more ponies while staying NA and decreasing weight, with 35s

 

Found it lol. This gents is what happens to a stock rod with 9 ish pounds of boost on a dead pull. No signs of oil loss or starvation. No sign of detonation on the face of the piston, legit straight up rod failure. No other rods were harmed in the making of this party favor. My guess is the rod was on the verge power wise and it had a small inclusion in the casting

 

Was this on your engine? What turbo setup? Have any pictures?

How badly damaged is the block?

 

This is my personal truck. This is the Rotrex kit with 80mm pulley. Block is toast, part of it i never found. Appx 2”x 6” chunk of the cast block is missing under the drivers side engine mount. It also took out the mid pan the same 6-8” window and bent the oil pan lip. Other than the one spot the block looked ok. Still not 100% tore down. The wrist pin is apparenty on the hwy where it blew up. Its MIA. The piston was pushed down by the boost and tried to go into the meat grinder(crank) which ground all the skirts and bottom side off leaving only the top casting of the piston.