2TR-FE Performance Thread

There are some goodies

Transmission upgrades:
- Transgo shift kit for A340E/A340F
- Transgo reprogramming kitA340E/A340F
- IPT Valve Body Upgrade Service A340E/A340F
- IPT Upgraded Performance Rebuild Kit
- IPT high stall torque converter upgrade service
- IPT Upgraded Performance A340E/A340F

 

Yeah I don’t really have big tires my truck is dropped on x runner wheels factory tire size was 215/75/15 now I have 255/45/18 and I got intake and exhaust just need something more to get off the line harder

 

Cause once I hit 2nd gear it just falls on its face

 

The Grimmjeeper gear calculator is a good tool to see how many RPMs youll be turning at a given speed. Your trans is an A340 if you want to plug that in and play around with the different ratios you're considering.

http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html

 

What rear ration does yours have?

Without looking at the gear calculator, I am betting the 3.73:1 would be perfect for yours. Definitely study the gear calculator though.

*Edit* Per Hayrider. The XR's came with a 3.15:1.

 

All 05-15 Tacoma’s
The 5 lug 4.0 XR manual 6 spd has 3.15 from the factory.
The 5 lug 2.7 manual 5 spd has 3.31. “. “. “. (These two carriers/3rd members can not be re-geared)
The 5 lug 2.7 auto has a 3.58
The 6 lug 4.0 everything has a 3.73
The 6 lug 2.7 everything has a 4.10
Don’t know why the 5 lug 2.7 manual & auto have different gears and the 6 lugs 2.7 don’t? You would think they would?
Here’s a photo of the the 8.4 (actually 8. 2.5”) This came in SOME 1st Gen Tacoma’s, 1st Gen Tundra & Sequoia, T-100 and all 2nd Gen Tacoma’s.
Edit I have a 3.58 w/ 101k & 3.73 w/ 118k (I was told) for sale.

 

3.58

 

That's right. 3.15

 

Does anyone in here that has a boosted 2TR-FE and is running the MAPECU3 with 550cc injectors have a base map they'd be willing to share? I am thinking about swapping mine in this weekend and retuning, but wanted to check and see before i rework one the one that i have. I dont think you can attach .tbl files here, but a ZIP file works like i have on the OP.

 

Ok guys, I'm thinking it's about time to do a rebuild for performance, but I have some questions, my engine is at about 180k and it's consuming a huge amount of oil at this point maybe more than 1.5 qt every 1000 miles. I can't find any leaks at all and my leak down test was done at a Toyota dealership they said it was good. Question is should I rebuild the engine I have now, get it machined and put in forged internals or should I find a newer engine and start with that? Any advise would be appreciated.

 

If you can afford to have the truck down, i would build what youve got since you know the condition and that it’s been well maintained.

 

Rebuild what you've got. Obviously have the block and head resurfaced, and probably go to a bigger bore size. New bearings and crank polished, you've pretty much got a new engine at that point, that you know the history of.

 

Okay so this might be a silly question but I'm not sure I'd really like to acquire all the parts before I undertake this process because I don't want my truck to be off the street for too long, can I have the piston heads made prior to me taking everything apart and get the engine block machined to that size specifically or should I get the block machine first and then have pistons made? I'm definitely ready to start collecting everything needed. I just don't want to do things in the wrong order

 

Junk or what lol?
https://youtu.be/gdOoF5E1T_c

https://youtu.be/cR0QddZEcP0

 

You order the pistons (not piston heads) to the size that you want. Then the machine shop bores, or heavy hones, the cylinders to match.

 

What’s the issue, because it’s red? I would take this system over the Rotrex any day‼️ It took me hours just to get the clamps to stay on the charge tube for the Rotrex. I had to keep massaging the fitment of the charge tube to fit when if it was just a 1/2” longer it would have just bolted in place.
Plus the Magnuson system I have doesn’t have an intercooler when this one does. Looks really well though out to me. Very nice packaging. But I don’t know crap so, ¯\_(ツ)_/¯.

 

Speaking of roots charging, I got to drive the truck that I installed the turbo on. I am used to larger turbos that have the definitive "lag" time then power climb, and roller coaster feel of being pushed into the seat feel.

Let me emphasize how impressed I was at the matching of the Borg Warner EFR 6758, on that 2TR-FE. It was a mental dance debate between it feeling like "OEM" response, or is it just a larger engine. Roots style performance. Couldn't tell that the turbo was "there". It just went and kept went-ing.

With stock gearing, 4.11, and all of that weight, it was sooo much easier to accelerate from a dead stop. Where as before, it was a clutch dance.

 

Why dont you message them

 

Yeah I remember when that toolbag hx989 or whoever it was was calling BS that we can hit 5+psi by 2000rpm. Like- no dude, I'm serious, it drives like stock and spools stupid fast! Never have to feather the clutch, and can get on it way down low and it'll get out of its own way finally.

It looks like the 6758 is real similar to my 3071R, too.

Side note- I wish we had a V-Band in, V-Band out option for manifold and downpipes! I'd switch out my turbine housing so fast lol

 

Glad someone else knows, to validate what I experienced!

That wouldn't be toooo hard to swap over to a v-band flange inlet. Just need to massage a cone reducer to fit the merge of the T25. Especially since you wouldn't be relocating your turbo. Just changing out the flange.

As a note of interest on that. The Alibaba manifold that I purchased, I found when trying to weld to it, there were a TON of impurities in the flange. The T25 flange. It was actually resistant to taking filler for a little bit and was popping.

Maybe their filler is full of the same impurities, so it welds better? Lol